Wildpiper Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 First, thanks to TEWKS and Kakugo for their advice to buy Jim Baden's video for 1200RT maintenance. (http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Camhead_R1200_2010-2013.html) I also bought a couple tools from Marc Parnes. I finally had the time this weekend to check my valves, and it was very easy and glad I checked. I did have one shim that needs to be changed out and have that one ordered. After I put everything back together. I put my key in and now it appears the bike has no power. I did check the battery and it does have juice. And the console did light up before I started maintenance. I checked another forum (http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74361) and some people has said it's a faulty ignition switch. Any idea what I may have inadvertently did? Thanks in advance. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Evening Wildpiper Check-- Kill switch= ON Side stand= UP Trans= Neutral If still no power post back. Link to comment
Wildpiper Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Hi DR, Yes on all. I decided to pull the battery and put it on the battery tender anyway. There is some chance, while the voltmeter indicated juice, the battery was low. Although the bike only has 7,300 miles on it. I just bought it a bit over a month ago. I can't remember now if I left the key turned while I was working on the bike. But even if I did, I didn't have it on for long while I did the valve check. - Pete Link to comment
Firenailer Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 If you were out in the sun while doing your service it might be the switch itself. If you have one of the bad ones that's when it shows up ( after extended heating in direct sun). Hopefully it will start after cooling. Link to comment
Wildpiper Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Yes I was actually, but it wasn't hot yesterday. The battery is still on the tender and just this morning did it start indicating it was more that 80% charged. I'm not sure what I did, but apparently the battery was mostly discharged even though the voltmeter read some juice. After I get home from work today I'll slap it back in and see what happens. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Morning Wildpiper Most newer batteries will indicate fairly good open circuit voltage even if run down (way over 12 volts even when almost flat) The best way to look at battery voltage is with the key on or even better yet with key & headlight on. Link to comment
Wildpiper Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Hi DR, I ran home during lunch, I just had to know. And yessir indeed, battery was way dead but after charging it for the last 15 hours or so helped. The bike started right up. So the mystery is what did I do to discharge the whole battery while I was checking the valves. That's what I don't understand. - Pete Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Afternoon Pete You might want to have your battery load tested (it can be done with battery still in bike). The OEM BMW supplied battery is sometimes not very long lasting. A load test should at least tell you if it is close to buying the farm. Usually the first sign of the BMW battery going out is slower cold engine cranking & the battery running down in just a few minutes with key on. Link to comment
tallman Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 And when they go, they go, and most aren't lucky enough to be in their garage so you may be lucky. Usually it happens a day or more from home. Good luck. Link to comment
Wildpiper Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Tim, Well tonight I finally hooked up the multimeter. I don't have a min/max function but I do think the voltage dropped below 9.6v when I started her up and trying to watch the readout. Time to get a new battery. - Pete Link to comment
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