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Front Wheel Alex Removal Tool


Nathan Margolis

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Nathan Margolis

I have a '13 RT and replaced the front tire over the weekend. Thought I was in trouble pulling off the wheel when it was noticed the axle was hollow and it looked like one of those special expensive BMW tools would be needed for removal.

 

Found an old 13/16th sparkplug socket with the end machined for a box end wrench (very common socket)if you choose not to use a rachet. The 13/16th end fits nicely in the axle. Loosen up the locking bolt on the fork tube, attach vise grips to the socket, and turn the bolt. Axle bolt is only about 20-25 foot pounds if not mistaken and makes for an easy turn with vise grips.

 

Another way is picking up a bolt with a 13/16th head, pick up two patching thread nuts for the bolt, thread both onto the bolt, tighten nuts in opposite directions, and place head of bolt into the axle for removal. Using this homebuilt tool, one could use a torque wrench for proper spec tighten.

 

 

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Found an old 13/16th sparkplug socket with the end machined for a box end wrench (very common socket)if you choose not to use a rachet. The 13/16th end fits nicely in the axle. Loosen up the locking bolt on the fork tube, attach vise grips to the socket, and turn the bolt.

 

You found the first half of the solution. Instead of vise grips, put the socket on the end of an extension, backwards. That is, put the extension in from the 13/16" end. This lets you use your ratchet handle and torque wrench.

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For a small price get the right tool for the job. We are talking about a front wheel. At what price are you willing to settle for riding down the highway at 70 plus MPH? Proper torquing is critical on the wheel bolt and the pinch bolt.

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And the wrong tool can chew up the axle, also.

That tool that KER has will fit 2 or 4 different sizes, and those fit more than just the BMW. I know they fit the Hayabusa and probably a few other bikes as well.

dc

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I found a 21mm long hex. I cut it to about 3" long and keep a 21mm socket to drive it. The socket fits on my torque wrench too.

 

I found it strange that the tool kit in my 12 R1200R doesn't even have tools to remove front and rear wheel. It does now.

 

David

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good tips. As long as it fits tight with no slop, it will do the job. Agree it's important on the install to be able to torque to specs....with a quality calibrated torque wrench. ( not the $39 versions).

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Dave_in_TX
Agree it's important on the install to be able to torque to specs....with a quality calibrated torque wrench. ( not the $39 versions).

 

Although the durability of the cheap torque wrenches may be questionable, there an old thread on this DB that indicates their accuracy is good enough. Some posters checked accuracy of some cheap torque wrenches using calibration equipment or against expensive torque wrenches. The cheap wrenches did fine.

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Nathan Margolis

Cheap torque wrenches do fine for what most of us are doing. Have checked my cheap one with a high dollar and right on. Sure there are some that are slightly off but have purchased expensive caliperation equipment and had them off too. We are not building $10,000 race engines. If I was twisting on head bolts, main bearing caps, or even rod bearing caps- yea then I might purchase a top end wrench or borrow one.

Working on my ole '73 Triumph the other day (pulled front wheel for new tire)and looking for torque specs for axle and end caps. There are none anywhere. They address by saying "tighten until snug" or "tighen until very secure". Bet you old Harley manuals say the same.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The reason I started riding Beemers is the fact that these are quality built bikes.

The reason that I do all the work on my own bikes and cars is the fact that I want it done right.

Why work on these bikes with vice grips other tools that were not made for BMW bikes?

 

I say if you work on your own bikes, BMW or other, get some decent tools. Also, regarding torque wrenches, you'll need at least 2 or 3 wrenches if you do all your own work on the bike. Small wrench for the lower torque range and bigger wrenches for the bigger fasteners.

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Found an old 13/16th sparkplug socket with the end machined for a box end wrench (very common socket)if you choose not to use a rachet. The 13/16th end fits nicely in the axle. Loosen up the locking bolt on the fork tube, attach vise grips to the socket, and turn the bolt. Axle bolt is only about 20-25 foot pounds if not mistaken and makes for an easy turn with vise grips.

 

Axle torque for the M24x1.5mm axle is 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

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No need to use a vice grips, use a short extension into the female hex end of the socket. Perfect fit, can use a torque wrench or standard ratchet.

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No need to use a vice grips, use a short extension into the female hex end of the socket. Perfect fit, can use a torque wrench or standard ratchet.

 

I use an aluminum tool made by Marc Parnes. You can take it with you in the tool kit and use a pin or wrench if you need to remove the wheel on the road. You can torque it later with torque wrench and regular socket.

 

Marc Parnes

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Morning------

 

Or, simply buy a 5/8" rod coupling nut (those are 13/16"od & about 2-1/4" long (about $3.00 @ Lowes or Homedepot).

 

They can be as cheap as $1.89 at some do-it-yourself stores.

 

The coupling nut works great, easy to carry & IF you drill a hole through one end you can use anything

from a screwdriver, to a nail, to ??? to slide through the hole & undo the axle.

 

If like me & every ounce added to a bike makes a difference then drill the center out to a larger hole

size (basically core it) & drill a few more side holes. It then weighs next to nothing & is easy to carry.

 

At only a few dollars each you can squirrel one away on your bike (or bikes) & put one in each home

tool box so you don't have to dig around in your bikes tool kit at every front tire change.

1HU94_AS01_zps836be42f.jpg

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Or you can just drill a hole through your reversed socket and stick a screwdriver through it. However, at home I used my short socket extension and the torque wrench.

 

Misc003.jpg

 

Misc004.jpg

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I use an aluminum tool made by Marc Parnes. You can take it with you in the tool kit and use a pin or wrench if you need to remove the wheel on the road. You can torque it later with torque wrench and regular socket.

 

Marc Parnes

 

I'm always amazed at how light that tool is.

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I use an aluminum tool made by Marc Parnes. You can take it with you in the tool kit and use a pin or wrench if you need to remove the wheel on the road. You can torque it later with torque wrench and regular socket.

 

Marc Parnes

 

I'm always amazed at how light that tool is.

 

That's right, weighs next to nothing and fits perfectly with the rest of the tools underneath the seat.

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Am I the only one who thinks BMW should include the tool in the tool kit of a $20,000 motorcycle?

 

Wasn't BMW once known for providing a good quality tool kit?

 

pete

'11 RT

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Evening Pete

 

The big thing in motorcycles now is low advertised weight, less weight than an older model, less weight than a competing model.

 

If BMW puts extra tools in the bike's tool kit they then have to include that in the bike's advertised weight.

 

If they leave tools out of the tool kit that not only lowers the bike's advertised weight but saves the company money to boot (win/win for the MoCo).

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