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Brake light switching


gogs01

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I'd like to fit an additional tail / stop light to my 2013 R1200RT. I can manage the tail light easily enough but I need help to find a brake light switch - they don't make them like they used to ! :D

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Afternoon gogs01

 

They definitely don't make them like they used to.

 

Your brake light switches are INSIDE the ABS computer (no external contact switches)

 

To make things even worse for your project there is no separate tail light or brake light wire.

 

The tail light on your bike is the same as the brake light, the ABS computer pulses (pulse width modulates) the voltage going to the brake light to reduce it's output & make it glow at tail light intensity.

 

With a good plan & the CORRECT L.E.D.'s you can get your present system to glow the LED's at reduced light for tail light & brighten for brake light.

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......Your brake light switches are INSIDE the ABS computer (no external contact switches)..........With a good plan & the CORRECT L.E.D.'s you can get your present system to glow the LED's at reduced light for tail light & brighten for brake light....

 

Thanks for the insight, that's pretty much what I had assumed, but I was hoping there would be an input signal to the computer for the brake light which I could use as a trigger for a relay to power the extra brake light. How is the input signal produced ?

 

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......Your brake light switches are INSIDE the ABS computer (no external contact switches)..........With a good plan & the CORRECT L.E.D.'s you can get your present system to glow the LED's at reduced light for tail light & brighten for brake light....

 

Thanks for the insight, that's pretty much what I had assumed, but I was hoping there would be an input signal to the computer for the brake light which I could use as a trigger for a relay to power the extra brake light. How is the input signal produced ?

 

Brake pressure from either front or rear brake master cyl input to pressure switches inside the ABS controller.

 

You can always buy a banjo mounted aftermarket brake switch & longer banjo bolt then mount that on the caliper or brake line.

 

Even IF your bike used brake switches (like the old 1150 I-ABS system) those were reversed logic so were closed at rest & went open during brake apply.

 

Added: the actual brake/tail light output is done by the ZFE (central electronics computer) but it gets it initiation signal from the ABS computer over the CAN (Controller Area Network).

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Afternoon gogs01

 

They definitely don't make them like they used to.

 

Your brake light switches are INSIDE the ABS computer (no external contact switches)

 

To make things even worse for your project there is no separate tail light or brake light wire.

 

The tail light on your bike is the same as the brake light, the ABS computer pulses (pulse width modulates) the voltage going to the brake light to reduce it's output & make it glow at tail light intensity.

 

With a good plan & the CORRECT L.E.D.'s you can get your present system to glow the LED's at reduced light for tail light & brighten for brake light.

 

You multimeter may read the pulsing as voltage pulses but I think it's really current that is being pulsed (i.e. no current or full current). Of course, when current is zero, voltage will also be zero so maybe it just depends on one's frame of reference..

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Evening Dave

 

Yes, it is both voltage & current that is being pulsed 0-13-0-13-0-13-0 etc. The on time vs off time equal the working current at a specific voltage (about 8 volts at the bulb)

 

It's just easier for most people to understand voltage pulsing than pulse width current control.

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You might want to look into the products available at Skene Designs . The basic IQ-160 controller would seem to provide the functions you want, and it will work fine on your RT. Either add your lights to the P3 tail light/controller kit or just purchase the controller and connect up to 30 watts of your own lamps (60W for the turn signal version).

 

I've not yet upgraded my rear lights, but I have added Skene Photon Blasters in front with extra sets of LEDS inside the turn signals for running lights. Works great.

 

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I did this on my 2013 using the official BMW part, about $180 with shipping from A&S. Here is the thread -

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=82069&Number=907697#Post907697

 

It does not flash at this point. I have not taken it apart to add any silicone seal, recommended in another thread.

 

Installation is not too bad -

1. Remove seats.

2. Locate passenger side auxiliary power outlet. The new lights will draw power from the same connector. It is a pass-through connection, so you will separate the existing power cable, then connect the new harness to both sides.

3. Install light under license plate.

4. There is a gap between the fender and subframe on the left side under the passenger seat. Feed the light assembly cable through that.

5. Connect the cable harness (separate part) to the aux outlet cable and light assembly cable.

6. Using a loooonng pair of duckbill pliers, remove the existing tail light cable. Attach it to the corresponding tab on the cable harness. Dielectric grease recommended. Attach the cable harness to the stop light.

7. Key on and test.

 

I am disappointed that there is no visible flashing. However, it does improve your visibility over stock. I am also looking at the Volo light license plate frame to get flashing independently of the Canbus system.

 

Good luck,

 

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You might want to look into the products available at Skene Designs . The basic IQ-160 controller would seem to provide the functions you want, and it will work fine on your RT. Either add your lights to the P3 tail light/controller kit or just purchase the controller and connect up to 30 watts of your own lamps (60W for the turn signal version).

 

I've not yet upgraded my rear lights, but I have added Skene Photon Blasters in front with extra sets of LEDS inside the turn signals for running lights. Works great.

+1. I have a set of Skene P3 lights on the rear of my (now my wife's) camhead RT. No issues with the bike, and they are *bright* and both the flickering and the flashing are real attention-getters.

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I like the idea of the Hyperlites, but being in UK and buying from US I usually get hit for import tax.

 

Anybody know of a source in UK or Europe ?

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Paul In Australia
I like the idea of the Hyperlites, but being in UK and buying from US I usually get hit for import tax.

 

Anybody know of a source in UK or Europe ?

they are vey expensive so any tax would be minimal

I didn't have to pay any when imported to Australia

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they are vey expensive so any tax would be minimal......I didn't have to pay any when imported to Australia

 

I've bought things like Throttlemeister cruise controls before and had to pay tax which made an expensive item even more expensive. :( If you don't get caught for that s**t in Oz then you're very fortunate. :grin:

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