TREE Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I have the airhead tool dimensions but can't find one for the oilhead. Anyone have a diagram of the oilhead tool so I can lathe it. Tnx sorry, forgot to say it is 1100 (see below) Link to comment
Ken H. Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Which oil head? The 1100 and 1150 series are different. Here's the one for the 1150 series: I think I've got the 1100 series one spec'd somewhere at home. If nobody comes up with it for you here today, I'll dig tonight. Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Tree, I'f you're going to make one, based on those dimensions the taper is 30 degrees from the axis or 60 degrees from perpendicular. -Jerry Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Lone_RT_Rider drew this after using one I had made for my own 1100RT: It's used together with the clutch pushrod to form a complete centering tool. The ribs are for grip (with your fingers or a shop rag) when you're trying to pull it out of the clutch (mine was a very slightly snug fit). Link to comment
TREE Posted February 22, 2006 Author Share Posted February 22, 2006 Thanks guys, this tool for the 1100 would be easier for me on the lathe if you have the right dimensions. Mitch's 1100 tool shows me the clutch ID is .716 for mine but I need the smaller diameter and length dimensions for the small end of the tool in this diagram. Which oil head? The 1100 and 1150 series are different. Here's the one for the 1150 series: I think I've got the 1100 series one spec'd somewhere at home. If nobody comes up with it for you here today, I'll dig tonight. Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I have a spare pushrod that I pulled out of a spare tranny I picked up cheap. The small diameter mic's at .2355". The lenght is a little harder to measure but from base of taper to end is about 1.268". I've never done this job but I think these are the dimensions you need. Cheers, Jerry Link to comment
nrp Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I suggest the .716 dia and the .365 dia be machined and bored respectively at the same lathe chucking to minimize final clutch disk runout. Then turn the part around and drill .375 (3/8) almost all the way thru to provide clearance. Does this make sense to people who have done this (I frankly have not)? Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I suggest the .716 dia and the .365 dia be machined and bored respectively at the same lathe chucking to minimize final clutch disk runout. Then turn the part around and drill .375 (3/8) almost all the way thru to provide clearance. Does this make sense to people who have done this (I frankly have not)? I agree this is how the tool should be made. It is important that the critical concentric surfaces be machined w/o rechucking. And BTW, I offer expert machining services at discount rates to anybody who needs a tool made. All work guaranteed. --Jerry Link to comment
powerman Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I offer expert machining services at discount rates to anybody who needs a tool made sounds like a biz opertunity, I'd order one just to have in the tool box if price right. Link to comment
Silver_Fox Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Isn't there some thread out there that has a drawing for the 1100 like the one we have for the 1150. I think it is good enough for government work. I have one like it for my R90S and my 1150. I need to have one turned for the 1100. Thanxx for the help. Steve Link to comment
Ken H. Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Opps, sorry, I meant to post this earlier: Link to comment
Got_Poi? Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 What is the overall length necessary for this tool? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Beyond the 1.625 tip length, the rest just becomes a handle. Mine is 6" or so. Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 I offer expert machining services at discount rates to anybody who needs a tool made sounds like a biz opertunity, I'd order one just to have in the tool box if price right. I've got some interest in these tools. I don't want to get too comercial here so please PM me if you want one of these tools. I'll start at $20 shipped but if I get enough interest to make a bunch of them I'll probably be able to lower it to $15 shipped. Please make sure you specify which sketch in this thread you need. Thanks, jerry Link to comment
RFW Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Lone_RT_Rider drew this after using one I had made for my own 1100RT: Mitch ....Looks like he is using SolidWorks?? Great package. Use it all day, every day, at work, albeit for something a bit different (designing cellphones and the like). Bob. Link to comment
TREE Posted February 28, 2006 Author Share Posted February 28, 2006 Thanks Ken. This (.3535 in dia ) is not for an R1100 I am guessing, as the clutch splines need a 18.2 mm ( .716 in ) diam shaft. I bit the bullet today and made a quick and dirty one out of hardwood like Mitch's. ( yes, call me crazy but the lathe is 20 miles away ). My pushrod fits snuggly through a hole drilled in the 2" long wooden rod 18.2 mm diameter. It seems to fit accurately into the old clutch assembly which is still in place. We'll see how well it works when I get my new bolts in the mail. So far it looks good. Cheap....... who called me cheap ! Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Cheap....... who called me cheap ! If you were really cheap, you would just center the clutch disc without the tool and be done with it. The tool isn't really needed. Stan Link to comment
TREE Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 If you were really cheap, you would just center the clutch disc without the tool and be done with it. The tool isn't really needed. Stan Gee Stan, that takes all the fun out of it ! Hardwood tool worked well, took 15 mins to make, tranny slid in like butter. Splines are lubed and hopefully good for another 100K kms. Link to comment
Tool Man Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Looks like he is using SolidWorks?? I noticed that too....as well as CamWorks for tool pathing. I use it most every day also. Good to see another machinist in the group. Link to comment
Lone_RT_rider Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Looks like he is using SolidWorks?? I noticed that too....as well as CamWorks for tool pathing. I use it most every day also. Good to see another machinist in the group. I can neither confirm, nor deny that I am using Solid Works for non-work related projects. I do use it for work, and it seems to perform well. I have in the past for other career impasses used IDEAS, Unigraphics, CATIA, Pro-Engineer, Anvil 5000 and a small bit of AutoCad. Of all the packages I have used, I still believe that Pro-Engineer tops them all. But, maybe thats because I am one. By the way, before this turns into a Machinest/Engineer thread, my father was a machinest. I already know what F word always preceeds the word "engineer". Shawn Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 I already know what F word always preceeds the word "engineer". Shawn I'm an engineer working almost daily with machinists and mechanics at a large power plant. I've always got along well with the guys in the shop because tools were never foreign to me like they are so some engineers. Since I became a machinist, I seem to be getting a little more respect from the machinists too. Some engineers indeed deserve the F word in front of their name. I look at their cars or bikes and I wouldn't want them working on anything of mine. Here's a photo of the first two/three alignment tools. Working too late at night I made the first one with the nose about .100" short--I don't know if this is a critical dimension or not so I may harden it and it may become a .232" punch. And I told someone that I would make them out of aluminum. I decided steel is stiffer and Ken says the one he has is steel so that's what I used. If someone wants one out of aluminum I can do that. Link to comment
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