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12GS Tire change with pictures.


Jim VonBaden

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6700 miles, that’s all I got from my R1200GS Dunlop D607 Trailwings, also known as Deathwings. I have to say, from the beginning I wasn’t at all impressed by the handling, off road grip (or total lack of) and the noise. The tires were loud, and wore very quickly. I got 14K out of my Tourances on the heavier 11GS, so I was hoping for at least 10K from these, but no dice.

 

I decided to use Avon Distanzias since I had them on my 11GS and liked them then.

 

Anyhow, I thought some might find a tire change interesting, so here are a few pictures:

 

01-tire-change-14.jpg

Front tire off, and the bike supported by my $39 PepBoys bike jack.

 

01-tire-change-08.jpg

 

The tool I used to remove the front axel. It is a 22MM allen, and the back end of the spark plug socket was a perfect fit. Unfortunately the square drive hole wasn’t punched all the way through, so I used a 10” extension to break it loose from the other side.

 

01-tire-change-09.jpg

01-tire-change-10.jpg

I have heard the Craftsman 7/8” spark plug socket is also 22mm, and has the hole so you can put the extension through the socket, but this worked just fine.

 

01-tire-change-07.jpg

Using the bead breaker on the Harbor Freight tire changer. It works quite well, and very easily.

 

01-tire-change-06.jpg

Setup for the tire removal tool includes clipping on the rim protectors.

 

01-tire-change-05.jpg

First pull the top edge of the tire off with the included tire bar.

 

01-tire-change-04.jpg

Then pull the inside of the tire off. Make sure the rim protectors don’t slip out of place.

01-tire-change-13.jpg

A view of the front rim on the changer. Note that I used nylon strips, held in place with packing tape in the groves where the rim is clamped in place.

 

Soap up the tire and push it onto the rim. The bottom can simply be pushed on. The top requires a bit more work. I used Dawn dishwashing soap and a bit of water.

 

01-tire-change-11.jpg

Here is a poor shot of the rim protectors spaced around the rim in anticipation of “spooning” the tire on. I use a Motion Pro 14” tapered spoon to do the levering, and a cheap 8” spoon to hold my place when I reposition.

 

01-tire-change-12.jpg

I use a small C-clamp and a bit of leather to prevent the tire from slipping off as I work my way around.

 

Since my hands were full when spooning on the tire, I don’t have any shots of that. But it is simple, and only takes a couple minutes.

 

From start to finish, including rummaging around finding all my tools and needed parts, it only took me 2 hours to change my tires. Had this been my garage set up my way, it would have taken just over an hour.

 

Actually removing and installing the tires on the rims took only about 10 minutes each.

 

I spent a few minutes cleaning the rimes, and installed them back on the bike.

 

01-tire-change-15.jpg

01-tire-change-01.jpg

See the label I couldn’t get off?

 

I also installed the new TourTech Beak cover. It was a bit of a disappointment since I had to oval the holes to make it fit, and the paint quality was not very good for $91. But I like the way it looks anyhow.

 

Oh, and I took Ray back his Marc Parnes balancer, a 140 mile trip last night. It rides very nice, smoother, quieter, and easier turn-in. I only have one complaint. I wasn’t able to balance the rear wheel, and it might be off a tad. The 2” hole requires an adapter I didn’t have for the balancer.

 

Jim cool.gif

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excellant shots Jim. Here's a little something I made yesterday to remove the 22mm front axle.

3/8th's drive "stubby" extension welded to a 22mm nut.

 

fa81dd5d.jpg

 

oh,and a photo of the new bike! dopeslap.gif

f88bc8b8.jpg

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excellant shots Jim. Here's a little something I made yesterday to remove the 22mm front axle.

3/8th's drive "stubby" extension welded to a 22mm nut.

 

fa81dd5d.jpg

 

...

 

Sweet bike!

 

Are you in a position to make any more of those 22mm tools? The set-up I used works, but is a bit too big to carry around all the time, but what you have should work.

 

The dealer wants like $25 for the tool, and of course the kit is devoid of it.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

Jim cool.gif

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very interesting, clear and concise. thanks. have one comment...those are the cleanest GS rims i've ever seen! all the rest of you dirt devils should be ashamed. grin.gif

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Great pictures Jim! I've got the Harbor Freight Tools changer, but I don't have the rim protectors. If you don't mind my asking, where did you secure those?

 

Thanks,

Mike

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excellant shots Jim. Here's a little something I made yesterday to remove the 22mm front axle.

3/8th's drive "stubby" extension welded to a 22mm nut.

 

fa81dd5d.jpg

 

...

 

Sweet bike!

 

Are you in a position to make any more of those 22mm tools? The set-up I used works, but is a bit too big to carry around all the time, but what you have should work.

 

The dealer wants like $25 for the tool, and of course the kit is devoid of it.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

Jim cool.gif

 

Never thought about mass production...Ace hardware has the extensions $4.00 the nut $1.80 the local welder $5.00. Thats about it!

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Likewise, after 2,500 miles I'm not very impressed with the Dunlops. I have no idea on the wear at this point, but their noise made me wonder if something was wrong with my new bike, and I expected more from them off pavement. So, I'd be interested in your impressions of the Avons after you get some more miles on them. Please be sure to let us know how they work out.

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Jim, once again, thanks for your great writeup and pics on tire changes on the GS. I'm at 5900 miles on my Dunlops and agree that they are pretty good rim protectors tongue.gif.

 

My rear tire is pretty sqared off and the front has minor cupping, but not a lot of noise or vibration. I'd also be interested in your experience with the Avons, and with any other feedback on other choices (without starting another tire thread).

 

Looks like I'll be archiving another of your posts in my GS file! thumbsup.gif

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Yikes, $27, I may as well but the BMW tool. I found a socket, Craftsman 13/16 that will work. The drive for the 3/8 extension is accessable from either side, so I will use it from now on.

 

those are the cleanest GS rims i've ever seen! all the rest of you dirt devils should be ashamed.

 

The bike only has 6700 miles on it, and I cleaned them before I reinstalled them. The rest of the bike is a mess! grin.gif

 

Jim cool.gif

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What did you do for the rear balanacer?

I didn’t use anything, and the Avons have no dot indicating the heavy spot. I think I may have to have it balanced when I have my front brakes checked for squealing.

 

 

what no mojo bar??? noob!

Amazingly, the HF bar does a decent job of removing the tire, and I use tire irons to spoon it on, so no problems, and quite easy when you get the hang of it.

 

 

My rear tire is pretty sqared off and the front has minor cupping, but not a lot of noise or vibration. I'd also be interested in your experience with the Avons, and with any other feedback on other choices (without starting another tire thread).

Thanks, I appreciate your positive comments.

 

The D607 front still had about half tread, but was beginning to cup pretty badly. I noticed it especially at low speed cornering. The rear was gone. It flattened early, and the set made the steering heavier than it should be. They never really inspired confidence on the street, slipping occasionally on clean dry pavement. They were as bad as plain street tires off road.

 

The Avon Distanzias grip like Tourances, turn a little easier than Tourances, and a LOT better than the D607’s. They should get me a minimum of 10K miles.

 

Jim cool.gif

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$25ish, not too bad for snapon. :D

 

I've got an email into MrZoom. Ya think 22mm is close enough to the 7/8" the Buell uses? smile.gif

 

Steve, why don't you consider using a 7/8 hex Coupling Nut. They are about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 long. Just slip it in and use a socket on it. I'm thinking about doing the same with a 22m, as they come in metric too.

 

639667-nut.jpg

 

I do like the small one like Rich's for the onboard toolkit.

 

I'm making a McMaster Carr order soon, let me know if you want one.

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$25ish, not too bad for snapon. :D

 

I've got an email into MrZoom. Ya think 22mm is close enough to the 7/8" the Buell uses? smile.gif

 

Steve, why don't you consider using a 7/8 hex Coupling Nut. They are about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 long. Just slip it in and use a socket on it. I'm thinking about doing the same with a 22m, as they come in metric too.

 

639667-nut.jpg

 

I do like the small one like Rich's for the onboard toolkit.

 

I'm making a McMaster Carr order soon, let me know if you want one.

 

I originally looked for that kind of coupler but the local hardware store had nothing. Oh well...

Put me down for the T-27 and T-55 Torx "3/8th's drive" socket.

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But it's not chrome. CHROME!!!

 

Sure Ron, order me up one, McMaster Part Number: 90264A222 is 4" even.

 

I think this one would be better:

 

Part Number: 93020A783 1-9 Each $5.19 Each

10 or more $4.53 Each

Nut Type

Coupling Nuts

 

Coupling Nut Type

Hex

 

Material Type

Steel

 

Finish

Black-Finish

 

Grade/Class

Not Rated

 

System of Measurement

Metric

 

Thread Size

M12

 

Metric Thread Pitch

1.75 mm

 

Thread Direction

Right-Hand Thread

 

Width

22 mm

 

Height

32 mm

 

Thread Type

Standard Threads

 

Rockwell Hardness

Maximum C44

 

Specifications Met

Not Rated

 

Great idea, though the craftsman socket I got from Sears was only $3.99, and I can connect it directly to a 3/8" 2.5" extension and then a ratchet. Both of which are already in my tool kit. That way I don't also need another large (22mm) socket too.

 

Just a thought,

 

Jim cool.gif

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Great idea, though the craftsman socket I got from Sears was only $3.99, and I can connect it directly to a 3/8" 2.5" extension and then a ratchet.

 

Jim, I just bought one of those Craftsman 3.8-in drive 13/16-in spark plug sockets and it's just a tiny bit too big. I'd have to grind the flutes down for it to work.

 

Am I missing something here?

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What did you do for the rear balanacer?

 

For my R1200GS, I use the gizmo from Marc Parnes ( web page ) to balance the rear tire. Works great.

 

I already had a wheel truing/balancing stand and an assortment of different diameter rods to spin on, so all I needed was the plate that bolts to the wheel:

 

ba12.jpg

 

But, he sells everything you need, I think.

 

Marc is a GS owner too, and does nice work.

 

Bob

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Great idea, though the craftsman socket I got from Sears was only $3.99, and I can connect it directly to a 3/8" 2.5" extension and then a ratchet.

 

Jim, I just bought one of those Craftsman 3.8-in drive 13/16-in spark plug sockets and it's just a tiny bit too big. I'd have to grind the flutes down for it to work.

 

Am I missing something here?

 

No reason, though I did have one out of my three that was just a hair big. Maybe heavier chrome?

 

Jim cool.gif

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As usual, Jim, darn fine post and pics. thumbsup.gif

 

Slight threadjack here, but what screen is that? Like it?

 

It is a Cee Bailey's +2 +3 I believe.

 

01-GS-Cee-Baileys-Screen-cl.jpg

 

Jim cool.gif

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$25ish, not too bad for snapon. :D

 

I've got an email into MrZoom. Ya think 22mm is close enough to the 7/8" the Buell uses? smile.gif

 

Steve, why don't you consider using a 7/8 hex Coupling Nut. They are about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 long. Just slip it in and use a socket on it. I'm thinking about doing the same with a 22m, as they come in metric too.

 

639667-nut.jpg

 

I do like the small one like Rich's for the onboard toolkit.

 

I'm making a McMaster Carr order soon, let me know if you want one.

 

Ron, I just got one of these today (PN 90264A221) and it's a tiny bit too big. I ended up sanding the sides down until it did fit. If you have a belt sander, it should only take a few minutes to "resize" it.

 

The 22mm item Steve referenced should fit well, but may not be long enough at 32mm / 1.25". The one I ordered is 1.75" which cleanly fits inside the entire shaft and socket.

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