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Have oil leak around Oil-level indicator


The Rice Man

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If the bike is an R1150XX, then a leak around the oil level sight glass is very often a warning of the glass falling out at a bad time. Replace it now. There are instructions all over this forum and others.

 

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The sight glass on my R1100RT was weeping, and I decided to replace it myself. If I had it to do over again, I would have a dealer do the work. The end result worked out fine, but it was a bear to get seated properly.

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It takes 5 minutes to change and you don`t even need to drain the oil.

Before you start, make sure you have a suitable sized drift for installing the new sightglass. A socket is ideal. Also note how deeply it is seated so you know when the new one will be fully installed.

Lean the bike over to the right against a wall until no oil is visible in the glass.

Punch the glass (it is actually plastic) with a screwdriver and hammer and prise it out. If you have a forkseal puller it makes life a bit easier, but not essential. Make sure you don`t damage the housing.

Put a very light smear of oil on the outside of the new sightglass and use the drift to tap it in.

Job done.

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It takes 5 minutes to change and you don`t even need to drain the oil.

Before you start, make sure you have a suitable sized drift for installing the new sightglass. A socket is ideal. Also note how deeply it is seated so you know when the new one will be fully installed.

Lean the bike over to the right against a wall until no oil is visible in the glass.

Punch the glass (it is actually plastic) with a screwdriver and hammer and prise it out. If you have a forkseal puller it makes life a bit easier, but not essential. Make sure you don`t damage the housing.

Put a very light smear of oil on the outside of the new sightglass and use the drift to tap it in.

Job done.

 

This is no longer the simple job it once was. The "new" sightglass is actually made of glass, and it a lot harder to get in. There are a few thread floating around about it.

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sorry wrong forum and did not give the info.

Hi Rice Man

Please could you fill out your profile as we can then give much more specific advice.

As mentioned, it is not as straightforward as it used to be.

Go carefully.

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  • 3 months later...

The fiche for the 2000 R1100RT on the Max BMW web site has a note and pdf instruction for removing and reinstalling the oil site gauge. The note says, "Installed dry. Early models may not utilize the clip due to a lack of groove in engine block." The first step of the instructions say, "Pry circlip (1) out at the bottom at the recess (arrow) and remove."

 

My question is when did BMW start installing the circlip? I've looked at my site gauge and it doesn't appear to have a circlip. Does this note and instruction apply to the R1200?

 

Thanks

Tom

tpfeffer@gmail.com

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The fiche for the 2000 R1100RT on the Max BMW web site has a note and pdf instruction for removing and reinstalling the oil site gauge. The note says, "Installed dry. Early models may not utilize the clip due to a lack of groove in engine block." The first step of the instructions say, "Pry circlip (1) out at the bottom at the recess (arrow) and remove."

 

My question is when did BMW start installing the circlip? I've looked at my site gauge and it doesn't appear to have a circlip. Does this note and instruction apply to the R1200?

 

 

Morning Tom

 

The 1100 & 1150 engines didn't get a circlip as there just isn't enough room machined in the engine case to allow so.

 

When BMW went to the 1200 Hexhead (not the 1200 oil head) is when the case casting was changed to accept a retaining circlip (a long needed change)

 

That "installed dry" procedure has been changed a few times so with the replacement real glass sight gauge you will probably break a few (IF) you try to install them dry. Tire mounting lube seemed to work pretty good & we used that for a while as it is slick but does dry out & allow sight glass adhesion.

 

Lately, the best method seems to be using brake clean as a lube as that dries out & almost totally disappears. Problem with brake clean is, you REALLY need your ducks in arrow to use brake clean as a lubricant as you have about 20 seconds to get that sight glass started straight & seated.

 

The newer REAL GLASS sight glass have some advantages, like it doesn't yellow with age, or distort with high heat, but also has some down sides. That starts with removing the old real glass sight glass as you can't just drive a screwdriver through the glass window or you end up with a crankcase full of broken glass. Best way is to use a special BMW cutter tool to sort of machine the rubber out.

 

Installing the real glass sight glass is also a pain as you have to be very careful to not break the glass as again you can end up with a crankcase full of glass or at the very least a few broken glass lens's.

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Rice Man…

If you have a leak at the sight glass, like Al Wagnon said… it is getting ready to blow.

 

My R1100S had the slightest seep… I figured, oh well, it is not too bad…

 

Had the bike in the garage and started her up while I put on my gloves… poop… blew out the glass, about a pint of oil on the concrete and a lot of noise.

 

I suggest you do a search on this forum for the process/procedure to replace the Oil Level Indicator. It was not that long ago it was covered thoroughly.

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I replaced the sight glass last year, and if mine starts leaking again, I'm going to have a dealer replace it. My hope is that is since it was such a PITA to replace, it's really in there, and will never have be replaced again, but it's not job I want to do again. Although it took more time, replacing the clutch was easier.

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