pdxstriper Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I have a 2004 R1150RT with 22K miles. Ever since I got it - second owner - it has consumed oil at the rate of about a liter every 1,000 miles. Some of the oil appears to be released from the oil filler can on the left cylinder. Oil is sprayed on the cylinder, my left leg, and the saddle bag. A hint: there has been oil pooling on the top of the oil filler cap on the left cylinder. Last service time I had them replace the gaskets on that little black plastic plug. The behavior did not chance. Can someone offer some insight into what I am experiencing? Is this typical of this era of oil head? I appreciate any comments. Link to comment
Marc01 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Had the same problem, need to replace the insert and it's o-ring as well as the o-ring on the cap. Marc Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I have a 2004 R1150RT with 22K miles. Ever since I got it - second owner - it has consumed oil at the rate of about a liter every 1,000 miles. Some of the oil appears to be released from the oil filler can on the left cylinder. Oil is sprayed on the cylinder, my left leg, and the saddle bag. A hint: there has been oil pooling on the top of the oil filler cap on the left cylinder. Last service time I had them replace the gaskets on that little black plastic plug. The behavior did not chance. Can someone offer some insight into what I am experiencing? Is this typical of this era of oil head? I appreciate any comments. It's fairly common. You need to replace the big o-ring on the outside of the insert. I happen to have a few spare o-rings. Donate $5 to the site and I'll drop one in the mail to you. Link to comment
pdxstriper Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks for the great responses. First thing I will do - after this weekends big ride - is share this feedback with my repair guy. The bike has to go in for it's 24K mile service soon and I want to keep him in the loop. Link to comment
MontanaBud Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 When I told the dealership parts department that I wanted to order the oil filler cap, base insert, and both O-rings because of oil leakage, he told me the hard parts (cap and base) almost never go bad, and all I should need were the O-rings. So I ordered and replaced the O-rings, but it continued to leak. This Spring I ordered all four parts online, installed them, and haven't had a hint of oil leakage since. These parts are so inexpensive, it's well worth it. Link to comment
foundationapps Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Consider the NON BMW http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/ machined aluminum with high quality O-rings as a replacement, excellent piece of work and it's a metal screw in plug, not that 1/4 turn non-sense BMW uses. Link to comment
Rex R Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I have a 2004 R1150RT with 22K miles. Ever since I got it - second owner - it has consumed oil at the rate of about a liter every 1,000 miles. Some of the oil appears to be released from the oil filler can on the left cylinder. Oil is sprayed on the cylinder, my left leg, and the saddle bag. A hint: there has been oil pooling on the top of the oil filler cap on the left cylinder. Last service time I had them replace the gaskets on that little black plastic plug. The behavior did not chance. Can someone offer some insight into what I am experiencing? Is this typical of this era of oil head? I appreciate any comments. I have pretty much the same symptoms but without the spraying oil. Can someone describe how to replace the insert? Pry it out with a screwdriver? Turn it out with your fingers? Yank it out with a 10lb slide hammer? Link to comment
Tri750 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The base insert is plastic so carefully pry it out evenly using a pocket screwdriver or two. Inspect the insert for missing chunks or cracks. If ok, put the new o ring in place, use a little spit on the o-ring and while pushing down on the insert with one thumb, carefully poke the o-ring around a few laps with that pocket screwdriver until the insert seats. For the PD bikes, we would replace the filler cap o-ring every minor , the base o-ring every major. Police Officers are real touchy about their expensive leather boots. We're talking plastic so maybe every 24k miles or so you should treat yourself to a new cap and or insert. For the price of one of the machined caps, you can buy a lot of o-rings and plastic. Some even require their own size o-ring, so now what? Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 When I told the dealership parts department that I wanted to order the oil filler cap, base insert, and both O-rings because of oil leakage, he told me the hard parts (cap and base) almost never go bad, and all I should need were the O-rings. So I ordered and replaced the O-rings, but it continued to leak. This Spring I ordered all four parts online, installed them, and haven't had a hint of oil leakage since. These parts are so inexpensive, it's well worth it. I think you had an unusual case. Folks, this has been going on for years. The vast majority of time you only need to replace the big o-ring around the outside of the insert. If you replace it with a fancy Viton o-ring in all probability you will never have the problem again. Link to comment
CoolTouch Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 If you replace it with a fancy Viton o-ring in all probability you will never have the problem again. Is ther a part number or source for this Viton o-ring? I just keep a bunch of the stock ones in... uh...stock. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 If you replace it with a fancy Viton o-ring in all probability you will never have the problem again. Is ther a part number or source for this Viton o-ring? I just keep a bunch of the stock ones in... uh...stock. See post #3. I bought mine off eBay I think. Link to comment
CoolTouch Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 If you replace it with a fancy Viton o-ring in all probability you will never have the problem again. Is ther a part number or source for this Viton o-ring? I just keep a bunch of the stock ones in... uh...stock. See post #3. I bought mine off eBay I think. Donation sent. I love win-win situations i will PM you my address. Link to comment
AndyS Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Looking at O ring compatibility charts, I would be surprised if you saw any noticeable difference between the stock O ring and a Viton item. You may consider sourcing a SLIGHLY larger size. So, if it is a Metric 18mm diameter x 4mm cross section, see if you can source an 18 x 4.5 CS O ring. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Consider the NON BMW http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/ machined aluminum with high quality O-rings as a replacement, excellent piece of work and it's a metal screw in plug, not that 1/4 turn non-sense BMW uses. This is a great alternative too. Had one since late 90's transferred between 3 oil heads. http://www.bmwmotorcycleaccessories.com/BME-Oil-Head-R1100-R1150-Billet-Replacement-Oil-Filler-Cap-MT-513-045A.htm Link to comment
foundationapps Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Ooopsss, my mistake on the wonderelich plug. The one I bought and use IS from the above link (Creative Cycle Concepts), not the Wunderlich plug. Link to comment
CoolTouch Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Looking at O ring compatibility charts, I would be surprised if you saw any noticeable difference between the stock O ring and a Viton item. You may consider sourcing a SLIGHLY larger size. So, if it is a Metric 18mm diameter x 4mm cross section, see if you can source an 18 x 4.5 CS O ring. Define noticeable difference. I am testing for longevity. For $5, it's worth the tuition. Link to comment
AndyS Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 OK I'll define it. There is no difference for the application which we are using it for. below is the compatibility chart and you'll see that for engine oil, The OEM O ring is probably Nitrile (Buna-N).The performance of the Viton (Fluorocarbon FKM)O ring in this static application affords no benefits. It has a similar hardness and both O rings are excellent for sealing in hot oily environments. If it were a braking system, then the above is NOT true. Buna-N is not good with brake fluid. http://www.sealingdevices.com/documents/oring_chemicalcompatibility.pdf Link to comment
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