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Dan's Kit vs Bing Throttle Body Rebuild


roger 04 rt

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roger 04 rt

I know that Dan's throttle body rebuild kit enjoys an earned good reputation but I'd be interested to hear any experiences with the kits.

 

Between the Dan Kit and Bing's which is better, what's the difference?

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Roger -

 

I can tell you the Bing kit comes with a new throttle cam pressed on to a new shaft. You don't get any bushings.

 

Dan's kit comes with new shaft and you use the old cam. You get new bushings.

 

After 108K mi, I needed new bushings, IMHO. Tuning became a lot more responsive. Shafts after about 60K mi didn't look too bad. I'd post a picture but I destroyed the old bushings when I removed them.

 

Just to be clear, I did the Bing kit at about 50K and Dan's kit about 60K later. Both were indicated by a clicking right throttle cam at idle.

 

An intersting post (#11) in this thread from advrider, suggesting alternative bushings that may be better.

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Here is the link to when I rebuilt mine LINK

 

I used the rebuild kit from Bing, and I sourced the new bushings myself from McMaster-Carr. If you have specific questions, just give a yell.

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So can I clarify, for the 1150 LH TB the TPS is just removed, and refitted. The only thing that needs do post rebuild is ECU reset (fuse #5 pull and then refit it 10 or so minutes later)?

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So can I clarify, for the 1150 LH TB the TPS is just removed, and refitted. The only thing that needs do post rebuild is ECU reset (fuse #5 pull and then refit it 10 or so minutes later)?

 

Morning Andy

 

No, the TPS also needs to re-checked then re-adjusted if necessary after any TB shaft, throttle-plate, or base idle screw replacement or adjustment.

 

The TPS might be OK where it was or might be far enough off that the Motronic can't learn the hi/lo limits, the only way to know for sure is to check it.

 

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roger 04 rt

The reasons I'm considering rebuilding my TBs is that there's a tapping from the butterflies, mainly on the right & also the left shaft has enough play that it shows up,when setting the TPS voltage; and there is no paint in my throttle stops. So if I'm going to go to the trouble of z=250 mV, maybe I'll replace the shafts & bushing & clean things up.

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Thanks. Why the McMaster Carr bushings vs Bing?

 

The rebuild kit from Bing did not include replacement bushings. I don't know if they even sell them at all. Plus, I had already ordered the rebuild kit before I realized I needed them. It would be worth calling and at least asking them. They were great to deal with over the phone. So I never asked about the bushings, I just pulled the originals and ordered replacements from McMaster-Carr so I could get them the next day and get back on the road.

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roger 04 rt
Sorry Roger can you clarify that z=250mV thing.

I thought the target value was 360mV?

 

I'm not a fan of the procedure to adjust the throttle stop screws (zero=zero). I believe that if your throttle stops are painted, they're good. But if someone else tampered with them and you feel the need to correct them, z=z has a mistaken starting point of 0mV with a fully closed throttle. The correct starting point is 250 mV with the throttle all the way closed. Then use the throttle stop screw to open until the TPS reads 340 mV.

 

Z=250 results in a superior alignment between TPS and Motronic at small throttle angles and more BBS authority.

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The only problem with that, is once you replace hardware on the throttle bodies, the painted screw setting from the factory may no longer work with the tolerances of the new parts. It might be fine if you get lucky, but you should really back them off so you can properly center the butterfly plate in the bore. I won't say I know the best way to get the throttle bodies set back up, but below is what I did with mine and my RT ran better than it ever did once completed.

 

When I rebuilt mine, I felt that getting the throttle plate properly seated in the throttle body was the most important part. At first I just slapped them together and

it ran like crap at idle. I ended up removing them again, backing off the throttle stops, and then loosening the set screws on plates again. Then I manually opened the throttle plate via the cam and let it snap shut a few times while slowly tightening the set screws a little after each open/close. Once done, the throttle plates were perfectly centered in the bore. I then adjusted the throttle stop screws just enough that the throttle plates were slightly cracked open. Make sure both the left and right side throttle body stop screws are set evenly. I just eyeballed it and it turned out fine. Set the BBS's at 1.5 turns out. Once all that is set up, I put them back on the bike and adjusted the TPS to .385 with the throttle plate sitting on the stop (engine not running). Then I fired it up and balanced the right side throttle body to match the left while keeping the RPMs at 1100 using the BBS's. It took about 1/4 turn each. Then open the throttle to 4500 RPM or so and balance the right side throttle body to match the left using the throttle cable adjustment at the right side throttle body. Once that was done, the TPS voltage was rock solid and repeatable under all conditions, and the throttle bodies were the most balanced I've ever had them under all conditions. It's really pretty simple, just a real PITA to write out

 

Once again.....I ain't preaching anything. I didn't know what I was doing when I started, but by the time I was done I had a VERY good understanding of how the throttle bodies, TPS, Motronic, and all of the adjustments worked together. It's a shame the transmission only lasted another 10k miles before it kicked the bucket because the bike was running fantastic after this was done.

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I need to reset my throttle plates and I think I have most of the information I need but two things elude me. First, how do I remove the throttle bodies properly? Second, how do I measure the voltage output from the TPS?

 

Thanks for any tips.

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Never mind. I found the zero=zero article over at bmoa and that together with this and a couple of other threads should help me to get back running.

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roger 04 rt

Shane. Z=z starts at the wrong TPS voltage resulting in a throttle that is too far open at idle, set the TPS voltage to 250 mV at zero degrees throttle, then open to 340.

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