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vacuum line connects


Andre1150

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hi all.. just a random question for the group.. I'm finishing a canisterectomy per Chris Harris' video on youtube. Am i seeing what I'm seeing.. that both throttle bodies are connected by a vacuum line and otherwise, that line goes only to the charcoal canister and from there to the tank.. if I cut out the canister, I plug the vacuum line and that leaves just a single vacuum line from one throttle body to the other.

 

right?

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As I recall the video, Chris does not remove the line from the purge valve, to the T. Nor does he remove the line connecting the TBs. He just plugs the line once where he removed the valve.

 

I never really got this? Unless you may want to re-install the canister at a later date, why not just remove all the lines and cap each of the TBs? That may have happened on my RT. :S

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Stan Walker

if I cut out the canister, I plug the vacuum line and that leaves just a single vacuum line from one throttle body to the other.

 

Don't plug the line from the tank that used to go to the charcoal canister. That needs to be open to allow air to enter the tank to make up for the gas you consume. It also acts as an overflow gas drain. It should be routed such that it dangles down with all the other drain lines on the right side of the bike.

 

Per dirt-rider this new drain line should be cut at a 45 degree angle to prevent the sucking of water up into the tank.

 

Stan

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Stan Walker

He just plugs the line once where he removed the valve. I never really got this?

 

1) It's easy. I just found an old sheet metal screw in a junk drawer and plugged the line after the tee.

 

2) It's cheap. No rubber caps to find and buy.

 

3) It will last forever unlike some of the rubber caps from auto parts stores that fail every few years.

 

4) It might even help your bike run the teeniest little bit smoother.

 

Stan

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yeah, I left the tank vent open.

but the tee that's plugged just goes to both throttle bodies. does the vacuum do anything?

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He just plugs the line once where he removed the valve. I never really got this?

 

1) It's easy. I just found an old sheet metal screw in a junk drawer and plugged the line after the tee. True, I heard about jamming a golf tee in there as well.

 

2) It's cheap. No rubber caps to find and buy. True again, but we're talking about 4 bucks, for the BMW ones.

 

3) It will last forever unlike some of the rubber caps from auto parts stores that fail every few years. True still, if you try the ones from Lowes. The OEM's don't come off...at least not yet.

 

4) It might even help your bike run the teeniest little bit smoother. Ok, now you're pushing it. ;)

 

Stan

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hi all.. just a random question for the group.. I'm finishing a canisterectomy per Chris Harris' video on youtube. Am i seeing what I'm seeing.. that both throttle bodies are connected by a vacuum line and otherwise, that line goes only to the charcoal canister and from there to the tank.. if I cut out the canister, I plug the vacuum line and that leaves just a single vacuum line from one throttle body to the other.

 

Morning FireKit

 

You can do it that way (basically same as plugging the vacuum nipples at both TB's). It just leaves more hose on the bike to be in the way & look tacky.

 

As far as leaving the crossover hose vs removing & plugging the nipples-- In the countries that don't require a vapor recovery system the bike come from the factory with no crossover hose & the TB nipples plugged. Even on the later 1200 hexhead that bike comes with the evap purge hose hooked to only one side TB (no crossover hose even as new)

 

You can also use the extra hose left over from evap system removal to run remote hose lengths up under the seat (& plug off ends) so you can CHECK TB balance easily any time.

 

 

 

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D.R. says,

"You can also use the extra hose left over from evap system removal to run remote hose lengths up under the seat (& plug off ends) so you can CHECK TB balance easily any time."

 

What a great idea! You would just need two connectors to join the hoses to the synch tool of your choice. But on my RT I would still need to get to the cable adjustment for the "off idle synch".

 

Second edit. Couldnt actually do anything BUT check it without removing the side panels.

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You can also use the extra hose left over from evap system removal to run remote hose lengths up under the seat (& plug off ends) so you can CHECK TB balance easily any time.

 

 

That's a good idea. Too late for me. :thumbsup:

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