Initial settings for new throttle cables

[pfb]

I just got done installing a new throttle cable, 2 new throttle body cables and a choke cable on a 2002 R1150R.

Does anyone have a good baseline starting point for all the cable end adjusters?

The manual has a basic description but I'm betting that there are those who have a practical sequence to follow

before starting the engine to ensure a successful TB sync. I'm not touching the throttle stops !

 

.... oh, one more thing. The choke does not stay at the faster of the two positions, a part or an adjustment?

Thanks everyone

Peter

[Boffin]

.... oh, one more thing. The choke does not stay at the faster of the two positions, a part or an adjustment?

Thanks everyone

Peter

 

The Choke (more correctly fast idle as it just holds open the throttle) only has one detented position. The upper position only being intended for use at start-up, ie you hold the lever up whilst thumbing the starter. Once started the lever is allowed to return to the detented position until the engine is warmed up (Note do not wait for the engine to warm up before riding off).

 

Cya, Andy

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I'll answer the second question first but in two parts.

 

It is not a "choke" but merely a fast idle lever. It is not meant to stay in the second position, in fact it is spring loaded to return to the first position as you release the lever. In other words, they all do that.

 

As to your cables, I think the only adjustment is at the bottom on the throttle bodies so I'll address that first and then discuss the use of the free play adjuster on the throttle cable leading to the Bouden box.

 

The idea is to get a certain minimal play in the cables to both allow smooth throttle action and leave some room for subsequent adjustment for synchronization.

So, start with your throttle cables removed and turn the adjusters on the throttle bodies all the way in and then back off about 1 turn each. Install the cables and adjust each of the adjusters on the throttle body until you can just pull a little bit of slack in the outer cable without causing the throttle arm to move. You shouldn't be able to pull the nipple out of its socket in the adjuster but you should be able to raise it a little, say 1/8 to 1/16". Now proceed to the free length adjuster under the throttle grip. Adjust it so there is about 1/8" free play in the cable. You can now proceed to the throttle body synchronization. Don't forget to adjust your valves and clean/renew the spark plugs first.

 

Once that is done and both your idle speed and high speed synch are on, you can proceed to the choke cable adjustment. You seek about that same 1/8 to 1/4" free play in the end of the cable. Another way is to adjust the cable to give you about 1800 to 2000 RPM with a warm engine at the first detent. Then return to the off position and check that some free play exists.

 

It takes about as long to do this as it did to read it so you should be fine.

[powerman]

RE: ".... oh, one more thing. The choke does not stay at the faster of the two positions, a part or an adjustment?"

No, there are three positions off (normal idle), high speed and highest speed. The highest speed must be held, otherwise it drops to first high speed.

Also i have not replaced my cables yet but i have adjusted them a little. i do know that you adjust them as close to zero slack as possible.

[lithoman]

(note do not wait for engine to warn up before riding off!!)

 

Interesting point Andy, don't mean to hijack but I was getting ready to come home from work the other night and my RT was not sitting for more than 3 min at idle while I was getting my helmet and gloves on.

 

I just happened to look down at my fairing at the base of the pipes where they come off the heads and they were red hot!! WOW this was no more than sitting for 3 or 4 minutes at idle!! any longer and and I probably would have had a meltdown

[pfb]

Thanks for the responses everyone. It occurred to me after reading the posts that slight free play adjustments for each of the three cables are independent because of the box . Pulling up on the cable housing was a great way to check for slack at the bodies and I was getting hung up on that one. I'll save the fast idle for last. When I got the bike about a year ago (my first bmw)

the fast idle used to stay in the third position then would return to the second position when the throttle was blipped. That's why I had the question. I'm good to go.

Peter

(warming up boxer engines for 20 seconds or less in the Hudson Valley for almost one tenth of a decade)