Metal Shavings in Oil

[Chris Ackerman]

After putting a few thousand miles of my own on the'08 RT to bring it up over 30,000, I changed the oil and started in the valve clearance check. I noticed metal shavings in the oil. The link below shows the pan after the oil drained from the right valve cover. I bought it from a dealer in January, but have no warranty. This isn't normal, is it? I read somewhere about something that sounded similar and a bearing failure was suggested. I know the phone picture's not spectacular, but anyone have any thoughts?

oil pan photo

 

The light colored specs in the picture are pieces of metal.

[dirtrider]

Morning Chris

 

Metal shavings in the oil is NOT normal?

 

I really can't tell much from your picture so can't tell you much more.

 

Are you sure your drain pan was clean before starting the job?

 

If the metal shavings came from only one side valve cover then look closely for stripped (or stripping) threads where the valve cover bolts go in.

 

Also check the drain plug threads.

 

You might strain the oil through a coffee filter or paper towel to isolate the metallic shavings from the oil, then see if they stick to a magnet.

 

Then post a new clearer (close up) picture of the metal shavings.

[aggieengineer]

You might consider opening the oil filter to examine any debris caught by the element. Find a shop or a friend with a filter cutter. With a bit of work, they can be opened with shears, but not easy on a filter that small. Worst case, bag it up and mail it to me. I'll open it and send you pictures of anything in there.

[Chris Ackerman]

Looking in the light of morning, it may be a case of a dirty drain pan. The picture attached below shows one piece of metal that I found (could be from anything, I guess), but most of the pieces only looked like metal because they were covered in oil. What I looked at this morning seemed to be mostly pieces of leaves out similar debris. I'll clean the pan thoroughly before opening the other valve cover, and if I don't find more evidence of trouble I'll probably just keep an eye on it next oil change.

 

metal found in oil

[dirtrider]

Morning Chris

 

That piece of metal could be from about anything (even a piece that lodged in the engine during assembly)

 

To be sure you don't have issues down the road (or to get the selling dealer to face deception) you might do as Aggieengineer suggests & cut the oil filter open-- Noting in that = not much worry__ Find lots in the filter element = pending problems that need to be addressed asap.

[TXR1200ST]

as we say in aviation, if you cannot read the serial number on the metal bit, then ignore it. J/K

 

Oil filter is were you go to look for metal. Cut open the filter and see what you have. Without an oil analysis all you are going to do is see if there is metal. If there is, complete an engine oil flush and service. They run the bike for a couple thousand miles and check the filter again. If the bike is still producing metal you have a problem that requires more inspection.

 

 

[6speedTi]

I use magnetic plugs on my 2012RT. My thinking is if something breaks free it is better for it to get attached to the plug instead of running around inside the engine possibly doing more damage over time. Also if something let's go you can see it on the plug. This gives you a heads up something is going on inside your engine. Followed by a oil analysis if it gets to a point of concern. http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/bmwmotorcycles.php

[greiffster]

as we say in aviation, if you cannot read the serial number on the metal bit, then ignore it. J/K

 

Good one.

[Chris Ackerman]

Thanks guys. I'm going to try cutting the filter open today with snips and see if the particles came from inside or outside of the engine. Aggie engineer, I precipitate the offer, but would like to find out if anything's inside right away. I'm planning to ride 500-600 miles this weekend.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Chris

 

Those devils are difficult to cut open without adding additional metal shavings from the surgery.

 

What I usually use is a panel cutter in my air chisel (peels a nice narrow strip out of the case all the way around without adding shavings)

 

If you don't have one your local repair shop or local auto body shop probably does.

[Skywagon]

As others have said, cutting open an oil filter without adding metal is nearly impossible unless you have the tool.

 

I looked at your location and have a suggestion for you. Most small general aviation airports have small maintenance shops there. They have cutters and it takes about 30 seconds to do it. I would find a local small airport, go in and ask them if they would just cut it open for you. Take it in a plastic baggie. I looked on the map, again not familiar with exactly where you are,and it looks like A&M Aviation at Bolingbrook, Il would be able to help you. I suspect for zero dollars.

 

If you decide to do it yourself here are some don'ts....Don't saw, don't dremel, only cut. pull out the cardboard filter and lay it on a table. Inspect each side very carefully for finite metal. Use a magnet to separate magnetic from other.

 

If you really want to know what the metal is there are places where you can send a small sample of the oil and metal and they will tell where it is likely from in your engine.

 

Wish you were closer you could come to my hangar and we could have the filter open before you could ask how did you do that.

[Chris Ackerman]

Aggie, I may send the filter to you after all, unless I find a good cutting solution. I'll proceed with my maintenance and see what can be seen in the filter when you get a chance. I called a half dozen shops and that's not a common tool. Thanks again.

[dirtrider]

Evening Chris

 

Here you go on a homebrew oil filter opening--

 

[Chris Ackerman]

Good call with the airport idea. I called the airport and they sounded glad to help me out. I'll know more by tomorrow.

[aggieengineer]

I had to modify my filter cutter to accommodate the small diameter BMW filter, but I cut open every filter I take off of our vehicles. Only once have I been unpleasantly surprised, and that was an airplane engine. Good for peace of mind.

[mbelectric]

Evening Chris

 

Here you go on a homebrew oil filter opening--

 

 

I'd exercise caution with latex gloves and a slippery oil filter. As you see in the vid, he slips but gets lucky not contacting a metal shard.

 

MB>

[Chris Ackerman]

Good news. The filter is open with nothing unusual inside. The mechanic at JF Aviation in Joliet cut the filter open and explained how to lay out the paper and let it dry. He didn't even charge a penny, either. I'll taje a more thorough look later, but I believe I was just paranoid. My dad said his corolla oil had some stuff like that in it every oil change, and my brother's driving it with no oil usage after ~220k miles, so maybe it was nothing unusual. I'm feeling good about this weekend's riding and appreciative if all the feedback.

[Skywagon]

Glad it worked out. You meet some of the nicest people at the local small airports....Most have some sort of pancake breakfast or other event at least once a month. Go by next time and join them for breakfast. It's where I spend my spare time....

[Chris Ackerman]

Fortunately they didn't charge for the filter cut, as I brought it in for a throttle body synch and service reminder reset and it took a little longer than the person who answered the phone thought it would, so the money will go there. Is 1-1/2 hours shop time about right for the synch and service reset?

[duckbubbles]

I would say no if all they are doing is plugging into the computer. On an RT, if they are actually using a Twinmax or manometer, then removal of the bodywork is required.

 

Frank

[JayJay]

That seems a bit high to me, even with pulling body panels. Around here that's around $160. I can do an entire service including oil, filter, valve check/adjust, and TB sync in an hour and a half. And I'm not a pro.

 

OTOH, a sync without confirming that the valves are within spec is incomplete. But you may be victim of the "flat rate" syndrome. They may have a minimum of 0.5 hours, so 0.5 hours for the service reminder reset (which takes less than five minutes), 0.5 hours for pulling and reinstalling the body panels (20-25 minutes working slow), and 0.5 hours for the TB sync (which can take 10-15 minutes if adjustment is required) may be what you're being charged for. Look to see if they billed those out as separate tasks.

 

JayJay

[Chris Ackerman]

I did the oil and valves, then spent $180 for the throttle synch and maintenance light reset. I was disappointed when I started pulling a panel off to reconnect my extra electrical and realized one screw was missing and one had 1/4" of thread left exposed. They're sending me a couple extra screws, but it's more a matter of me losing confidence in a shop that charges $120 per hour.

 

On my initial oil issue, there are a few tiny metal specs in the filter. My plan is to run the run this 2-3k miles to let any contaminates mix into the current oil and do am early oil change, keeping a good sample to send to Blackstone for analysis. The good oil's expensive, but if that finds a problem or (hopefully) relieves a worry, it's worth an extra oil change to me.