Key tumbler swap?

[Torontonian]

Ignition tumbler wearing out,key sometimes frozen ,no turning. Graphite powder working well for the moment. Can I swap-out a luggage unit or rear seat lift unit ,same key.96 r1100rt. Seems to have the dimpled in set srew for releasing tumbler instead of drilling out top brace bolts procedure in manual. Thanks for any advice.

[enfoman]

Here are a few things for you to puruse.....

 

On the Chromehead site, a member had a problem with a bike that was left out in the elements..........

 

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/474724.html

 

At the end of the post, he references this site for tumbler replacement................

 

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/474724.html

 

good luck.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Torontonian

 

Not much goes wrong with the cylinders except for wear on the wafers. Usually when the ign switch starts hanging up it is either a lube issue or a worn key.

 

Maybe try a new key first (do not just have your old worn key copied at a hardware store.

 

You don't have to remove the upper bridge & drill the screws out unless you just can't find a way to get to the cylinder release trigger with the switch in the bike.

 

To remove the cylinder-----

 

(1)-Key in ON position/press in keeper (lower wafer) with a

stiff wire or similar on front of lock cylinder(you might have to pry a little rubber plug out first) , you are actually reaching in through the cylinder housing & depressing the lower wafer on cylinder.

 

(2)- Pull out lock barrel using key

 

(3)- (lighthtly) Lubricate the new lock barrel with

Shell Retinax A (or a good light waterproof lube).

 

To install new cylinder-----

 

(1)- Insert the lock barrel in switch with the key in the ON position.

 

(2) Press lock barrel down until keeper engages.

 

I really can't say if the lock cylinders are interchangeable between the ign switch & the panniers or seat lock (the parts book says not the same).

 

When you remove your old cylinder just see what wafers (tumblers) are not retracting properly (with key in cylinder) then either remove those wafers or replace them.

 

Sometimes you can just grind/sand the wafers that won't retract properly to get them to drop low enough to work OK.

 

Or just buy a new set of wafers to match your old ones & install all new wafers. Should buy a new key also as key wear really effects wafer retraction position.

 

 

 

[roger 04 rt]

The ignition key on my 1150 has twice as many tumblers as all the rest but uses the same key. I found out the hard way that the ignition key needs to be cut more precisely than the rest.

 

You can buy a set of replacement tumblers or you can pop the tumbler out and file down the outside of the offending one. Even with new ones you may have to adjust them unless you get a new key from BMW.

 

At least that's how it went for me.

RB

[enfoman]

Here are a few things for you to puruse.....

 

On the Chromehead site, a member had a problem with a bike that was left out in the elements..........

 

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/474724.html

 

At the end of the post, he references this site for tumbler replacement................

 

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/474724.html

 

good luck.

 

 

 

Appears I did not copy the correct thread link above for you..... Here it is............

 

http://www.ebbo.org/key.php

[drtnsnw]

Morning Torontonian

 

Not much goes wrong with the cylinders except for wear on the wafers. Usually when the ign switch starts hanging up it is either a lube issue or a worn key.

 

Maybe try a new key first (do not just have your old worn key copied at a hardware store.

 

You don't have to remove the upper bridge & drill the screws out unless you just can't find a way to get to the cylinder release trigger with the switch in the bike.

 

To remove the cylinder-----

 

(1)-Key in ON position/press in keeper (lower wafer) with a

stiff wire or similar on front of lock cylinder(you might have to pry a little rubber plug out first) , you are actually reaching in through the cylinder housing & depressing the lower wafer on cylinder.

 

(2)- Pull out lock barrel using key

 

(3)- (lighthtly) Lubricate the new lock barrel with

Shell Retinax A (or a good light waterproof lube).

 

To install new cylinder-----

 

(1)- Insert the lock barrel in switch with the key in the ON position.

 

(2) Press lock barrel down until keeper engages.

 

I really can't say if the lock cylinders are interchangeable between the ign switch & the panniers or seat lock (the parts book says not the same).

 

When you remove your old cylinder just see what wafers (tumblers) are not retracting properly (with key in cylinder) then either remove those wafers or replace them.

 

Sometimes you can just grind/sand the wafers that won't retract properly to get them to drop low enough to work OK.

 

Or just buy a new set of wafers to match your old ones & install all new wafers. Should buy a new key also as key wear really effects wafer retraction position.

 

 

 

 

Do you have to pop that silver cap out?? I am having a heck of a time with mine. If you do have to take out that cap what is a good way??

 

Chris

[Aussiegazza]

You do not take out the silver cap.

 

You push wire or similar into the hole that is just above the silver cap.

[drtnsnw]

thanks, found it. covered in dirt. My cylinder is siezed in there pretty good. actually pulled out the key trying to remove it so decided not the best thing to do at work with no other way home. Will get home and do it there so if I muck it up bad I can at least get around till fixed

 

Chris

[Torontonian]

Thanks for advice ,the graphite powder squirt-tube works surprisingly well ,a locksmith gave me that tip. Will attempt this and remove any offending wafers (I am not a security nut just want functionality on demand ). Thanks for the red circle to locate release hole ,yes it was full o'crud.