wvpc Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Last year while on a 3 week tour I noticed my emergency flashers would not operate on my 2012 RT with 18K miles. So I finished out the tour, got home, and hooked up the GS-911 to see if I could find the fault. When I toggled on the emergency flasher via the GS-911 software (did not touch the switch) much to my surprise the flashers began operating again. I never did find any fault. So I finished out the season without doing anything else to the flasher and contemplated if I should contact the dealer. Well no more. After the long winter layover my flashers are inoperable again. My dealer, BMW of S.E. Michigan has ordered a new switch for me, no questions asked, without even looking at the bike. I am not going to hook up the GS-911 again in fear of the switch operating correctly again. Has this intermittent issue happened to anyone else? Link to comment
na1g Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 It's well documented that the switch clusters on the camhead RTs are a failure waiting to happen, if they haven't already. BMW dealers replace them by the boatload, not just for the emergency flasher switch but for turn signals and horn, too. You'd have to check the part numbers to see if a new, improved version made it onto the production line at some point and if the new, improved version is being used to replace the original switch clusters. Sadly, it's another example of BMW's lack of concern for a defective product, that they did not address this issue immediately - in my opinion. pete 2011 RT Link to comment
Guest Kakugo Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 BMW changed the switch supplier last year because the new design was simply causing too many failures, something that was driving warranty costs up. All switches shipped to dealers (and installed on new bikes at the factory) since October should be the new and supposedly improved model but double check with your dealer before opening the plastic envelope: old parts sometimes stay in the system even after they had been officially withdrawn. In that case ask them to send the part back and get a new one. Remember the new part comes with a two year warranty... just saying. Link to comment
Selden Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Having recently replaced the left hand switch assembly on my 1999 RT, I'm wondering if BMW is still sending headlight current through the switch, rather than through a relay. Link to comment
Firenailer Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 The switches are known to fail, I was actually at the dealer when my right side ignition switch failed. They ordered the part and swapped it out without any problems since. And I did say Right side, so you might want to ask them if they would consider doing both at once. Just sayin'... Link to comment
racer7 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 The GS-911 isn't closing the switch on the bar to activate the flasher. Not a switch test. Link to comment
lkchris Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Having recently replaced the left hand switch assembly on my 1999 RT, I'm wondering if BMW is still sending headlight current through the switch, rather than through a relay. Not on Canbus systems Link to comment
garr2 Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 As previously stated, the switches are a known weakness. Under warranty I have replaced the left switch cluster twice (blinker, cruise control) and the right hand cluster once (start). The start switch failing was a real problem - 800 km from home and my wife as pillion. The last time I had a switch block replaced was 3 months before the warranty was due to expire so I asked the BMW dealer what happens if either switch fails after the warranty has finished. I was 'reassured' that BMW would look after me. I would suggest owners regularly check the operation of each switch - there are 10 altogether on a 2012 R1200RT SE. The cruise control (which in the previous tally i counted as one switch) has 2 on/off positions, 1 set position, i increase set speed position & 1 decrease set speed position. MIne recently failed in the decrease set speed position. I have also heard that some switch failures only happen on hot days. There is also a work around for a start switch failure - http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78978 Now they tell me! Ian Link to comment
wvpc Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Well finally the new left hand switch cluster has been installed and everything on the bike is operating normally. It took the dealer about 2 hours for the replacement installation and I was out the door. Gotta love that warranty. After 25K miles that has been my only problem with the RT (other than two headlight bulbs). Garr2 - I could not access you link to the start switch work around. Link to comment
garr2 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 wvpc Try the link again. It just worked for me. Ian Link to comment
biometrics Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Having recently replaced the left hand switch assembly on my 1999 RT, I'm wondering if BMW is still sending headlight current through the switch, rather than through a relay. I think so Selden. The wiring diagram for OUR year RT (1999) shows that the only relay in the headlight circuit is the load relief relay that shuts down the headlight during the start engine process. No Fuse, and No Relay. Pretty Stupid electrical engineering for a high amperage circuit if you ask me... If anyone needs the wiring diagram for the R1100RT, PM me your email and I will send it to you -John Link to comment
wvpc Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks Ian. http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78978 won't let me log on ie: 404 I think I overstayed my welcome and need to join them. On another note when the dealer swapped out the L hand switch they forgot (or it fell out) the little plastic pin that goes on the top of the L hand fairing panel. I know the tech and he is a pretty good guy so...I have a spare but now need to disassemble the L hand side. I hate it when anybody else works on my bike. Link to comment
TinCup Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Looks like my LH switch just died. No horn, windshield wont lower and right turn wont work. Bike only has 1500 miles. Start button on the other side is acting up too. My problem is a live 100 miles from the closest dealer and dont want to drive that far with no horn. Anyone taken the LH cluster off? What size are the two screws and how do you take it off. My hope is the dealer will send me one Link to comment
RandyBailey Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Tuesday night I left Philly for Phoenix on a 2013 RT. I have ridden in the rain the majority of the trip. Just before I pulled into Albuquerque tonight the cruise control started canceling itself, then quit. I'm wondering if the switch got wet? The bike had 1,100 miles on it when I left and had been garaged. Looks like a trip to the dealer when I arrive in Phoenix. Link to comment
6speedTi Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Tuesday night I left Philly for Phoenix on a 2013 RT. I have ridden in the rain the majority of the trip. Just before I pulled into Albuquerque tonight the cruise control started canceling itself, then quit. I'm wondering if the switch got wet? The bike had 1,100 miles on it when I left and had been garaged. Looks like a trip to the dealer when I arrive in Phoenix. The switch is pretty tough on the waterproof side. As far as reliability it sucks. Your switch went bad by design. Go and have it replaced under warranty. By now all the dealers should have the latest switch which seems to be performing rather well. My 2012 failed like yours. One day the cruise control did not turn on. The on/off switch failed on the switch block. The failures have been various from cruise control to turn signals to windshield control. Link to comment
Karlington1 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Mine was the windshield control...the new one feels much different than the original. I kind of liked the feel of the original, especially the turn signals; maybe that is why it failed? Ha! Link to comment
RandyBailey Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Just came from the dealer in Scottsdale... Left switch cluster FUBAR at 3,000 miles on my 2013 RT. They ordered a new switch cluster. Cruise control died. Link to comment
walton66 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Bummer, I was hoping I wouldn't have to be concerned about my 13. Link to comment
mneblett Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Sometime in late 2012(?) BMW replaced the new metal-traces-applied-directly-to-the-plastic surface switch clusters (which tend to lose connectivity when the plastic expands in the heat and the traces separate) with the older technology metal-traces-on-a-sheet technology, eliminating the thermal expansion breakdown problems by separating the wires from the plastic switch cluster's inner surfaces -- a totally reliable design. I understand that at least some of the early 2013's had the bad design (lots of 2012 and some 2013 K16's had the problem, too, as well as my early 2012 RT). Annoying, but once the bad ones fail (and only a percentage do) and are swapped out under warranty, the issue is completely "fixed." Link to comment
walton66 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Good info Mark, thanks ! Link to comment
RandyBailey Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Dealer told me to expect a 2 week wait for the switch. Are they back ordered? Link to comment
Marty Hill Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 That would be a good guess. Link to comment
RandyBailey Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Now, the ESA switch is kaput... Thinking of parking my RT until the switch arrives. Link to comment
RandyBailey Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 The dealer finally received the left switch so it goes in the day after Labor Dry for installation. Link to comment
cris nitro Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I just picked up a 2010 RT the other day and am having problems activating the preload setting with the ESA switch. The switch adjusts the damping position just fine, but I cannot get the preload to change. I hold the button down for a long time trying to get it to switch mode, but no luck. Is it possible I have a switch failure, or am I doing something wrong? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Afternoon Chris Did you have engine running & trans in neutral? Link to comment
cris nitro Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Afternoon Chris Did you have engine running & trans in neutral? Morning DR. Yes I believe so, but will try it again when I get home this afternoon. I'm guessing that if the button is activating the dampening, then the switch is prob OK? Link to comment
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