hello folks ! iabs problem

[zinhe]

Hello , i'm Ben from Cannes south of France , i love your forum and it help a lot for servicing my 1150RT!

I have actually a problem with my Abs

after flushing my bike properly, i have now after an emergency braking an alert signal + 4 hz blink.

when i start the bike abs is ok we can hear that the pumps are functional ( bizzz bizzz sound as usual )

when i brake progressively i'll no have any alert but when i'm sudden this alert come...

when i brake from the rear this alert come directly

i have a video of this problem on youtube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmDQniNyyGU

thanks for your help !

[dirtrider]

Morning Zinhe

 

Your bike has two brake warning lights, The General warning light & the ABS warning light.

 

Is one off & the other one flashing at 4 Hz, or is one on & the other one flashing at 4 Hz?

 

If the General warning light is OFF, but the ABS warning light flashes at 4Hz that means that you only have residual braking on both front & rear brake circuits.

 

Unfortunately a 4 Hz flashing dash light (or General light on & ABS flashing at 4Hz) doesn't tell us much other then your brake system is in residual braking on one or both ends.

 

If your problem only shows up after hard braking then it might be-- a servo pump issue, or even a brake switch issue, or possibly a wire connection issue, or possibly a servo pump issue, --or even an internal controller pressure switch issue (I have seen a few of these lately).

 

Low fluid in one of the controller reservoir's usually gives a different light flashing sequence so that doesn't sound like the problem.

 

You really need a GS-911 or dealer computer to tell much but you can verify that both front & rear brake switches are working (clicking) & possibly use an ohmmeter to verify that the brake switches are CLOSED at rest & go OPEN as the brake lever or pedal is moved.

 

If you removed the main ABS controller connector to gain access during the brake service then make sure it doesn't have a bent terminal pin or a terminal pin that was pushed back when re-assembling.

 

If you have made ANY adjustments to the rear brake pedal position or rear brake master cylinder rod then look there first.

 

A GS-911 brake failure code would sure help us help you find your brake problem.

 

If it worked OK before the brake service then go back over EVERYTHING you moved, adjusted, or unplugged during the brake service.

 

[zinhe]

First of all thanks for your help Dirtrider,

To answer your first question, i have : one on & the other one flashing at 4 Hz. It's only when i press hard on the front or rear brakes

 

after this alert i still have the " assisted brake wizzy sound" .

If i continue to ride and still braking with the front brake my assisted brakes are functional

 

the residual braking happen if i brake only with the rear.

 

after that it's like the abs shut down i can hear the pumps stopping and then i have residual braking in both circuits

 

Today i have made a ride in order to understand more about this problem. i have noticed that if brake very progressively with the front brake , i'll no have any alert.

 

I also tested my rear brakes with ignition off , i have seen that my rear residual brake don't brake at all ...i pushed at the maximum with the foot but i have nothing at the rear when pumps are off.

 

 

I think my problem come to the rear . Is it possible to make a bypass only for the rear ?

 

I don't have the gs 911 but i'm going to find one

i'll post the error codes

 

Thanks again for all !

 

regards

 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon zinhe

 

What year 1150 are you working with?

 

If you have NO rear brake in residual then maybe you have a rear brake issue (like air in the rear wheel circuit)

 

OR-- there was a service bulletin on bad rear master cylinders on a few 1150 bikes (not sure what year) but you would think that a bad master cylinder wouldn't JUST appear right after a brake service.

 

Seeing as your problem appeared right after a brake service & seems to be apply-pressure-sensitive then you might try re-bleeding the rear control circuit & re-bleeding the rear wheel circuit. (lots of air in the rear wheel circuit could possibly be causing your issue)

 

Did you bleed the wheel circuits with the key turned-on & the pumps functional?

 

[zinhe]

good afternoon ,

My bike 1150 rt june 2002 i have the absIII on it

 

i have made my service with ignition on and the pumps were functional

 

OK.tomorrow i'll bleed it again and find the error codes.

But just a question ... the rear residual brake must be strongfull or it is normal to don't have so much power on it ?

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

But just a question ... the rear residual brake must be strongfull or it is normal to don't have so much power on it ?

 

 

Afternoon zinhe

 

 

Residual braking on the 1150 (I-ABS) is pretty poor. They should stop but you REALLY need to use both front & rear & really pull hard on front lever & stand hard on rear brake pedal to get them to stop.

[zinhe]

Afternoon dirtrider !

I have just a question, if i will make a absectomy

is it possible to keep the abs module on the bike without cutting any wire and just link bypass the calipers

the idea is to keep pin connector ok.( if one day i'll find one i will be able to reconnect to the new one

thanks !

[dirtrider]

Afternoon zinhe

 

Yes, it is possible but much more difficult as you would need to add new brake light switches & wire those into your existing tail/brake light circuit.

 

If you want to keep your bike ABS returnable in the future --Personally I would remove your current ABS module (if your are replacing it then it doesn't work anyhow)

 

I would leave the present ABS connector (cover it or tape it off to keep it clean) , then add the relay & tail light bypass to the existing wire harness just below the present ABS connector (tap into the wires just below the ABS connector). Then add the new brake plumbing leaving the existing brake pipes in place (but plugged off)

 

That way all you have to do in the future is to reinstall the new ABS controller, re-plumb the brake system, then cut your relay/tail light circuit wire harness & cover the exposed wire ends.

[zinhe]

afternoon dirtrider

 

i have seen this post in the web http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/232002-Simple-NO-COST-servo-removal-of-1150-IABS-system?s=929ee703ad52160ec3f3b72ee7b48a51

 

do you think that is possible to don't buy anything for this operation ?

thank you again man !

[dirtrider]

afternoon dirtrider

 

i have seen this post in the web http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/232002-Simple-NO-COST-servo-removal-of-1150-IABS-system?s=929ee703ad52160ec3f3b72ee7b48a51

 

do you think that is possible to don't buy anything for this operation ?

thank you again man !

 

Afternoon Zinhe

 

You shouldn't have to buy much--- You will need some wire, & wire connectors, & brake fluid. Plus I usually make up a little steel line from the rear master cylinder to the existing rear brake hose (some do it differently with a longer (non ABS rear hose or somehow make the rear hose work).

 

I get the cleanest most OEM looking setup when adding a short steel line for the rear brake from hose to master cylinder.

 

You can use the removed ABS relay for the brake light relay.

[mneblett]

At the risk of annoying D.R. again, I'll offer up another approach to an iABS-ectomy that does not require any re-wiring at all or any additional relays.

 

Much like the ukgser thread, Chris Harris has produced a video showing the piping/hose modifications required:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI

 

In that video he goes on to do the wiring/relay mods D.R. identified.

 

In a later iABS-ectomy, he did something that I had been wondering whether it would work (it did). The brake lights, etc. that run through the iABS pump unit are all contained in the black section of the pump assembly. You can simply un-bolt this section from the metal pump housing, leave the wiring harness attached to the section, and weather protect the exposed electronics:

 

 

If I ever have to remove my RT-P's iABS unit, I'm planning on doing it this way.

[cele0001]

Do not cut or modify the harness !!!!!

There is no need to add relays

 

Here is the link. Keep the electrical, dump the hydraulic, pull the relay and enjoy.

 

http://jpramondon.blogspot.com/2010/05/abs-removal-epilogue-hopefully.html

 

Just saw the post above mine. Either way this guy did it first. This is the only way it should be done.

 

Edited April 28, 2015 by cele0001

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Mark

 

We have done it that way on the early 1200GS to eliminate the ABS system & keep the other bike electronics happy.

 

On the 1150 doesn't that leave one of the ABS lights on?

 

 

 

[mneblett]

Afternoon Mark

 

We have done it that way on the early 1200GS to eliminate the ABS system & keep the other bike electronics happy.

 

On the 1150 doesn't that leave one of the ABS lights on?

Harris does not state yes or no, and I haven't done it yet to verify. I note that he did not mention any ABS light issues, and he did this in the context of preparing an 1150RT for "total reliability," i.e., in a context where I expect an ABS light being present would have been unacceptable to the bike's new owner.

 

If the OP has any doubts, it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask Harris on his Team Monkey Productions Facebook page a specific question on the lights.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Mark

 

Would definitely be something to look into. The ABS light will not be an issue as removing the ABS relay should kill that.

 

The General warning light is driven directly by that ABS black box so it seems that would stay on. (the General Warning dash bulb is a pain to remove on the 1150)

[mneblett]

The ABS light will not be an issue as removing the ABS relay should kill that.

Your comment makes perfect sense -- I suspect that is exactly what Chris Harris did, but didn't mention. A simple "final" step to the process.

[AndyS]

I have made a 'walkthru guide' which you are most welcome to use or peruse.

Drop me your email address and I will send it to you.

[cele0001]

Afternoon Mark

 

We have done it that way on the early 1200GS to eliminate the ABS system & keep the other bike electronics happy.

 

On the 1150 doesn't that leave one of the ABS lights on?

Harris does not state yes or no, and I haven't done it yet to verify. I note that he did not mention any ABS light issues, and he did this in the context of preparing an 1150RT for "total reliability," i.e., in a context where I expect an ABS light being present would have been unacceptable to the bike's new owner.

 

If the OP has any doubts, it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask Harris on his Team Monkey Productions Facebook page a specific question on the lights.

 

I dont see how would that be unacceptable to the owner.

Obviously he knows what is going on and is accepting it right?

 

 

So there is really no need to say to the customer "The light that says that something is wrong with the ABS is staying on. No sh-t it is staying on, we ripped half of the thing out."

Two choices: remove bulb, or put electrical tape over it. It depends on the models. Some clusters are easy to remove. But electrical tape was OK also.

 

And I mean general warning light, relay does take care of the ABS light

Edited April 29, 2015 by cele0001

[zinhe]

good evening !

dirtrider you told me before that i'll need some wire and connectors.

But do you think that if i keep the electronic part of the abs that will be ok ? i don't want to cut the wires ...( perharps i'll buy further another abs module....) i have seen this post do you think that process will be possible for my R1150rt of 2002? http://jpramondon.blogspot.fr/2010/05/abs-removal-epilogue-hopefully.html

 

thanks !

[dirtrider]

Morning zinhe

 

As I mentioned above I have seen an early 1200 GS (I-ABS system) done that way.

 

It will probably work OK but I guess I don't see the reason to do that on your 1150RT (seems like a lot of work for no real gain)

 

That link you posted was for the R1100S-- So they NEEDED to do it that way to retain the speedometer operation (spedo on the ABS 1100S runs off the ABS wheel sensor).

 

If you choose to do it that way you will STILL need to re-plumb the brake lines so no gain there.

 

You will still need to remove the ABS relay (so no gain there)-- What you are trading off is having to disassemble the ABS unit & fabricating a waterproof block-off plate. Finding a way to secure the retained ABS black box. Then spending the time & effort to remove the ABS General Warning Light bulb (or cutting that wire at the black box connector)

 

To me (but what do I know) it seems much quicker & easier to simply remove the ABS controller, then just strip back a little wire insulation at your existing ABS connector (no need to cut it off or remove it) then connect the tail light wires with a short jumper wire & add the brake switch jumper wire to the removed relay. (a little sealer over the solder joints & you are good to go)

 

Then tape up or cover the ABS connector. (that's it, no dash light to contend with & your ABS unit stays intact so it can be sent out to be rebuilt or used as a core if you buy a rebuilt unit in the future)

 

I guess this is something you will have to decide for yourself-- Kind of comes down to tools available & personal ability.

 

If you have the tools & ability to make the block-off plate & want to mess around removing the general warning light bulb, & think that will be easier than adding a few wires to a relay, then the block-off plate & using your existing black box might be the way for you to go.

 

On the other hand, if you think wiring up a little relay circuit with pig tail then connecting that to your existing ABS controller wiring would be easier then that is probably the way to go. (no need to cut the warning light wire or access the general warning light bulb this way). But, you will probably need a soldering gun or soldering iron to do it this way.

 

Hopefully you can get your ABS system working & don't have to do either (this would be the best way)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[zinhe]

Afternoon Dirtbike

 

Ok let me tell you what i have done today ....

i was resolved to make the servoectomy as you recommanded me to do.

And clearlyi think that's the real way to do that .

 

But before, by curiosity i have removed the abs relay just to see the reaction of the brakes . i have seen that my " assisted brakes " are still working even if i stay long time braking . I wanted to test this " situation of non abs relay " on the road !

 

1/i have an General Alert signal

2/ the " assistance" for braking is working front and rear

3/ the front brake very very good !( i have made 50 km testing them in city surburbs highway in descent high speed low speed etc ...) and they are holding no doubt for that .

4/ BUT when i brake on the rear my assistance shut down and i m in residual braking .

 

So ... i'm wondering if i can ride like that ...

i'm also wondering if my abs relay is not involved in this abs issue.

 

Bmw...Better Moving Walking !lol

[dirtrider]

Evening zinhe

 

First off-- That ABS relay is NOT a relay for the ABS, it is only for the ABS dash light. So removing it only disables the ABS light from showing on the dash.

 

As to riding it with the rear servo system acting up-- I don't recommend it but as long as it doesn't effect the front servo braking then about you lose is the rear wheel brake.

 

Problem is: you don't know what is wrong with the braking so it could get worse at any time & you might not have power braking on either end when you really need it.

[cele0001]

Evening all.

It is really easier to separate the abs module from the body than to solder anything.there are 4 tamper proof torx and two 3 plugs to disconnect. I am not sure about the OP's bike but I had to do it for the speedo to work. But still, it is reversible nothing needs to be cut or added. It takes much longer to do the brake lines than the electrical.

[AndyS]

You guys seem to be making a VERY simple job sound very complicated.

The 1150RT is SIMPLE to revert to non iABS.

As I say, if you want a step by step guide, it is available.

[dirtrider]

Morning Andy

 

Don't include me in "you guys" as I think your way is the best.

[Elgranjefe]

Can i get a guide for making my 02 1150rt non-iABS?

 

thank you!

 

jeff

[dirtrider]

27 minutes ago, Elgranjefe said:

Can i get a guide for making my 02 1150rt non-iABS?

 

thank you!

 

jeff

 

 

Afternoon Jeff

 

You might want to PM AndyS

 

Click on link below, then click on message & send Andy you request. 

 

Keep in mind that he is  a number of  time zones away.

 

https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/profile/30849-andys/