GMC Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Does the regular 1150RT (non RT-P) have some different kind of framework up front which supports the shark fins (lower sides)? How much of that extra police framework up front is necessary? All that framework that surrounds the strut, wraps around the forward perimeter of the motor around the alternator belt cover, and wraps back and attaches under the gas tank. More to the point, can I remove the RT-P framework up front, which attaches at the front (of the bottom) of the motor and then at the sides, just forward of the telelever pivot points? And really to the heart of the matter: any other way to get an Ohlins strut into place without removing all that extra framework? I'm actually not yet sure how much of it is actually RT-P stuff, though some of it is obvious. I'm assuming I'll have to in order to get my Ohlins strut into place, as the stock strut barely came out even after loosening most of that extra framework and moving it just far enough out of the way, which is as far as it will move without removing the whole deal. I perused the service manual and a few threads on this forum and then tore into this task assuming it would be straightforward, which it seems to be except for what I believe is the extra police framework, which is making it a lot more time consuming, unless I'm missing something... This make any sense? If not I can scrounge up some pictures. Link to comment
GMC Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Hopefully this will help Thanks AndyS, but the link you posted won't seem to open. I get a message saying there is an error in the link... Link to comment
GMC Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 "Seasoned" RT-P owners mostly would know this, and I've had my -P long enough that I certainly should have known, but not surprisingly there is a whole sub-frame setup on the bike up front, under the plastics, used to robustly support the police add-ons. My early investigations into the RT-P conversion process (7 yrs ago) didn't really address this, probably because of my hasty review of what I was reading, but even now I don't see this part of the process mentioned much, if at all. That's likely because you don't need to do anything about it, as there is almost no outward clue that its there, and it can in fact for some prove to be a benefit for mounting this or that to the sub-frame. For me its just extra dead weight (unless I'm missing something), and is a PITA when it comes to changing or accessing the front strut, or the alternator belt. Am planning to either remove it all, or possibly cut some of it away leaving just what may be of use for attaching the shark fins. We'll see... (So much for my quick strut change) Link to comment
GMC Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Just to close the loop, in case someone else stumbles across this thread in a search for addressing the same thing in the future: I did what others have done and just cut away the sub-frame part which wraps around the front of the strut. Cleaned up cut with grinder, dressed it with epoxy, and was pretty much done at that point, as far as what was really needed. But from there you can either just put everything back as is, or you could cut away more of the lower sub-frame to allow easier access to the alternator and belt, while keeping your shark fin mounting intact. Or you can pick up the "civilian" mounts for the shark fins and just remove the whole mess of sub-frame, which is how I went, since i came across a used set of mounts and shark fins (the fins match the police version) used on ebay. I removed most of the rest of the RT-P wiring while I was up there, fwiw. Link to comment
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