Clutch going?

[KTsRidin]

Okay, so what's going on when I'm in 4th or 5th gear (on my '97 RT) and I give it a good twist on the throttle ... I can hear the motor picking up but I'm not getting any real pull like when I'm in a lower gear? Is my clutch going or is something adjusted wrong? I've been riding this puppy for a while (+40K ) and unless my riding style has changed, I don't think I'm doing anything differently. And for all you detectives, about 4 months ago I was riding and got a thumpping noise when I was letting out the clutch into 1st gear. Related?

[Paul Mihalka]

Well, the way you describe it, you DO have a slipping clutch. Question is why? It could be adjustment. If you have any play at the clutch lever, it should be OK. It could be just wear and tear, but at 40K miles, unlikely. So probably you have a bad oil seal that leaked oil onto the clutch. Often the gearbox input shaft seal, some times the engine crankshaft seal. Any which way, you will need the oil seal replaced and you will need a new clutch.

[Les is more]

Hiya Kirsten!!!

 

Mine was a blown seal at 39,000 miles.

[SWB]

<slight hijack>Is there any way to check the clutch other than pulling the rear end of the bike apart? One thread was talking about removing the starter and checking splines through the hole where the starter engages the flywheel (??). Anyone know if it's possible to check how worn the clutch is, or whether the friction plate is fouled with oil, other than disassembly?

 

Just wondering..

[Stan Walker]

Is my clutch going or is something adjusted wrong?

 

If you haven't checked the adjustment, that would be a good place to start.

 

Stan

[Stan Walker]

<slight hijack>Is there any way to check the clutch other than pulling the rear end of the bike apart?

 

If the engine revs and the bike doesn't speed up then the clutch is slipping. It can be the adjustment, mechanical problem, oil on the plates, or worn out friction disc.

 

Start by checking the adjustment, there should be free play in the cable at the lever. You hydraulic guys don't have this adjustment.

 

Check for cable binds. That free play at the lever must allow the actuating mechanism to fully relax at the clutch end of the cable. Hard to tell on the hydraulic units.

 

One thread was talking about removing the starter and checking splines through the hole where the starter engages the flywheel (??).

 

That was me, it didn't work out very well for checking friction disc thickness. The edges of the pressure plates were not level with the working surface. It is a valid method for checking splines in my opinion.

 

Anyone know if it's possible to check how worn the clutch is, or whether the friction plate is fouled with oil, other than disassembly?

 

Pull the starter. You can inspect the edges of the plates and look for oil. Also it will be easy to check that the mechanism is working without binds.

 

You won't be able to judge the amount of friction disc wear. But if you don't find any other cause for the clutch slipping, a worn friction disc or an overheated and now weak diaphragm spring would seem the most likely cause.

 

At that point you might as well bite the bullet, order up the parts, and start tearing it down. Very educational project.

 

While you are in there you can also inspect / lube all the splines (4 sets), check the 'U' joints (2), and replace the final drive pivot bearings (2).

 

Stan

[KTsRidin]

Since I got the bike used and it's now got almost 78K in miles, it sounds like Paul might be right on track. Been 'talkin' with Fernando re: Works shocks so it might be time just to visit Morton's and have them go at it. Some day I'll have a "gearhead mentor" close by who can walk me through this stuff, but I don't think I'm up to tearing the whole thing apart without knowledgeable eyes close by. Of course, if I could get the time off I’d pop out to CA and ask Leslie to give me a hand (and maybe we’d let Jamie in on the fun).

 

Cheers you all – thanks!

[SWB]

At that point you might as well bite the bullet, order up the parts, and start tearing it down. Very educational project.

 

While you are in there you can also inspect / lube all the splines (4 sets), check the 'U' joints (2), and replace the final drive pivot bearings (2).

 

Right you are. Have been talking about this for six months. I went from riding the bike about 80 miles a day four months ago to about 80 miles a month, so the urgency dropped. But I still have annual maintenance items to do along with the clutch, splines, fuel regulator, etc., so I have to get to it, and it should be a lot of fun. My "planned maintenance" and reference links are in a text document several pages long. I do need to start working up the parts list, though, and get the parts into my garage.

 

My problem is that I'm a "linear" guy. Once I get started, this project is going to "own" me until it's done, so I want to make sure I've got a clean desk (and garage) when I start the project.

 

Thanks a bunch for the tips, Stan.

[KTsRidin]

Hi All,

 

Just wanted to say, at just under 75,000 miles, Morton's BMW replaced my cluch last week. Seal gone. Now, I feel like I have a new bike! It's crisp and responsive. I didn't realize how rough it had gotten.

 

Thanks for all your input and advice!

Kirsten

[Eschelon1]

It could be the rubber bushing inside the driveshaft. If it breaks loose, it sounds & feels like the clutch is slippingbut you won't get the burnt clutch smell. It's relative cheap & easy fix, just replace the driveshaft.