Tupperware

[Rob L]

Can someone give me a quick class on how to remove the tupperware on my new bike? Where is the battery? Thanks for the help

[The Rocketman]

This might help for starters:

[The Rocketman]

Here's the other ones I was looking for:

http://www.bmrider.com/images/reports/R12RT%20Front%20Nacelle%20Removal%20Part%203.pdf

 

http://www.bmrider.com/images/reports/R12RT%20Bike%20Plastic%20Removal%20Part%201.pdf

[TEWKS]

Where is the battery?

 

Unsure if the links have shown this but the battery is on the right side as you sit on the bike. Two bolts to remove the lower engine cowling.

 

Edit... assuming this is a new wethead RT?

 

Pat

[Kathy R]

Can someone give me a quick class on how to remove the tupperware on my new bike? Where is the battery? Thanks for the help

 

Rob, you probably want to let folks know which year bike you are referring to? Your profile and signature line still show "2006".

[TEWKS]

Hi Kathy!

 

Pat

 

 

Hi Pat

[The Rocketman]

I was going based on the "Graphite 2006RT".

Sorry if I was mistaken.

[Rob L]

Can someone give me a quick class on how to remove the tupperware on my new bike? Where is the battery? Thanks for the help

 

Rob, you probably want to let folks know which year bike you are referring to? Your profile and signature line still show "2006".

2014 purchased through the buy back program

 

 

Sorry for the confusion and thanks, Kathy!

 

I still need help..........

[mileypop]

Can someone give me a quick class on how to remove the tupperware on my new bike? Where is the battery? Thanks for the help

 

Rob, you probably want to let folks know which year bike you are referring to? Your profile and signature line still show "2006".

2014 purchased through the buy back program

 

 

Sorry for the confusion and thanks, Kathy!

 

I still need help..........

 

Read the manual.... it's says it all in there.. section 7, page 136

 

[Rob L]

The reason I asked for help is that the manual is small, the pictures and instructions are not clear. This website has always been a great source of information and members have always been happy to share tips and try to make life easier for each other. Telling someone to "go read the manual" is something that I have not encountered here before.

[TEWKS]

Think he said "read the manual" with the section and page given. Maybe you read a little more into his reply then what was there? Did you find the battery yet?

 

 

Pat

 

 

[Rob L]

Found the battery. The manual doesn't show how to remove the rest of the tupperware. I would like to hardwire my Gerbing controller in and add a horn if I find room for it. I guess I'll start removing screws till I figure it out.

[PadG]

The reason I asked for help is that the manual is small, the pictures and instructions are not clear. This website has always been a great source of information and members have always been happy to share tips and try to make life easier for each other. Telling someone to "go read the manual" is something that I have not encountered here before.

You are getting spoiled!! javascript:void(0)

 

Here, look at this video. Be patience, it does include the tupperware removal for your bike:

 

[Kathy R]

The reason I asked for help is that the manual is small, the pictures and instructions are not clear. This website has always been a great source of information and members have always been happy to share tips and try to make life easier for each other. Telling someone to "go read the manual" is something that I have not encountered here before.

 

Rob, consider that newer people may not understand why this place works so well. Consideration and assistance are a big part of what has made this site a treasure.

 

Rob, you know the general rule about the tupperware, don't you? Be sure to put the same screw back in the same spot, when you replace the tupperware. At least, that is what I remember about the 2002. Not sure about the 2014. I imagine there aren't enough owners yet who have removed their tupperware, so hang in there. Perhaps you could contact your dealer and ask them if there are any tricks to the new bike?

 

[BarryBeemer]

Rob et al

I have removed the right side tupperware when I installed my clearwater lights. As Kathy said, be aware of the differences in the screws. They have slightly different length of "shoulders" on them depending on how many layers of plastic they are securing.

 

I used to have a 2002 and that was one piece of plastic. The 2014 comes off in three pieces so is a bit more of a challenge. I suggest getting a piece of cardboard, draw an outline of the bike on it and stick the screws into the cardboard as you remove them. (Not an original thought with me. Credit to Couchrocket.)

 

You do not have to remove the battery to get at the positive terminal. A positive power point is accessible when you remove the cover.

 

The last bit of advice on this has to do with how fragile the two plastic tabs are on the forward most piece. They were fragile on earlier bikes too, but these are VERY VERY fragile. Do NOT force them into the slots when reinstalling. I have already broken one and a new piece of plastic is $275!!!!!

 

Have fun!

 

[strataj]

I guess I've been busy; my plastic has been off several times more so on the right side. Take your time don’t force it, there are taps on some and push pins, easy to brake. As Kathy said best to replace the screws in the same location, some have a deep shoulder and you definitely don’t want to mix them up. The screws have a plastic washer to protect the painted surface easy to lose.

 

Jay

 

[Rob L]

The reason I asked for help is that the manual is small, the pictures and instructions are not clear. This website has always been a great source of information and members have always been happy to share tips and try to make life easier for each other. Telling someone to "go read the manual" is something that I have not encountered here before.

You are getting spoiled!! javascript:void(0)

 

Here, look at this video. Be patience, it does include the tupperware removal for your bike:

 

 

Thanks!! That is a great video and shows exactly what I needed

[Rob L]

I guess I've been busy; my plastic has been off several times more so on the right side. Take your time don’t force it, there are taps on some and push pins, easy to brake. As Kathy said best to replace the screws in the same location, some have a deep shoulder and you definitely don’t want to mix them up. The screws have a plastic washer to protect the painted surface easy to lose.

 

Jay

Unfortunately whoever did the 600 mile service at a shop in Florida was not very careful about assembly. I found the left side cover already had broken tabs and screws are not where they should be. I will find a way to secure the cover, probably using a small sheet metal screw and am checking the parts fische to replace the factory screws in their proper places

[strataj]

I guess I've been busy; my plastic has been off several times more so on the right side. Take your time dont force it, there are taps on some and push pins, easy to brake. As Kathy said best to replace the screws in the same location, some have a deep shoulder and you definitely dont want to mix them up. The screws have a plastic washer to protect the painted surface easy to lose.

 

Jay

Unfortunately whoever did the 600 mile service at a shop in Florida was not very careful about assembly. I found the left side cover already had broken tabs and screws are not where they should be. I will find a way to secure the cover, probably using a small sheet metal screw and am checking the parts fische to replace the factory screws in their proper places

 

Unfortunately I know your pain; this is a good part of why I do my own work.

 

You might want to go back to the dealer and tell them of your “discovery” and why you won't use them in the future. I think it’s good for them to know maybe they have a bad apple they need to replace.

 

Jay

[Freedom Outlaw]

Hi Rob:

 

I just added this horn today:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKKOK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It is not a loud as a Stebel but is Much louder than stock. A few words of advice. You will have to snip off the BMW connection but it is just two wires hot/ground.

 

Go in from the Top! I fooled around trying to go in through the bottom and got frustrated and decided to look at an alternate method. You will have to extend the leads about 6 inches but they clamp on with a connection supplied by Fiamm.

 

This horn got very good reviews from MCN and does not use a compressor so it is not likely to trigger a fault code because it has to pump up the reservoir.

 

It took me about two hours from start to finish with the learning curve. I'd dare say I could do it in 45 minutes now.

 

Oh and thanks Rocketman for the tupperware removal vid.

 

Regards,

 

FO

[Rob L]

My dealer didn't do the work (Grand Rapids BMW). They got the bike from BMWNA and it originated in Florida. Can't blame my dealer.

[hefy_jefy]

Be careful of that cunning little BMW plastic clip that holds the battery in. If you know how it works its easy if you don't the manual is not much help. After disconnecting the negative lead and rubber strap you need to left that clip and the battery slightly using the loop handle thingy, there's a small peg that then pops out from under and the clip comes away, you can then wiggle the battery out and disconnect the positive cable. Just fitted a power cable for my tire air compressor (the 12v power sockets won't take the current)

Geoff

[Rob L]

Thanks for the FYI. I just realized that I need to try my compressor on this bike!

 

[PadG]

Be careful of that cunning little BMW plastic clip that holds the battery in. If you know how it works its easy if you don't the manual is not much help. After disconnecting the negative lead and rubber strap you need to left that clip and the battery slightly using the loop handle thingy, there's a small peg that then pops out from under and the clip comes away, you can then wiggle the battery out and disconnect the positive cable. Just fitted a power cable for my tire air compressor (the 12v power sockets won't take the current)

Geoff

Rather than connecting to the battery terminal, why didn't you connect to the two terminals on the side of the frame? Isn't that what they are there for?

[Rob L]

My compressor runs from the BMW accessory outlet with no problem as long as the ignition is on.

[92232]

What 2 terminals?

 

Bill

 

[PadG]

What 2 terminals?

 

Bill

My '14 is gone, and the '15 isn't here yet, so I can't take a picture for you. I recalled a couple of terminals that were connected directly to the battery with fairly heavy gauge wires. I remember them because I was planning on connecting my fuse box right there.

[bwr]

I just added Clearwater lights last week and I used the positive terminal on the side of the battery holder. No need to remove the battery. The positive terminal has two heavy gauge red wires on it.

 

I got a faulty Clearwater wiring harness/controller, so they're sending a replacement. I'm going to have to swap it out whenever it arrives. I'll try to take a picture and post then.

 

And, FWIW, the Wunderlich video on removing tupperware posted earlier in this thread is FANTASTIC! I don't think that I would have been able to figure it out on my own. Contrary to what some have stated in this thread, all the tupperware screws are identical except for two on each side which are a little longer. The video clearly identifies which these are.

[strataj]

What 2 terminals?

 

Bill

 

There is a terminal for the positive see page 129 in the manual, use the negative battery post. No need to remove the battery.

 

Jay

[PadG]

Yep, that terminal is what I must have been thinking of!

[bwr]

Here's a pic. Terminal on the right with two reds on it is positive.

 

[bwr]

The last bit of advice on this has to do with how fragile the two plastic tabs are on the forward most piece. They were fragile on earlier bikes too, but these are VERY VERY fragile. Do NOT force them into the slots when reinstalling. I have already broken one and a new piece of plastic is $275!!!!!

 

I'll second this. I broke one last night Take extreme care!!

 

If I get a new side panel, how easy is it to move the "R1200RT" badge/rondel onto the new one?

[92232]

That is where I thought the terminals were that you were talking about, but not sure.

 

Bill

 

[hefy_jefy]

Hmm, well "Maximum rating of onboard sockets 10A, all sockets together" - my tire compressor pulls about 15A at start, rather than risk a blown fuse AND a flat tire I decided to play safe. I have a standard 2 pin connector on all my bikes so any one can jump the other, or run the compressor. Really not sure if I would want to mess with that terminal (also its not mentioned in my manual)

Geoff

[strataj]

Hmm, well "Maximum rating of onboard sockets 10A, all sockets together" - my tire compressor pulls about 15A at start, rather than risk a blown fuse AND a flat tire I decided to play safe. I have a standard 2 pin connector on all my bikes so any one can jump the other, or run the compressor. Really not sure if I would want to mess with that terminal (also its not mentioned in my manual)

Geoff

 

Geoff,

 

I have a few air pumps all worked fine. 15a sounds like a lot to me. Your WetHead doesn't have a fuse for the power outlet, it's regulated by the Cam Bus. If more than 10a is pulled it will turn off the outlet (not a blown fuse) just restart the bike (reset) all is well. I recommend testing your air pump and anything else you expect to use while traveling at home not on the road when needed.

 

I have a pig tail on my bike but I use it for my batter tender, it has a 3 or 5a fuse, I can’t use it for my air pump without the high chance of blowing a fuse.

 

Jay

 

[Larsman]

Hmm, well "Maximum rating of onboard sockets 10A, all sockets together" - my tire compressor pulls about 15A at start, rather than risk a blown fuse AND a flat tire I decided to play safe. I have a standard 2 pin connector on all my bikes so any one can jump the other, or run the compressor. Really not sure if I would want to mess with that terminal (also its not mentioned in my manual)

Geoff

 

I have a few air pumps all worked fine. 15a sounds like a lot to me. Your WetHead doesn't have a fuse for the power outlet, it's regulated by the Cam Bus. If more than 10a is pulled it will turn off the outlet (not a blown fuse) just restart the bike (reset) all is well. I recommend testing your air pump and anything else you expect to use while traveling at home not on the road when needed.

 

I have a pig tail on my bike but I use it for my batter tender, it has a 3 or 5a fuse, I can’t use it for my air pump without the high chance of blowing a fuse.

 

Jay

 

 

Stupid question guy here...Do the 15A compressors (at start) pull that even when unloaded during a test or will they really pull 15A only when trying to top off a tire already close to spec?

[Alfred02]

It's not a stupid question at all.

The compressor will load up as more back pressure it has.

So to really test it, is to let a few pounds of pressure out of lets say the rear tire and then pump it up to or above pressure.

That's when the pump is loaded the most and will draw higher "sustained" current.

The other time peak current is reached for an instant is when the pump actually starts up. At the very instance of start up, the electric motor is actually close to "short circuit". The only current limit is the resistance of the winding. This current will drop substantially in the moment the motor starts to turn.

This is the start up current.