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2004 r1150rtp rattling noise


scoobydew

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2004 r1150rt-p 34,000 miles.once engine warms up I get a rattle at 4000 rpm and above in any gear did valves&end play no change.sounds like rod knocking only above 4000 rmp.when I pull the clutch lever in just a little it stops.any ideals ? oh and its for sale ? anyone ?

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Morning scoobydew

 

Lots of ideas but without more info from you they are probably are just wild guesses.

 

Very difficult to diagnose an engine noise, or engine rattle, over the internet. As you have found not even that easy when you are leaning over the engine working with the bike.

 

Give us ALL the info on that rattle you can--such as:

 

When did the problem start?

 

Is it once per rev or every other revolution? (ie 1/2 engine speed)?

 

Can you change the noise by lightly playing with the throttle in the knocking RPM range.

 

Any idea of WHERE on the engine the noise is coming from (L/H side, R/H side, etc)?

 

Is the bike still running the stock CCP in the fuse box?

 

Have you tried a full fill up with premium fuel?

 

Is everything on the bike still stock?

 

Have you run a compression test to see if the compression is REAL high due to heavy carbon build up?

 

Are you getting a good solid fuel return flow through the return hose?

 

ANYTHING else you can think of?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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had the bike first of this year always had that sound.use premium fuel.have not checked the compression or fuel flow.when you give gas it stops and let up it stops it just makes that sound when you are cruising.dont know about the fuse box.sound seams like it coming more from the left side.

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had the bike first of this year always had that sound.use premium fuel.have not checked the compression or fuel flow.when you give gas it stops and let up it stops it just makes that sound when you are cruising.dont know about the fuse box.sound seams like it coming more from the left side.

 

Afternoon scoobydew

 

That statement puts a little worry in my voice-- it could still be A LOT of different things but it happening on steady load or throttle float will add in the possibility of your trans input shaft/clutch disk splines starting to become excessively worn.

 

Were it my bike, & not isolating the noise to anything on the engine specifically, I think I would definitely remove the starter & see how much play the clutch disk has on the trans input shaft splines (ie- with clutch lever pulled in-- how far can the clutch disk be turned in both directions before the trans input shaft starts moving?) -- I'm not specifically saying it is the clutch splines but personally I would sure eliminate that as a possibility before venturing far from home on that bike.

 

Also, with noise appearing on the of L/H side of engine it would be a good idea to verify (if) your engine has the (updated) cam chain tensioner on that side. (your engine load vs noise doesn't totally fit a weak tensioner problem but those chain tensioners can sometimes have some odd behavior.

 

Same with removing the valve covers & verifying that the cam chain guides are intact (no broken rail ends allowing the chain to flop around.

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I have the part hub spacer,clutch,etc.have had the monkey bars and Tupperware off of it two times.i keep putting it back together(don't know why)I did the youtube spline check and it was plenty loose.those of you that has had spline strip did it make any noise before the failure ? how long did it make the noise before the failure ? thanks,any one in the dallas-fort worth area looking for work ? $$?? how much ?

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I have the part hub spacer,clutch,etc.have had the monkey bars and Tupperware off of it two times.i keep putting it back together(don't know why)I did the youtube spline check and it was plenty loose.those of you that has had spline strip did it make any noise before the failure ? how long did it make the noise before the failure ? thanks,any one in the dallas-fort worth area looking for work ? $$?? how much ?

 

Morning scoobydew

 

 

Loose (worn) splines could easily be the rattling that you are hearing.

 

No way to put a time period on a total no-pull failure--usually they will pull OK right up to the point that they strip out-- then it is game over as once they slip the spline engagement is gone & the bike just won't move on it's own power.

 

In any case-- a loose clutch hub to worn trans input splines is a walk-home in the making & could bite you at about any time.

 

That isn't an easy repair as it will take a new input shaft, new clutch disk, & someone that knows how to PROPERLY check trans to engine alignment then make offset alignment dowels to move the transmission into proper alignment. (very few shops have the time or ability to properly check & align trans to engine)

 

Not a lot of trans spline failures on the 2004 1150RT but it does happen from time to time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

anyone in the dallas/fort worth area want to put a clutch in a 2004 r1150rt/p ?

I already have the oem parts plus the disc spacer.will sell it for cheap ?

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I'm not specifically saying it is the clutch splines but personally I would sure eliminate that as a possibility before venturing far from home on that bike.

 

Agreed with Dirtrider, Scooby. I picked up another 2004 1150RT recently, and it was making a similar rattle. Only above 4000rpm, only at cruise, and not on decel or accel. Opening up the case I found the clutch plate splines (and less so on the input shaft) nearly worn down (it was an RTP, clutch last replaced at 30k, now it's 66k) and the input shaft never replaced (per the CHP service records). At that age, the rattles/noises I've kinda found have been -- worn throttle bodies which make a clicking noise as the rpms go higher as the motor shakes side to side. Clutch plate splines.. a clacking noise at cruise or acceleration; valves; left side cam tensioner, and an alternator belt falling apart slowly (slapping the cover and ultimately destroying the Hall Effect Sensor)

 

I definitely would peek in there and have a look. A great tool is a remote USB camera, picked up one on EBAY for about $20, or just a flashlight and small mirror will do too. Get a stethoscope or use a screwdriver and listen around the engine for noise.

 

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asking $3500.00 plus title transfer(almost 400.00 bucks local make me an offer.bought it for 3000.00,changed out all the fluids,and bleed the brakes&brakes.sync the t/b.i might be open for less.thanks bruce.817-213-7524 Arlington,tx.76017

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are the transmissions all the same(gear ratios & fitment)? my 2004 r1150rt/p runs about 63 +- at 4000 rpm.i hear somewhere the city p bikes are geared lower ? also the rearend (drive) is different? if I find something wrong with tranny when I replace the clutch can I mis-match them ?

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any one out there ? can I swap transmissions and or rear drives ?to lower rpm"s will they interchange ?

 

Morning scoobydew

 

 

Yes, you can interchange the transmissions (just stay in the same 1150 bike parts) & final drives (the fit is the same) just do your homework to make sure you end up with a 1st gear & 6th gear ratio that you can live with for an overall gearing change.

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