HH0 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Looking for some advice on what to look for on my 02 1150RT. If I forget to raise the kickstand and have the bike in 1st it turns over but will not start. I sometimes forget as my 1100RT won't turn over at all in this situation so I immediately remember to raise the kickstand. If I forget on the 1150RT and hit the starter for just a few seconds, then remember to raise the stand, it turns over but will not start. If I leave it for 15 minutes it will start. The symptoms are just like when you would "flood" a carb on a vehicle. Also after riding the 1150 and stopping, like to get gas, etc, then starting and heading out it starts fine but tends to "hesitate" or "cough" for a short while until I get up to speed or rev it a few times. Just like clearing out a carb vehicle that floods. I recently did a valve adjust and TB sync and it runs just fine once it is running and the symptoms were there before and after the tune. It has a Powermaster? on it that has been one it from the PO so I don't know if that plays any part or not. It has just the very slightest surging that isn't troublesome or noticeable so I am sure that is why the PM was installed. Any ideas on what to look for? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Morning HHO I'm not sure what you have there but that Powermaster would sure be the place that I personally started looking for the problem. Do a Powermaster disconnect, then remove fuse #5 for about 5 minutes, then re-install fuse #5 & do a new TPS relearn. If that doesn't change the problem then at least you have a stock system to deal with for future troubleshooting fueling concerns. To Do a TPS re-learn-- (with choke OFF) *Remove fuse #5 for about 3 minutes, then re-install the fuse. Then *Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine) Then *Without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle twice so that the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position. Then *Switch off the ignition. That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is. Link to comment
HH0 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 thanks for the suggestion. Since the bike goes into the dealer next week for a recall on the alternator wiring (never was performed by the by PO)and the trim is going to be removed, I might just ask them not to reinstall the tupperware and I will then work on it. Would doing a TB reset do any good now with the Powermaster installed? If you think so I could do that now. Do you know if the chain tensioner was/is an issue on the 1150RTs? If so I might just have them do it while it is there and apart. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Afternoon HHO If you ride that bike around with the Tupperware removed either reinstall the screws in the "J" nuts or put small zip ties through the screw holes. Those loose "J" nuts can slide off then fall off on the road. The TB balance (not a re-set) can (sort of) be done now as the fueling really doesn't effect the air flow (what you are balancing) BUT changing the fueling CAN effect idle RPM & adjusting idle RPM's can skew the air flow at idle. You might check the TB balance now & if close just ride the bike as is until the stating/fueling problem is found & repaired. On the chain tensioner?-- (only L/H side) CAN be an issue on the 1150RT as the new design tensioner didn't come out until the 1200 hexhead bikes. Have the dealer look as they can tell if a new or old style L/H tensioner by the size of the tensioner nut. Link to comment
HH0 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 D.R. thanks, what I really meant to ask you was if a TPS reset was worth trying before I remove the Powermaster. I said TB but meant TPS......... Excellent advice on the "J" nuts as I never thought about that. I will have the dealer look at the chain tensioner while there. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 D.R. thanks, what I really meant to ask you was if a TPS reset was worth trying before I remove the Powermaster. I said TB but meant TPS......... Excellent advice on the "J" nuts as I never thought about that. I will have the dealer look at the chain tensioner while there. Afternoon HHO Sure, never hurts to try a simple thing first just to eliminate that from the list. Link to comment
AndyS Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 ... the bike goes into the dealer next week for a recall on the alternator wiring ... Can anyone explain what this is? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 ... the bike goes into the dealer next week for a recall on the alternator wiring ... Can anyone explain what this is? Morning Andy There were a couple of service bulletins (that I know of anyhow) on the 1150 alternator area. One didn't really effect the alternator but effects the HES wire clip just under the alternator. The other was for cable chafe-through at the alternator area -- Technical Action: Alternator cable chafed through: R 1150 R, RT, RS and R 1100 S models fitted with Integral ABS. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX (xxx's added by me) XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX If the connector is badly positioned, the blue cable from the alternator to the charge indicator light can show signs of chafing. In extreme cases a short circuit may result. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX (xxx's added by me) Engine vibrations can cause the cable xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (xxx's added by me) Last vin effected=____R 1150 RT___ ZE 87185 On the VIN meeting this criteria, fit the required edge protector, part number 34 32 2 331 053, to the edge of the bracket holding the IABS control unit. Sorry I can't post the entire bulletin as it is BMW proprietary & I don't have the permissions to do so. (I probably shouldn't have posted this much but it could be a safety concern so there should be enough info here for VIN range ID & problem identification) Link to comment
HH0 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Andy, D.R., if you bike qualifies the cost is zero for the dealer to do it. My VIN doesn't show it as having been done so the dealer ordered the parts and scheduled me in. Link to comment
HH0 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 D.R., question for you. I received the front brake switch I bought on eBay. My bike had the black connector and the one I ordered has the white. Unfortunately you can't plug the white into the black due to a very minor difference in the plugs. I tested the continuity on the new one and moving the switch does change the reading - off shows zero, on shows 1 or incomplete circuit if I understand the test correctly. The one on the bike is stuck on 1 whether the switch is on or off so that would explain the continuously on light but seems backwards to me as zero would indicate a complete circuit wouldn't it? I tried running jumper wires from the new switch plug to the receiving plug on the bike to test the switch but I get no brake light on in either the on or off position. My thought was I would get the light on by using the jumpers. The rear brake switch turns the light on so I know the blub is good. You indicated that the 1150 switches were reversed from the 1100 switches and I thought the black and white plugs might indicate which bike. I am thinking I have an 1150 switch in the new one and therefor the reversed readings. Any suggestions on why the jumpers didn't work? I didn't want to cut and solder the new switch in if something else is wrong. Link to comment
HH0 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Please ignore last post as it is in the wrong thread. sorry for the confusion. Link to comment
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