ABS Fault

[wingingit2]

This was in Hex heads by mistake.

 

I have a 02' K1200LT and the brake failure light is blinking fast. Is what is different from other posts I have read is that when I grab the front brake lever I hear the pump running fast and the speedometer shows about 40 mph. This happens on most pulls of the lever but not always.

I have a BMW manual but it is useless in that there is not a troubleshooting section, just dry R&R procedures. I just ordered a Clymer manual because there is a troubleshooting section, but I don't have much confidence in it. Also it is a week away.

 

Checked bulbs, and Brake light switches.

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

[wingingit2]

There is a bit of change.

 

Before the warning light came on and stayed on while the brake failure light flashed fast. Intermittently the speedometer will show 20 -60 mph while squeezing the front lever.

 

Now, after toping off the rear reservoir, it was 1 mm below full, The warning light goes off and the brake failure light flashes fast and then slow and stays slow. Intermittently the speedometer will show 20 -60 mph while squeezing the front lever

 

 

[wingingit2]

Anybody in S.E. Arizona have a code reader they could share??

[Guest Kakugo]

Is this thread on MOA of any help to you?

[wingingit2]

Is this thread on MOA of any help to you?

 

Yes that is helpful.

After filling the rear res. the self test completes but the slow flashing ABS light will come back after a few stops. Have a new battery already.

 

I am going to try to clean the rear wheel sensor.

 

Still need to check power & ground because of the speedo readings when brakes are applied.

[wingingit2]

Can anyone clarify the following? It is taken from the BMW ABS Maintenance Manual, page 00.60. (1) refers to a pic of a valve(?) next to the ABS control Mod. It is the mod that has the long bleed screws on the rear side of the module. In particular what bleed screw and what valve are they referring to?

 

I don't see how to attach photos.

 

 

Bleeding the front control circuit at the filler

adapter

• Wrap a cloth around filler adapter (1) at the pressure

modulator.

• Remove socket-head grubscrew (arrow) from

the filler adapter.

• Connect the silicon hose with brake bleeding

device to the bleed screw, but do not switch on.

d Warning:

When changing and bleeding the control circuit

brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction.

• Tighten the bleed screw up to the stop in the filler

adapter (valve in filler adapter closed).

e Caution:

During the bleeding process, the brake fluid level

must not drop below the “MIN” mark, or else air will

be drawn into the brake system. Bleed the system

again if this happens.

• Open the bleed screw by half a turn (to open the

valve) and bleed the system in accordance with

instructions for bleeding.

• Remove the bleed screw.

• Disconnect the brake bleeding device from the

bleed screw.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon wingingit2

 

Check your PM, I sent you some info.

[wingingit2]

That was just perfect.

[wingingit2]

Here is an update. I purchased a used pressure modulator. The parts fiche said the pressure modulator from a RS model would fit my LT. The last digit in part number was different by 1.

Not Working.

 

Here is what is happening.

The self check does not finish and the pump motor continues to run. Fast flashing on warning light.

If front lever is squeezed the assist motor engages, but not for rear brake.

The rear will pass the bleed test, but not front. (Same as before new modulator).

I was able to fill and bleed the Control circuits, but not the wheel circuits.

 

Below are the codes. Can anyone shed some light on this??

 

 

Integral ABS

17423: Invalid vehicle coding

The fault is currently present.

17167: Invalid vehicle coding

The fault is currently present.

[dirtrider]

Morning wingingit2

 

I'm not exactly sure what you have there as I work on few K bikes.

 

I have seen those codes before when a controller is swapped out & s-o-m-e-t-i-m-e-s disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (maybe even take a couple of times) will clear them.

 

If a battery disconnect won't clear them then it might take a proper recode for your bike from a dealer computer.

[wingingit2]

I will give it a try.

 

Are these codes preventing it from working properly??

[dirtrider]

Afternoon wingingit2

 

I would imagine the codes themselves are not causing lack of operation but whatever is causing the controller to set the codes might be causing your lack of workie.

 

I have seen those codes before on transplanted controllers & usually when present the controller isn't working correctly.

 

I wish I had more info for you but if a couple of battery disconnects don't get it working then maybe a dealer computer will be needed to re-code it for your bike (if the unit is functional).