R1150RT Spiegler Install

[Bigfish]

Hey Fellas,

I finally did it... ordered a set of Spiegler Lines for Brakes and Clutch.

Bike has 105,000 miles and just being proactive.

 

I've watched enough Youtube Videos to feel comfortable with a self install.

 

Couple concerns before I begin.

#1 introducing air into lines? When doing previous bleeds, it is a no no to let any air into the lines. No doubt, when putting new lines on, the air is going to be everywhere in the system. Is there a special sequence on which lines to install 1st, 2nd, etc?

 

#2 Already have speedbleeders installed. A Youtube video I viewed said to put the speedbleeders on after replacing lines with OEM bleeders. Said something about the check valves in the speedbleeders make pushing air out more difficult.

Will I be able to do this bleed with the SpeedBleeders?

 

Thanks in advance.

[greiffster]

I just did mine a couple of months ago and it was pretty straightforward. It think I just followed the normal sequence with wheel circuits first.

 

I don't know why you'd have problems with the Speedbleeders. If you can't get air through them, what are they for? I have Speedbleeders on the controller and didn't have any problems. Speedbleeders on the wheels seems pointless with the servo pump.

[roger 04 rt]

I just did the job and found it helpful to do one circuit at a time--front control, front wheel, rear control, rear wheel. Refilling the front control circuit was tedious as it took a good bit of pumping to get the air out of the front lever. Other than that just the usual messy job.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Bigfish

 

Speed bleeders are not needed on the 1150 with I-ABS brakes.

 

If you keep them be DARN SURE Tt clean the nipples out above the checks after bleeding or they will corrode up inside & could cause an issue next bleeding.

 

On installing after-- you shouldn't have problems with speed bleeders on the wheel circuits as those are power pumped/power flushed using the servo motors.

 

You might have some issue on the control side as the lines will be COMPLETELY air bound so you might not build enough circuit pressure (due to air compression) to open the speed bleeder checks. If/once you get fluid to flow then the speed bleeders should not be a problem.

 

I will CAUTION you on using speed bleeders on the I-ABS controller-- Be VERY CAREFUL when tightening those as the valve block is easily cracked on the BMW I-ABS system.

[Bigfish]

I will CAUTION you on using speed bleeders on the I-ABS controller-- Be VERY CAREFUL when tightening those as the valve block is easily cracked on the BMW I-ABS system.

 

I never put speedbleeders at the ABS controller. Only have them at wheels and Clutch. Sounds like I'm in good shape.

 

Thanks all for the quick responses. Will be a few days before parts arrive.

[Twinsig]

I just did the job and found it helpful to do one circuit at a time--front control, front wheel, rear control, rear wheel. Refilling the front control circuit was tedious as it took a good bit of pumping to get the air out of the front lever. Other than that just the usual messy job.

 

DITTO on this method!

[RonB001]

Thanks all for the quick responses. Will be a few days before parts arrive.

 

Do you already have an adapter to get fluid into the ABS controller?

 

I used the funnel/rubber stopper combo from McMaster that someone mentioned. They don't carry the rubber stoppers with the hole to fit the funnel anymore, so I had to drill it out to fit. Worked a treat, though.

[Bigfish]

Thanks all for the quick responses. Will be a few days before parts arrive.

 

Do you already have an adapter to get fluid into the ABS controller?

 

I used the funnel/rubber stopper combo from McMaster that someone mentioned. They don't carry the rubber stoppers with the hole to fit the funnel anymore, so I had to drill it out to fit. Worked a treat, though.

 

yes, have done 3 full brake bleeds in the past and have found the rubber stopper funnel to work better than the screw in type.

[Bigfish]

Spieglers arrived yesterday and I plan on installing this weekend.

Already have a question.

Specifically speaking about the R1150rt Kit. Comes with 5 brake lines, 1 "t" connection banjo bolts and crush washers.

No detailed instructions so I'll ask here.

 

Did you guys use the new Banjo Bolts supplied? I kinda like the OEM bolts better.

 

A little confused about the "T" connection. Might make more sense when I pull old lines off.

 

I paired 2 crush washers with every banjo bolt and have 2 washers left over.

Assuming these washers are used when connecting the Male threads into the Female threads on the "T" fitting?

On a dry "test" fit, I screwed the obvious connections into the "T" fitting and even with a crush washer, there is a large distance before the crush washer will make contact. Are these 2 washers supposed to be used w/ the "T".?

When wrenching down, will it make contact?

 

That's it for now. I can take a pic fro visuals if my description did not make sense.

 

Thanks!

[strataj]

Spieglers arrived yesterday and I plan on installing this weekend.

Already have a question.

Specifically speaking about the R1150rt Kit. Comes with 5 brake lines, 1 "t" connection banjo bolts and crush washers.

No detailed instructions so I'll ask here.

 

Did you guys use the new Banjo Bolts supplied? I kinda like the OEM bolts better.

 

A little confused about the "T" connection. Might make more sense when I pull old lines off.

 

I paired 2 crush washers with every banjo bolt and have 2 washers left over.

Assuming these washers are used when connecting the Male threads into the Female threads on the "T" fitting?

On a dry "test" fit, I screwed the obvious connections into the "T" fitting and even with a crush washer, there is a large distance before the crush washer will make contact. Are these 2 washers supposed to be used w/ the "T".?

When wrenching down, will it make contact?

 

That's it for now. I can take a pic fro visuals if my description did not make sense.

 

Thanks!

 

Yes you will need to used the supplied fittings, it replaces the t on the forks. I was happy with it.

 

Jay

[waynerd]

You should need 14 crush washers (for 7 banjo bolt connections). I know this because I wasn't sure they would include the crush washers in the kit, counted them up and ordered them separately...and ended up with double what I needed (or more). If you have more than 14, they sent you spares, which is good in case you realize that you routed a line the over/under instead of under/over (like me), or otherwise need to re-do a connection. Crush washers are not used on the T fitting connections, those just utilize the standard brake line flare feature for sealing.

 

The T fitting is used for splitting the the front line to go to the right and left calipers. On the back side of the right fork there's a T junction on the existing lines. It should be pretty obvious when you take a look at it.

 

Like you, I preferred the original banjo bolts and re-used them.

[greiffster]

A little confused about the "T" connection. Might make more sense when I pull old lines off.

 

I paired 2 crush washers with every banjo bolt and have 2 washers left over.

Assuming these washers are used when connecting the Male threads into the Female threads on the "T" fitting?

On a dry "test" fit, I screwed the obvious connections into the "T" fitting and even with a crush washer, there is a large distance before the crush washer will make contact. Are these 2 washers supposed to be used w/ the "T".?

When wrenching down, will it make contact?

 

The T is for sure at the fork and you will not use crush washers on those fittings. I have exactly 2 washers left from the install I did over the winter. I assumed they were extras.

[Bigfish]

Thanks Guys. I'm feeling a bit more confident now.

[roger 04 rt]

Be patient and have a read through this: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?80994-Speigler-brake-line-failure/page2.

[HH0]

the 2 washers left over were spares in my kit and instructions stated that info.

[Bigfish]

the 2 washers left over were spares in my kit and instructions stated that info.

 

Hmmm, the only instructions I received were the ones written on the back of the packaging. Reverse copy on a black background. The Copy was identical on my 5 brake line kit package as it is on the single clutch line package. Nowhere does it mention 2 extra crush washers. Maybe they forgot to include detailed instructions?

 

[Bigfish]

I didn't get around to doing the lines this weekend, but read up on the brake bleed procedure and also caliper maintenance. I've never touched my calipers, so I will also be thoroughly cleaning and inspecting them too. Probably go to dealership and get the rebuild kits for the calipers. I have been getting much more wear on the inside (non piston) rear pad.