Shane J. Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 I picked up another 1150rt a couple of weeks ago (three of them in the garage now). This one is a 2006 with 46000 miles on it. The clutch handle action is strange, so I replaced the clutch master cylinder with a known good used one and have the same symptoms. With the hydraulic lines disconnected the lever snaps back out. With the system hooked up the lever moves out slow and pauses just before reaching the end of the travel. This is where the clutch actually engages. So to shift, I just pull the lever about an inch and use just the outer travel. Its like the lever is moving through molasses. I know this isn't correct as I have two others to compare it to. I have bled the system thoroughly a couple of times and it makes no difference. I see no sign of leakage from the output (slave) cylinder and I am losing no fluid from the reservoir. I did 350 miles on Sunday with no problem. The clutch action just feels sluggish. I have no problem shifting and there is no slipping or grabbing. I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace the output cylinder next, but it's $168 so that is an expensive way to diagnose if it isn't the problem. Does this sound like an output cylinder problem, or perhaps instead the clutch plates? I would think the clutch plates would produce symptoms of slipping or grabbing. Could this be a buildup of debris on the cylinder output rod maybe? Is there a way to clean that area without removing the unit? Any help appreciated. Shane Link to comment
mneblett Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Sounds more like a deteriorating hose problem. If the hose has a partial blockage, it may act like a check valve (or a slowly leaking check valve), preventing fluid return from the slave to the master. If you have a spare hose around (since it appears you had a spare clutch master cylinder!) you could temporarily install the hose from the master around to the slave to see whether the lever behavior is different. Or just buy and install a replacement if you are in diagnose-by-parts-replacement mode. Link to comment
Shane J. Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Yes, a collapsed hose could cause it. I have had a collapsed brake line cause problems on another bike I had. The BMW parts listing for that line is $181. Anybody know offhand what size the end fittings are and a length needed so I could source a replacement? Shane Link to comment
AnotherLee Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Hi, Shane - How about a stainless steel braided teflon line from Spiegler for $68 ? (I'm assuming this 2006 RT is an R1200.) Link to comment
AnotherLee Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 ...if you have barbacks you might want to add an inch or two to the standard length. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Morning Shane Strange problem. If you bled it at the slave cylinder & got plenty of fluid flow when bleeding then it doesn't sound like a hose blockage (at least at first thought) You might have a slave cylinder with an issue or have problems in the clutch parts themselves. What color was the original fluid that you bled out? If black, or especially if black with particles in it, then possibly a degraded slave cylinder inner seal or pitted bore. Or, with your bike having a 2006 title date maybe someone in that past put some 2006 hexhead mineral oil clutch fluid in it (oilhead RT takes brake fluid in the clutch system), those fluids don't mix worth a hoot & the master/slave seals are a different material. Link to comment
mneblett Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Hi, Shane - How about a stainless steel braided teflon line from Spiegler for $68 ? I went this route on my R1150RT-P. Link to comment
Shane J. Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 To clarify- It is a 2006 R1150RTP. Although in this case the P has no effect. I did find the Spiegler line for the bike at a reasonable price and might replace it no matter what else comes up. Before I got the bike it had 1200 miles on a dealer service that only topped off the clutch master cylinder in 2012. One of the first things I did was bleed the entire brake system, and clutch also. The clutch fluid looked fine, just not quite as clear as new, and I had no problem bleeding it. That should have tipped me off that the master cylinder was ok as the lever moved in and out normally while the line was opened and closed. It is only after pressure builds up that it gets stiff/loggy/nonlinear/. Link to comment
Tri750 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 I vote slave. The kit that's availablei think in many cases is a waste of money. Link to comment
Shane J. Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 To which kit are you referring? I thought of a better way to describe the problem. It's as if it is a clutch cable that is too adjusted too tight and needs lubrication. Trying to sort this out as my wife and I are going on a 5000 mile ride next month. Shane Link to comment
Boomer343 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 I would pull the starter and have a look around while someone is moving the clutch lever. It is pretty tight but it might give you some clues. Perhaps the bike was submerged in water at some time? There are lubrication spots on the pressure plate but not sure you can do that without pulling the transmission. You could also check for the spline wear between the clutch hub and transmission input shaft while you have the starter pulled. Link to comment
Shane J. Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 Any leads to a good thread for this procedure? Link to comment
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