Getting Second Hand Top Case Coded to Your Key

[Aussiegazza]

Hi all

 

Just picked up my 2014 R1200RT and loving it.

 

All recalls done and everything working. The Aussie model has nearly every option as std, but I have a potential issue.

 

I have bought a used top case (non central locking version) on EBay and want to get the lock coded to my original key.

 

BMW does not list a price for P/N 51257698204 'SET: REP.KIT F LOCK CYLINDER' as it 'has to be coded by the dealer'.

 

I coded my own for my R1150RT and am seeking options (other than lock and new key).

 

Garry

[Aussiegazza]

Just found an excellent link from bmwlt:

 

Here

 

It suggests you can buy PN 51257698204.

 

Or you can use the existing 'wafers' where they fit your key (with reduced security).

 

Anyway, anyone KNOW if you can buy the correct part?

 

Garry

[Alfred02]

1St, do you have the key for the 2nd hand top box?

If you do, then you are off to a good start.

It will enable you to pull the existing lock. Pulling the lock requires a bit of fiddly work and search the Internet for directions.

Once you have the lock out, you can swap around the wafers and if yours won't get your key to match, I highly suggest to take the lock to your local dealer. Mine had hundreds of wafers in plastic bags from all the locks they have done over the years and I am sure that yours wouldn't be any different.

It took mine to find the right wafers about 10 minutes including getting the lock to work.

The biggest time is involved to pull and re-install the lock, so if can do that, your dealer will either do it at no cost (good customer service) or charge you less the $20,- if he has any scruples.

[mountainmann]

There are only 3 different little tabs. You open the top case and remove the 4 screws inside the case opposite the latch assembly. This should allow you to access the back side of the lock. The bottom of the lock barrel has a single sliding metal tab that you push in to allow the lock to slide out of the barrel.

 

Without the key in the lock, the little tabs and springs will be loose, so slide the lock out carefully. Pay attention to which slots in the lock have the little sliding tabs in them. Each tab has a very tiny spring pushing it out. Remove all the tabs and springs. The tab that latches the lock barrel in place does not need to be removed. There is one slot that doesn't get a tab, so be sure to record which slot that is.

 

Sort the tabs into three piles numbered 1,2 and 3. Then put one spring and tab in the lock. Slide the key in. The surface of the tab should be perfectly flush with the outer barrel of the lock. If it isn't try a different number tab. When you find the right number, write it down on a diagram to show what tab number is needed for that slot location. Continue for all the slots. I think there are 4 on the top and 4 on the bottom. You number of 1,2 and 3 tabs that you have will probably not be the correct number needed for your key. You can ask your dealer for the ones you need, or just leave those slots in the lock blank.

 

Load all the tabs and springs in the lock. Slide in the key. Insert the lock in the barrel and slide it in. The end tab will snap in place and hold the lock in. Done.

[Tri750]

I tried watching that keying video. Brutal! So overly complicated I had to stop.

 

1. If you don't have the key, you can remove the lock with a tool I can loan you. Or a locksmith may have, or a dealer. Mine is made from an old hacksaw blade. It's currently in Quebec on loan.

 

2. The part number you have, ending in 204 is correct.

 

3. If your case has a lock in it, it's more likely it was ordered by VIN number and the wafers (tumblers) will not fall out. They are pinned in place.

 

4. The slot you must not put a wafer in is the second slot from the pointed tip of the new lock. If you do, your key will be easy to find because it will always be in the lock.

 

5. There is an "up" and a "down" on the cylinder. If you put the cylinder in, you are not "done" until you turn the key 45 degrees and tug on it. If the cylinder pulls out, you inserted it upside down. Try it again so the locking wafer tab ends up pointing upwards. Turn the key 45 degrees and tug again. If it's locked in, then you are done. Not doing this can cause your cylinder to drop out going down the road.

 

6. Let us know if your case has a lock cylinder in it already.

If you need any guidance, you can give a yell any time. My cell is 559-288-1490. Al

 

 

 

 

[Tri750]

Oh, in inserting the wafers, it's not trial and error.

You put the springs in on one side of the lock. Apply Vaseline to both lube the lock and hold the springs in place. Never mind the last two slots, remember?

 

Put all the "1" wafers in. Insert the key. Any wafers that are not perfectly flush top and bottom need to be swapped.

The higher the number, the deeper the wafer will sit in the lock. If the wafer is a bit too tall, try a 2 and so on.

Once that side is flush top and bottom, flip the cylinder over, using a finger to hold things together. (The Vaseline helps)

Insert more springs, put on some more wafers, adjust as before, making sure they end up flush top and bottom.

When done, double check the SECOND slot from the pointy end is empty. Insert a spring into the FIRST slot, insert the longer locking wafer, apply more Vaseline, and carefully insert the cylinder into the case while turning. The locking wafer will need to end up upwards. Do the lock in check above.

 

[Aussiegazza]

All great ideas and very helpful.

 

The lock is out and I will try using the current wafers, then talk to my dealer.

 

Thanks

 

Garry

[Tri750]

You really don't need all the wafers. Even 3-4 of them will be fine as long as they are all flush top and bottom. Just be sure to remove the tiny springs from the unused holes.

 

If your wafers are non-removable, meaning pinned in, there is an alternative way to use the cylinder, but it's not the best choice.

[Aussiegazza]

I found that the first three wafers were perfect more my key. Two of the remaining three fitted as well. ;-)

 

All good. Getting the chrome cover off the front of the lock to get at the release pin was the hardest part.

 

I put sticky tape over those that fitted to hold them in. Just allow a bit of slack so that you can get the key out.

 

Garry.

[Tri750]

Removing the chrome cover to pull the pin is the least desirable method of re-keying.

Unless you really crimped the cover on super tight, in the future it has a good chance of vibrating off in the bush somewhere. Then the pin falls out and so on.

there's another way of re-using a pinned cylinder but you're commited now.

Try to keep an eye on it

[Aussiegazza]

Removing the chrome cover to pull the pin is the least desirable method of re-keying.

Unless you really crimped the cover on super tight, in the future it has a good chance of vibrating off in the bush somewhere. Then the pin falls out and so on.

there's another way of re-using a pinned cylinder but you're commited now.

Try to keep an eye on it

 

What is the other method so that readers can be better informed on how to do it?

 

Only thing I can think of is grinding the wafers down with key inserted (except the last one.

[Tri750]

The other method is out on the Internet but not by me.

The grinding thing was ok back when the single cut keys were out. The tolerances were very loose on those old locks.

Now we have laser cut keys and 100.00 per hour labor rates.

The metal filings, even if flushed and blown out with air can remain inside the cylinder due to the required grease.

These filings can (and have) caused the locks to jam or give poor operation down the road and can stick to the key and make thier way into the ignition switch.

And so on.

For the 30-35 or so dollars for the correct re-key cylinder, why not do it right for ones brand new 25k motorcycle ?

 

 

[Aussiegazza]

I would rather have bought a re-key cylinder, but I could not find a place to buy them from. They were all 'dealer only'.

 

 

If anyone knows how to order them, then please post.

 

I am personally happy with the way I have done it, I am sure that I have the cap on tight.

 

Garry

[Tri750]

The part number you had in the first post is the correct one for the empty cylinder and wafers. The 51257698204

 

I don't know of any dealer that wouldn't sell you one. Did you ask?

[PadG]

Start with this one:

 

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=39089

 

Better yet, select from here:

 

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=56210&catID=&catname=&bindName=Top%20Case&bindCat=77_0673