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Left switch cluster FUBAR again


RandyBailey

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The left switch cluster was replaced at 4,000 miles and now, three weeks later at 6,000 miles, it is being replaced again.

 

I would have thought that the "new" version of the switch would have been installed last month. I wonder if this will be an every two thousand change out the switch situation?

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After the issue I just had with my bike....reading all these threads is really starting to scare me. Is this a BMW thing.... it seems you don't see as much of this with other brands :(

 

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The left switch cluster was replaced at 4,000 miles and now, three weeks later at 6,000 miles, it is being replaced again.

 

I would have thought that the "new" version of the switch would have been installed last month. I wonder if this will be an every two thousand change out the switch situation?

 

I had mine replaced August 2013. So far so good. My bike is a 2012. It is possible BMW is trying to empty out old stock as new and are taking their chances that it may work out. Give them hell and verify part numbers. Get the latest part number and see if you can look at the parts tag and see if a production date is listed on the parts tag. Shame on them if they were knowingly trying to peddle defective parts.

 

I live and ride in hot South Florida. If it would have failed due to heat it should have by now. Now that I mentioned this watch what happens the next time I take the bike out in the heat for a ride.

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It failed in exactly same order as before. The cruise control started disengaging on its own, then any time you clicked it to increase or decrease speed, then it failed completely.

 

GoAZ in Scottsdale, Arizona is a great dealer, but this will mean another wait for the part and another day in the shop.

 

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I had mine done yesterday and the new switch has a different part number ( I'll look it up on the receipt if you want it ) and looks different than the original.

 

The Cruise slide on /off switch is a bit angled as compared to the original straighter piece where you push it on. It's going to take some getting used to.

 

If yours looks the same as the original you may have just got another one of the bad ones. The good news is they warranty the new parts for 2 years.

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Dropped mine off this morning so the tech can determine the switch is faulty and they can then order the part. Then, in a few days it's back for a day to have the replacement switch installed.

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I haven't figured out the picture deal here, but the part number for my 2012 non ESA bike is -

 

61 31 8 546 207

 

Mine came in right under the wire, my warranty runs out at the end of the month!

 

The new switches are covered for an additional 2 years.

 

Checking my paperwork - I had to change the right side on 9/24/13 and had this one done 9/30/14. It seems those old switches just didn't like summer heat!

 

I'll keep trying to get a picture up.

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Okay, they determined yesterday that the new switch they installed three weeks ago was the old part number, even though they had ordered the new part number. Somehow no one caught the error. So, they have another switch cluster on order and will verify it's the new design switch before they do the replacement. Hopefully, I will get more than a month out of the next cluster...

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That's really bad luck. I hope the next one is the new part number!

 

I've got to say that signal lever seems much smoother on the new model, very nice.

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Steve Kolenda

That's interesting I'm due for my fourth switch and the service department tells me the part number has not changed. They are also hesitant to do the work on a Saturday because they say it's a 4 hour job and don't want to tie up a tech for that long on Saturday. Anyone know what's involved with the replacement?

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It was a long job and I was probably there for 4 hrs. They had quite a bit of the bike apart and had to reprogram for cruise, ASC etc.

 

Get a loaner for the day, or spend the time taking some demo rides. You can get the new part numbers for your bike off of the MAX Parts Microfische.

 

As I said in a previous post, my switch looks slightly different than the original. I can't imagine why they'd install the same problematic switches 4 times. Where have you been getting the work done?

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That's interesting I'm due for my fourth switch and the service department tells me the part number has not changed. They are also hesitant to do the work on a Saturday because they say it's a 4 hour job and don't want to tie up a tech for that long on Saturday. Anyone know what's involved with the replacement?

 

Interesting...I just had mine replaced on a Saturday AM. Didn't take much mire than 1-1.5 hours.

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That's interesting I'm due for my fourth switch and the service department tells me the part number has not changed. They are also hesitant to do the work on a Saturday because they say it's a 4 hour job and don't want to tie up a tech for that long on Saturday. Anyone know what's involved with the replacement?

 

Interesting...I just had mine replaced on a Saturday AM. Didn't take much mire than 1-1.5 hours.

 

When I had my switch replaced (left) the dealer told me the fuel tank has to be removed to access the connector at the end of the harness. I remember waiting about 2 to 3 hours for them to finish up. A couple of months later I made a stop at the dealer I purchased my RT. Different dealer. I spoke to a technician and I told him about the switch I had replaced and the details. He told me you can replace the switch without removing the fuel tank. A bit tight but it can be done rather quickly. I wonder if the dealer that changed my switch did the same and had me sitting around the shop thinking he removed the tank to complete the job.

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Having been left stranded by three switch block failures (and replacements),you can identify the new type by the fact that the high beam/flash is shorter than the old ones. This was a modification I was going to make myself, since I was getting fed up with accidentally flashing vehicles in front of me when using the clutch with thick gloves on.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

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While I was waiting I spoke with the Tech a couple of times while he was working. My tank was off along with the Tupperware.

 

I noticed the change in my Cruise on /off switch (angled) but hadn't noticed the shorter high beam lever. I'll take a look for that.

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6 speed - that looks like the switch that I just got. It does look like a shorter lever on the high beam and it has that same lower? - And slanted on off slide for the cruise. ( mine is a 2012 so it may have been different originally ).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my third left switch cluster installed today. Gave me a chance to ride an RTW for the day.

 

This switch looks different than the previous two switches, so I assume this is the new part number switch.

 

 

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It looks much different than the old switch. The gray on/off switch is narrower in the front and the high headlight switch is shorter.

 

9E239C48-F385-43B6-9F1C-B3D0D226C8F7_zpsuf2py9rk.jpg

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I was surprised my 2013 RT was built with the old switch as it appears it was assembled in September or October. Hopefully, this switch will last more than 2,000 miles!

 

I'm thinking our 120F / 49C summer temps were the reason the other two switches failed so quickly.

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The new left switch block is fairly easy to spot. As the horn switch sticks out a few more mm's, so that your thumb finds it quicker. It is very noticable.

 

Not sure if of all do this, but my hi-beam is much smoother operating too.

 

I noticed these differences on some of the new K1600's in the showroom too.

 

2012 RT

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  • 1 month later...

Rode by the dealership today and asked about a switch recall on my 2012 1200RT. According to my VIN number, both multifunction switch clusters need to be replaced under the latest recall whether you are having problems with them or not. The parts have been ordered.

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