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Paging Dirtrider and his esteemed colleagues


OlGeezer

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2012 GSA, 16k miles, 20 months in the garage.

 

I installed a Touratech headlight guard. After the installation, I check out the headlight to see if there is any difference to the light throw. I notice one of my fog lights is out. I pull out the bulb and find that it is a 55w H11. I go down to my local auto parts store, realizing that colors will be different, I buy two Sylvania Ultra bulbs. I take the bike for a test ride (side note: It was a beautiful night for a ride. 74F at 8:30 pm) and, almost immediately, I notice my left front flasher is out and I have a quick blink at my turn signal indicator. Soon thereafter, I get a "1FLASH" on my instrument panel followed by "2FLASH", then "3FLASH" and finally "4FLASH". The instrument panel cycles through several times until I return home.

 

I pull out the offending turn signal bulb. The filament looks fine. I swap it with the right bulb and same problem. Left turn signal does not work. I connect my GS911 and get a 41797 fault code (left turn signal). I clear fault codes and test again. Sure enough, I get 41797 once again.

 

When I installed the headlight protector, I had to remove the turn signal stalks, but not very far. Could I have possibly unplugged a connector or lost ground connection?

 

Are the Sylvanias unsuitable even though they are the same spec (H11, 55w) as the OEM bulb?

 

What do I do next?

 

Thank you,

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Morning OlGeezer

 

It does sort of sound like you might have pulled a wire loose from the T/S connector.

 

Probably doesn't matter but do you have the LED T/S lights or standard T/S lights?

 

You might start by tracing the pig tail wire from the L/F turn signal back to the push-together connector then make sure all wire terminals are fully seated & fully pushed together. Pay special attention the (return) brown-wire side.

 

Have you tried riding with the fog lights turned OFF?

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Morning OlGeezer

 

It does sort of sound like you might have pulled a wire loose from the T/S connector.

 

Probably doesn't matter but do you have the LED T/S lights or standard T/S lights?

 

You might start by tracing the pig tail wire from the L/F turn signal back to the push-together connector then make sure all wire terminals are fully seated & fully pushed together. Pay special attention the (return) brown-wire side.

 

Have you tried riding with the fog lights turned OFF?

 

Thank you for your reply, DR!

 

Standard T/S light.

 

Yes, my test ride last night included both fog lamps on and off. BTW, they work great!

 

I will check the T/S connector. It's a little difficult to get to. I have to hang upside down!

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If the wire is disconnected, it is in the stalk. The other end is zip tied and there is no way it could have become unplugged. Now, I need to take the assembly apart. It sure is delicate. As a general statement, the fasteners on my 2012 BMW are much lower in quality than they were on my 2002 BMW.

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DR - the dealer has just informed me that the bikes are pretty sensitive to non-OEM bulbs. Do you think that using the Sylvania Ultra bulbs could be the problem? If so, do you think disconnecting my fog lamps and clearing out the fault codes would tell me if this is the culprit?

 

Thank you,

 

 

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Afternoon OlGeezer

 

With the fog lights turned OFF the computer could care less what bulbs are in those lights.

 

With your L/H front t/s acting up I would assume your problem lies with that.

 

Might be as simple as the wires going into the L/front T/S stalk are pulled out slightly therefore pulling the (spring loaded) socket contacts away from the bulb base contacts. (maybe try pushing the wires into the stalk slightly)

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terryofperry
DR - the dealer has just informed me that the bikes are pretty sensitive to non-OEM bulbs. Do you think that using the Sylvania Ultra bulbs could be the problem? If so, do you think disconnecting my fog lamps and clearing out the fault codes would tell me if this is the culprit?

 

Thank you,

 

 

Now that is funny, one of the most highly regarded lighting companies in the world.

 

Terry

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Afternoon OlGeezer

 

With the fog lights turned OFF the computer could care less what bulbs are in those lights.

 

With your L/H front t/s acting up I would assume your problem lies with that.

 

Might be as simple as the wires going into the L/front T/S stalk are pulled out slightly therefore pulling the (spring loaded) socket contacts away from the bulb base contacts. (maybe try pushing the wires into the stalk slightly)

 

Thanks. I'll try that. I agree with your assessment.

 

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Afternoon OlGeezer

 

With the fog lights turned OFF the computer could care less what bulbs are in those lights.

 

With your L/H front t/s acting up I would assume your problem lies with that.

 

Might be as simple as the wires going into the L/front T/S stalk are pulled out slightly therefore pulling the (spring loaded) socket contacts away from the bulb base contacts. (maybe try pushing the wires into the stalk slightly)

 

That technique did not work. The blades are perpendicular to the stalk and parallel with the bulb. I managed to get the reflector out and found the outside (longer) wire disconnected. I reconnected it, did a quick test and put it back together. I was able to clear the fault codes. Life is good once again.

 

That whole assembly sure feels cheap!

 

Thanks for your help.

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ncsonderman
As a general statement, the fasteners on my 2012 BMW are much lower in quality than they were on my 2002 BMW.

 

That is disconcerting.

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DaveTheAffable
...I managed to get the reflector out and found the outside (longer) wire disconnected. I reconnected it, did a quick test and put it back together. I was able to clear the fault codes. Life is good once again.
Sounds like OlGeezer is gonna be hosting a tech day.

 

 

:wave:

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That whole assembly sure feels cheap!

 

Usually light is expensive.

 

Germans have put lots of effort into reducing weight of wiring in recent years.

 

One side effect is likely that it's less immune to ham fistedness.

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That whole assembly sure feels cheap!

 

One side effect is likely that it's less immune to ham fistedness.

 

If that's true, I'm in trouble.

:dopeslap:

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BMWs ground connector spades at light sockets have been easy to knock loose for a long time- they're not robust even on simple tail lights in any of the 5 BMWs in our garage. I've had one vibrate off in normal highway riding.

I'd rather see an in line waterproof connector with wires brazed/soldered at the sockets but that would no doubt add a few pennies.

 

Germans have never been any good at light sockets or fuses.

Can't even count the number of corroded old style fuses I've changed or the crappy bent metal bulb connectors I've rebent on expensive German cages.

My latest example is my own VW Passat TDI. VW decided they needed a new bulb socket so invented a plastic piece that holds the bulb and plugs into the connectors that are part of the plastic headlight housing. Its unreliable - bulb socket to headlight housing connections fail regularly- and they've already redesigned the part to try to make it reliable. And replaced headlight housings in mine. Just one more example of "brilliant" German engineers creating a problem trying to save a couple pennies solving a non-existent problem. If you want reliable electrics, buy J brand or Korean stuff. Sure, its crude, but it keeps working.

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Afternoon Racer

 

Sounds like you don't ride a GS off road.

 

That BMW wiring set-up works just about right for off road usage. I have never had one come loose on its' own (nor anybody else I know).

 

But I have ripped a few turn signal housings off (as well as others that I know ) & they come off clean without damaging the bikes main wiring harness.

 

I would rather have one disconnect inside the housing than rip the connector off the main wire harness.

 

Maybe BMW put more engineering into this area than you think.

 

 

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