ESA or not?

[duckbubbles]

I will be replacing my shocks fairly soon so my question is:

Do I continue with ESA (probably Wilbers) or get standard (non-ESA) aftermarket shocks? Cost isn't really too big a concern.

 

What happens to the bikes system with the ESA disconnected- will I have some flashing icon forever?

 

Except for the convenience of push button adjusting, I have always set up the suspension to handle (probably 90%+ of my riding) and just live with it on the freeway.

 

Any thoughts and opinions will help me decide.

 

Ohlins does not seem to have a listing for a 2011 RT. I haven't checked to see if Wilbers has an option for non-ESA.

 

Frank

[Paul In Australia]

Interesting you are contemplating changing the shocks after only 6000 miles?

My 2008 needed new shocks by 60k miles so I changed for Wilbers non ESA then. My 2013 has ESA ( so did the 2008 when new) and when it comes time to change out I will this time go foran ESA shock, probably Wilbers.

I find it very convenient.

Regards

Paul

[duckbubbles]

6000 miles with me on it. 25K mi. since new.

 

The ESA is working ok, still. I just don't particularly like the settings choices. I feel I will be able to tune non-ESA shocks to what I really like. I will say that a Wilbers ESA upgrade would out perform the stock setup (IMHO).

 

Frank

[John in VA]

Ohlins does not seem to have a listing for a 2011 RT.

Frank

 

Ohlins are available for any recent RT. The 05-13 are all the same.

 

I bought my 13 RT last year with ESA (no choice) and installed Ohlins myself before I hit 1000 miles. I paid $1570 to Hardracing.com, set up for me and shipped.

 

My 06 RT had ESA and also installed Ohlins (also from Hardracing). And my 2000 RT too. I really have no use for ESA, since premium shocks set up for the rider perform perfectly for any kind of riding without the ESA push button stuff. For two-up riding just twist a dial. The 14 RT ESA may be more technically capable than previous years as far a damping control, but earlier stock BMW shocks are junk, IMO.

 

Regardless, installing non-ESA shocks will not show any error code on your dash.

[duckbubbles]

Since I have a little time before I make a final decision- it's good to know that removing the ESA shocks won't create problems. The non-ESA option is what I have been thinking about since I decided to upgrade.

 

I've had Ohlins on the '85 K100/1100RS, '92 K100RS, '96 Ducati 900SS/SP, '99 R1100S and Wilbers on the '05 R1200ST. On performance, they are equals, but everyone and their brother works on Ohlins- I've got a guy here in town. That may sway the decision.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Frank

 

[malcolmblalock]

I went Hyperpro/ESA to have the best of two worlds. Good combination for me.

[duckbubbles]

I bought my 13 RT last year with ESA (no choice) and installed Ohlins myself before I hit 1000 miles.

I am leaning strongly toward Ohlins- questions:

 

Where is the rear preload adjuster mounted? Under the seat? Doesn't look like a lot of room otherwise. Doesn't look like a lot of room anywhere.

 

How is access to the rebound and compression adjusters?

 

Frank

[John in VA]

I have my preload knob mounted to the muffler bolt with the knob facing rearward. It's between the muffler and the rear wheel and has to be angled just right so it doesn't bind against the rear side case. Tight fit but it works. I don't use it often but it's reachable from the rear with the case on.

 

Rebound adjusters were set by the vendor for my weight and riding style, so there should be no reason to play with the adjusters, although they're easy to reach. For kicks I did some experimenting on my 06's Ohlins (after marking the settings as they were from the vendor), playing with extra clicks down and up but ended up putting them back. Just a click or two makes a noticeable change. Guess they got it right. It's really set and forget for any road type you come across. Spring sag was just right front and rear, which is key.

[duckbubbles]

I have my preload knob mounted to the muffler bolt with the knob facing rearward. It's between the muffler and the rear wheel and has to be angled just right so it doesn't bind against the rear side case. Tight fit but it works. I don't use it often but it's reachable from the rear with the case on.

 

Rebound adjusters were set by the vendor for my weight and riding style, so there should be no reason to play with the adjusters, although they're easy to reach. For kicks I did some experimenting on my 06's Ohlins (after marking the settings as they were from the vendor), playing with extra clicks down and up but ended up putting them back. Just a click or two makes a noticeable change. Guess they got it right. It's really set and forget for any road type you come across. Spring sag was just right front and rear, which is key.

John-

 

I sent you a PM asking for the exact shock part numbers you are using. I come up with frt- BM503 S46ER1/rear- BM504 S46DR1S. These are listed for the '05-'09. My local guys talked to Ohlins (I think) and they say there is no application? Seems to me that they would be the same since nothing basically changed a great deal for '10-'13.

 

I'd appreciate the info.

 

Frank

[John in VA]

PM sent. I have BM503 46ER and BM504 46DRS on my '13 RT.

[duckbubbles]

PM sent. I have BM503 46ER and BM504 46DRS on my '13 RT.

Thank you. I have decided to go ahead and put them on order- I'm done waiting and putting up with what's on the bike.

 

Frank

[Dave_zoom_zoom]

PM sent. I have BM503 46ER and BM504 46DRS on my '13 RT.

Thank you. I have decided to go ahead and put them on order- I'm done waiting and putting up with what's on the bike.

 

Frank

 

Hi Frank

 

Three cheers for John. Good advise. I have gone the same route as he did on my 2006 R1200RT. (many of us have)

 

No regrets, no problems! Just smiles. They really work great. I mounted my adjuster under the saddle. After playing with the adjuster for the first little bit, I determined "no need for me to play with it". Once setup properly these premium shocks/springs just don't need further adjusting.

 

Wishing you many miles and smiles.

 

Dave

[duckbubbles]

The shocks should arrive this week. I'll have to wait a week or so to install since I am leaving on a ride trip Thur. (4-17) and I am not changing anything on the bike before that.

 

My first instincts were to forgo the ESA. I just had to research the options. This will be the 5th bike I have had Ohlins on- I know what I am looking for.

 

Frank

[duckbubbles]

After a couple hundred miles on the new shocks, I am a happy camper.

 

The height of the saddle is not any higher and may be a tad lower- fine by me. The rear ESA shock must weigh 20+ lbs. No problems putting them on- didn't have to heat the bolts, just turned them out using a 24 in. 1/2 drive breaker bar. A "butterfly" air impact handled the front top nut in a total of 5 seconds, off and on. I took the opportunity to blow the bike apart and CLEAN everything. I have (as of 4-24-14) just about the cleanest 27,000+ mi. RT on the planet.

 

I am (un)fortunately blessed with real suspension checker roads that magnify any suspension shortcomings at speed. I have bumped the rebound damping on the front up 3 clicks and on the rear up 6 clicks (starting point 14-15). I just got back from doing my "practice" loop (about 45 miles) and am thinking I am real close to optimum. I'll let it ride for a while now.

 

On smooth roads, the ride is no worse than the stock shocks, but when the road deteriorates it feels totally "planted", not harsh at all- communicative.

 

I'm looking forward to a great ride for a while.

 

Frank

[John in VA]

You're right, Frank -- bad road surfaces are where great shocks really shine. Congrats and enjoy!