Winter warm up/recharge routine

[SK_in_AB]

Since I'm north of 49 there is not much riding after November 1. My bike has been in an unheated attached garage at -10 to 5 C (10 to40F) depending on the outside weather. Decided to try a ride tonight as the streets were dry and sand free, and it was about 2C (36F).

 

The battery was too flat to spin the motor more than once (even with clutch out). I boosted the battery from my car and it started fine. Warmed up to 2 bars on the RID then took off for about a 1/2 hour. Mostly expressways at 40-60MPH, kept bike in 3rd to keep RPMs up in th 5-7000 range - I assume the alternator output is RPM related so that charges the battery better.

 

Now for my questions:

1)Is boosting from a car battery OK to jump start the '02 RT (regular wet cell battery)?

2)Is the 1/2 hour enough time for a significant charge (I don't have it on a tender)?

3)Is the idea of a full engine warm up every month or so good - or will it lead to other concerns?

4)I do have a 5 amp car battery charger - can this be used on the RT for say 2-4 hours to get the charge up next time? I wouldn't leave it on for an extended period.

 

Any thoughts/comments appreciated

[nrp]

My opinions -

 

1)Is boosting from a car battery OK to jump start the '02 RT (regular wet cell battery)? Yes - but the need suggests the RT battery is badly discharged.

2)Is the 1/2 hour enough time for a significant charge (I don't have it on a tender)? No.

3)Is the idea of a full engine warm up every month or so good - or will it lead to other concerns? There's nothing wrong with cold storage of an engine. Cold storage reduces the internal corrosion rates considerably. If it is run, yes, it should be brought to temperature, but the repeated cold starts do their own damage. The best way to minimize cold start damage after a bike has been sitting for many weeks, is to preheat the oil with a heat lamp.

4)I do have a 5 amp car battery charger - can this be used on the RT for say 2-4 hours to get the charge up next time? I wouldn't leave it on for an extended period. Yes - I guess like every 20-30 days.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

1)Is boosting from a car battery OK to jump start the '02 RT (regular wet cell battery)?

2)Is the 1/2 hour enough time for a significant charge (I don't have it on a tender)?

3)Is the idea of a full engine warm up every month or so good - or will it lead to other concerns?

4)I do have a 5 amp car battery charger - can this be used on the RT for say 2-4 hours to get the charge up next time? I wouldn't leave it on for an extended period.

 

1. It's not the best solution but, as long as you are careful, it will get the job done.

2. 1/2 hour would be marginal. 1 hour should be sufficient. BTW, you only need 4000 RPM to reach the full output of the alternator.

3. I'm of two minds on this. In all, you won't be performing that many starts so the cold start issue is moot. A warm up is something else. Extended idling is bad as it can lead to tupperware damage. A mere 1/2 hour ride will not get the oil to a temperature (especially if its cool out) where the bad stuff will boil off. You really need a solid hour at freeway speeds to get there.

4. I don't like the 5 amp charger idea. 2 amps is about all you should use. High charging rates risk collapsing plates and boiling off electrolyte. Get a 2 amp charger, or better yet, a Battery Tender and leave it connected to the bike all the time.

 

An alternative would be to remove the battery and bring it into the house. Just let it sit in a well ventilated area and then, the day before you are ready for a ride, give it a charge and replace it in the bike. This, IMHO, would be the better alternative for you. Along with maybe 1/2 a can of Stabil in the fuel tank.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

BTW, you only need 4000 RPM to reach the full output of the alternator.

 

I don't even think you need that much, unless you're running a lot of accessories. Check the brightness of your lights as the engine revs up; when they don't get any brighter, system voltage is at its max (held there by the regulator), and you won't get any more charging benefit from revving faster. for me, this is no more than about 2K rpm, even when I'm running my vest, grips, and all my lights.

[Larsen]

One item of importance relating to Lead Acid Batteries that hasn't yet been addressed is the freezing point of the electrolyte in your battery. A fully charged Lead Acid Battery won't freeze in the temperatures most of us are exposed to. If your battery freezes the battery case and plates can suffer irreparable damage.

 

A fully discharged Lead Acid Battery can freeze when exposed to temperatures of 18 Degrees Fahrenheit. The actual freezing point is subject to the specific gravity of the electrolyte used.

 

A fully charged Lead Acid Battery won't freeze until the temp gets down to between -75 to -95 Degrees Fahrenheit, dependent upon the specific gravity of the electrolyte used.

 

Our BMW Motorcycle Lead Acid Batteries should have been put into service using an electrolyte that has a specific gravity of 1.280. Automotive electrolyte usually has a specific gravity of 1.265.

 

You should also remember that conventional lead-acid batteries usually discharge at a rate of 1% per day at 77 Degrees Fahrenheit. In a bit more than three months, your battery will be dead if not recharged.

 

A Battery Tender is cheap insurance!

[mountainred]

I start mine every couple of days on the center stand and let it warm up for 2 bars. I ride a couple times a month in the winter but this time i have to have my friend ride it for me. I don't own a battery tender.

[baggerchris]

There are many many threads here that go on the premise that:

a. Warming to one bar is suspect and warming to two bars is a no no without movement.

b. The best way is to warm for 30 seconds or so and then drive off.

I personally (on my particular bike) warm up to one bar only and then ride off.

[UberXY]

1. I use a tender about an hour a week in the winter.

2. I don't do short chore-type rides in the winter, as it takes awhile to restore the charge lost in starting. So when i ride in the winter i try to do at least an hour.

3. My warm up: start the bike, put it in gear, ride.

 

BTW, my BMW car has a tach where the redline changes based on the oil temperature. It starts out about 4500rpm when dead cold and then goes gradually up.

[PLW]

SS Ed mentioned using fuel stabilizer for long term storage, another option is aviation fuel, that stuff will stay good for a couple of years at least, especially if stored in a sealed can or closed fuel system. The only down side would be the fact that it does contain a slight amount of lead, so it could poison your catalyst [if that matters to you].

[mountainred]

Warming to 2 bars without movement? whats that do?

[Softtail]

This is very simple, but something everyone should think about when cold starting the bike. Disengage the clutch before starting. That way, you are spinning less stuff when the motor is cold. I saw that in a post a while back and it seems to make a lot of since!! <<<<<Softtail>>>>>

[SK_in_AB]

Thanks for all the advice. For reference:

 

1) I did pull in the clutch before attempting to start - I had read that good advice on here before

 

2) I only warmed to 2 bars because once before on a low battery and cold engine I stalled and was left without starting power. I wanted to be sure the engine was warm enough to ensure no stalls. I had moved the bike onto the driveway and it was only 35F outside so I wasn't concerned about melting tupperware

 

3) I like the comment on not needing to go above 4k rpm to charge the battery - thanks Ed.

 

4) The concern about battery freezing is my biggest worry. In part thats why I wanted to get out last night and give it a recharge. Looks mild for the weekend so I will try and get a full hour in at 60mph on Saturday in anticipation of a more typical -10F deep freeze coming over the next 2 weeks

 

4) I do plan to invest in a tender charger - its just that this winter has been so mild here in Calgary that I never got around to it

 

As always - thanks for the sound advice I get off this forum!

 

Waiting for spring,

 

Stephen

[Mike]

This is why you shouldn't warm up an oilhead on its stand for more than a few seconds before riding off.

 

The best routine, assuming you're going to do this at all, is to let it idle for a short amount of time, if at all, then ride off. I'm not sure of how long it takes to get to full operating temperature (I'd actually guess more like 20-30 minutes, rather than the hour Ed suggested), but if you can't go for a ride that's worthwhile, I wouldn't go through the routine at all.