RID Resets Everytime the Bike is Started

[Dakota Dave]

Bike is kept on charger but everytime the bike is started the clock is reset to 00:00. I also can smell something that smells hot. Not sure if related or not. Anyone have a problem with RID reseting on them.

[Tim Glass]

Mine was doing this a few months back. It was time for a new battery. Now have an Odyssey PC680 installed and no further problems.

[RTSpink]

Might also be a blown fuse. I had this same problem and did a quick check with the voltmeter and found the fuse was gone.

 

Bob

[Dakota Dave]

So with a fuse blown it would still come on when the bike was turned on. Do you rememember which fuse? I am checking on this for a friend. I am going to recommend a PC680. Could be a bad battery if it has high internal resistance the voltage could be droping low enough to reset clock. Seems like it resets around 9 volts if I remember right.

[John]

Dave, on mine it's the fuse connected to the rear pwer outlet. I shorted it out a couple of times when connecting the battery charger. It gave the same symptoms of the clock resetting to zero whenever the key was turned off.

[flars]

There are two fuses for the RID - one keeps the clock running when the bike is off, and the other one drives the display. It can be difficult to tell when the fuses BMW uses are blown. Buy some regular auto fuses and replace the one that drives the clock...or replace them all so they can be more easily diagnosed.

[Ken H.]

The RID is resetting because it is loosing its "keep alive" voltage. Either fuse F3 is blown, or at some time the voltage is dropping below the minimum threshold it needs to keep the clock current. Often during cranking.

 

Checking F3 is obviously one step.

 

The other way to tell is if it is caused by a voltage drop during cranking is to observer the clock after turning the key on but before cranking the engine. Is the clock reset to zero then? If so it is loosing its voltage to it somewhere when the bike is off. If it doesn't reset to zero until the bike is cranked, the issue is an unusual voltage drop during crank. A weak battery being the #1 suspect.

[KDeline]

Mine does that after sitting all night in the low teens, and I have a 2 month old Oddessey. Just hard cranking a cold engine as it does not do this above twenty or so. How cold is it when you get this?

[RTSpink]

If you're looking for a way to tell if a fuse is blown I see that Vetco offers a nifty little replacement fuse. I haven't bought these yet but am thinking about making the switch. They would probably make doing a quick visual inspection that much easier.

 

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/pro...9db114492fdaad6

 

Bob

[USAF1]

Wanna check these out very carefully......they are so tall they wouldn't fit under the cover of the fuse box...good idea though.

 

Pat

[PETDOC]

KDeline- I'm so glad you posted that comment. I've got an '04 GS with a Gel battery that has been great (2 1/2 yrs old). I always keep it plugged into Battery Tender and a while back when it was down around 10 degrees exactly the same thing happened. I initially thought "here goes the battery", but ever since the sun has come up not a problem. But know you've got my curiosity up--what/how does really cold weather do that?

[Boffin]

KDeline- I'm so glad you posted that comment. I've got an '04 GS with a Gel battery that has been great (2 1/2 yrs old). I always keep it plugged into Battery Tender and a while back when it was down around 10 degrees exactly the same thing happened. I initially thought "here goes the battery", but ever since the sun has come up not a problem. But know you've got my curiosity up--what/how does really cold weather do that?

 

When the temperature drops so does the conductivity of the electrolyte. This means that when you pull current from the battery it's voltage drops as it's internal resistance is higher. As the battery warms up through use the effect will go away, BTW the amount of temperature effect on batteries varies between liquid, gel and adsorbed mat batteries.

 

Cya, Andy

[Paul Mihalka]

It is a combination of two things: In the cold the battery has less cranking power, and the engine is much harder to turn in the cold with the oil getting real thick. If you start/ride a lot in real cold, a thin oil like a 5/30 may help.

[PETDOC]

Andy and Paul,

Thanks for the feed back. For anyone else who may experience this here is the rest of my story--I went out to go for cold ride. Bike was hooked up to Battery Tender and my dash mounted voltmeter indicated 13.98 volts. As soon as I unplugged the Battery Tender the voltage dropped to high 12s as I geared up (this is all normal). After putting on several layers which included heated vest and balaclava, I got on bike and hit starter--nothing, not even a click and clock zeros out. I thought this was about to be the shortest ride of the year. I looked at the voltmeter and it was still registering in the mid 12s and headlight beam appeared of normal intensity, so I pushed starter again. You could hear the very slightest attemp of something to happen--not sure what as the engine didn't give any indication of turning over. As they say "3rd time's the charm", so totally convinced my voltmeter was lying and battery was dead, and mostly out of frustration I hit starter 1 more time and the engine just barely began to turn over and then...boom starts like nothing was wrong. With some trepidation I took off wondering if the first time I stopped if it would be the end of the ride, but the rest of the day bike started immediately after I touched starter. Only lasting effect was having to reset clock. I guess moral to this story is on really cold nites put a heating pad on the battery.

[powerman]

I don't know how cold it was, but you may want to change to a thinner oil to make it a little easier to spin the engine.