Bevel drive pin wrench

[gusanito]

Anyone know the OD of the pin wrench used to remove the final drive threaded ring on an R1100RT? BMW has it as part# 33 1 700.

 

TIA

George

[bmweerman]

Not quite sure which part you are referring to?

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Anyone know the OD of the pin wrench used to remove the final drive threaded ring on an R1100RT? BMW has it as part# 33 1 700.

 

Got a homemade one at home; will meaure the dimensions tonight and get back to you.

[smiller]

I believe that the axle hub spindle wrench for a common Ford or Warn 4WD hub (can't remember the model, perhaps someone who knows will post it) will fit the BMW final input shaft drive locknut for a cost of less than $20. If Mitch can kindly provide the OD then you could probably match it up to a spindle wrench at your local auto parts store.

[gusanito]

 

Got a homemade one at home; will meaure the dimensions tonight and get back to you.

 

Thanks Mitch, I'd appreciate it.

 

 

I believe that the axle hub spindle wrench for a common Ford or Warn 4WD hub (can't remember the model, perhaps someone who knows will post it) will fit the BMW final input shaft drive locknut for a cost of less than $20. If Mitch can kindly provide the OD then you could probably match it up to a spindle wrench at your local auto parts store.

 

I found this link in my BMW folder and thought it may be it, but wasn't sure.

http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/drivetrain.html

Maybe someone who's used it can confirm it's the correct size. Regardless, with the OD I can whip one up and have it ready before I tear into the drive.

 

George

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I believe that the axle hub spindle wrench for a common Ford or Warn 4WD hub (can't remember the model, perhaps someone who knows will post it) will fit the BMW final input shaft drive locknut for a cost of less than $20. If Mitch can kindly provide the OD then you could probably match it up to a spindle wrench at your local auto parts store.

 

OK, here are the dimensions on my tool. Turned it from steel roundstock; the basic shape is like this:

 

 

but the dimensions are a little different.

 

OD = 2.585 inches

ID = 1.505 inches

four teeth at 90-degree intervals, tooth width is 0.235 inches.

 

Obviously the OD (ID) can be somewhat less than (greater than) the listed constraint, as long as the teeth are present and have the necessary strength to turn that seal carrier ring.

[MotoBoy]

That looks exactly like an early 70s New Process front axle outer bearing race wrench I used to own ... long since gone. Easier to make than to find one that fits the bike.

[smiller]

Easier to make than to find one that fits the bike.

 

Easier to make if you have the tools to work hard steel that is (or at least I think it had better be pretty hard since those little tabs are going to see a lot of torque.) Otherwise easier to find a commercial version.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Easier to make than to find one that fits the bike.

 

Easier to make if you have the tools to work hard steel that is (or at least I think it had better be pretty hard since those little tabs are going to see a lot of torque.) Otherwise easier to find a commercial version.

 

I'm sure it wasn't any particularly hard steel I was turning. If you look at the dimensions in my last post, the teeth may only be 1/4" thick in the tangential direction, but they're 1/2" in the radial direction. The seal carrier gets screwed into an aluminum housing, with plenty of lube nearby - IOW, no rust happening. All I can say is that the thing I made, with those dimensions, from a random hunk o'steel, worked without breaking.

[Larsen]

I've made many tube wrenches like that over the years using common steel pipe for overhauling helicopter main and tail rotor transmissions. I either drilled and filed or broached a square drive cap that I either welded or brazed on the end to fit a breaker bar or torque wrench. Never had one break!

 

I always figured I'd remake a newer tool from 4140 steel but rarely did as I never needed to, they never broke.

 

If all the teeth fit evenly in the nut grooves it will take a lot of torque. A steel ring press fit and welded (or brazed) around the end of the tube and teeth will strengthen the teeth and hold the wrench in place over the nut.

 

I use my vertical mills, lathes, and welding equipment to make the tools while in my shop but I've made them with common hardware hand tools when out in the field (Files, Drill, Propane or Mapp Gas, Brazing Rod).

[gusanito]

 

Easier to make if you have the tools to work hard steel that is (or at least I think it had better be pretty hard since those little tabs are going to see a lot of torque.) Otherwise easier to find a commercial version.

 

As long as the teeth are the correct size, you can torque it to the desired amount.

Ducati uses a pin wrench system for it's cam pulleys. One holds the pulley while the second one fits snuggly inside to tighten/loosen the pulley nut.

I made a set for the Duck using a piece of pipe for the outside one and a 3/4" socket for the inside one. The teeth were courtesy of a dremel. It took me all of an hour and cost me $1 for the Taiwanese socket at the flea market. Ducati gets $150 for the same tool. With Mitch's numbers I can do the same. Thanks, guys.

 

George

[smiller]

Hmmmm, OK, fair enough. Still, if the wrench on the web site for 18 bucks does the job I think I'll go that way... I think I'd spend $18 just in Dremmel bits getting mine to work...

[Pilgrim]

Hmmmm, OK, fair enough. Still, if the wrench on the web site for 18 bucks does the job I think I'll go that way... I think I'd spend $18 just in Dremmel bits getting mine to work...

 

Always the easy way out, eh, Miller? Betrays a very sad lack of character, sez I.

 

Now where was my Harbor Freight catalog?

Pilgrim