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Considering K1200GT 07-08 -- WOTL?


Johnny Jetson

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Johnny Jetson

 

I'm looking at this as a replacement for my former sport tourer from another manufacturer. The riding mags seem to have a high opinion of the bike, but I'm not seeing much about reliability, differences in the earlier version,tire preferences (I like dual- or multi-compounds -- lots of freeway miles in AZ) comparisons to other bikes, etc.

 

Is there some WOTL on this?

 

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Dennis Andress

The newer K1200/1300 bikes have been fairly reliable.

 

The biggest failure seems to be that the cam chain tensioner has no spring and tensions by oil pressure. That means there have been many cam chains jump a tooth shortly after engine start. There's a added cam chain guide that prevents this. Make sure you buy a bike with it, or have it done.

 

Personally, I go with a K1300....

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In a nutshell, the most-mentioned issues with the 07-08 K1200GT are:

 

1. Cam drive problems, now cured by an updated cam chain tensioner (introduced in mid-2007 but can be easily retrofitted) and a jump guard (a protective device in case the tensioner ever doesn't do its thing), also easily installed. Actually I think BMW is even paying for it now (about 5 years too late.)

 

2. Clutch basket wear, about all you can do is ride the bike and if the clutch operates smoothly then you're probably OK. If it doesn't then there's a potential $2k repair involved so make sure it does.

 

3. There is a problem with the ABS module that surfaces on some bikes. BMW's solution is a $2000 replacement but luckily it can usually be repaired vs. replaced (for free by a skilled owner, or for $250 from ModuleMasters.)

 

4. Some bikes have experienced premature wear of the ball joints in the duolever front suspension. This about $500 for BMW to fix, or about $300 to do yourself (the freakin' ball joints are $150 each.) To check for this make sure the bike tracks well and doesn't wander, or put the bike on the centerstand, get the front wheel off the ground, and shake the wheel carrier back and forth. There should be no play.

 

Check out any potential purchases for the above and see if you're in the clear, or if not at least you know how much to subtract from the price to get them fixed. The 1300 has all the usual BMW 'improvements' that may or may not actually fix the problem, but they are at least somewhat less likely to have the above issues (at a higher price of course so you'll have to work out whether it is cost effective alternative.)

 

Oh, and a radar detector. You're definitely going to be wanting a radar detector. ;)

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Ditto on checking for the 'gotcha's the others mentioned. As far as tires, that's a whole nother subject to be discussed. FWIW,I got 7k on my last Michelin PR3 rear and about 8K on the front.

 

I had changed my own cam chain tensioner prior to BMW doing the recall on the unit. Took me 45 minutes. Easy to do, plenty of help on the web.

 

I moved from RT's to an '07 GT. Love the bike, super strong and smooth power delivery. Haven't looked back since(mostly because I know nothing can keep up) :thumbsup:

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Johnny Jetson

"FWIW,I got 7k on my last Michelin PR3 rear and about 8K on the front."

 

Wow. I got 15K front and rear on my last two pairs of PR2s (2B on the rear) on a bike that weighed almost 100# more than the 1200GT, and I'm no lightweight. Do you right a lot of corners?

 

Also:

 

Great replies, guys. Thanks so much for the help.

 

JJ

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I live to corner....doesn't everybody? I've been riding on the Michelin PR series since PR's came out. Can't say that the newest version lasts any longer, but they do stick better and wear more evenly.

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Enjoy the bike if you find one.

 

There is a real, real nice one for sale in Tampa in our classifieds.

'07 GT

 

Comparing tire longevity is futile as too many variables.

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Johnny Jetson

Made the deal today. An 07 with 26K miles.

 

Find a dealer in Phoenix in August who has 5 of them in stock and a messy construction project going on in his showroom, and you don't have to deal -- he'll offer you any one of the 5 for $1000 under NADA and throw in the dealer make ready with oil changes, new tires, and all.

 

Thanks again to all of you for your advice and suggestions -- I'm already enjoying the bike and I plan to enjoy it for years.

 

JB

Fabulous, trend-setting, Gilbert, AZ

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Johnny Jetson

Not GOAZ -- Nice looking group of dealerships, but 40 miles from me. Victory BMW (Chandler on AZ ave) is only 5 miles and seems to have a good reputation in the shop.

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The best K-GTs are the last of the brick models, not the wedge. Motor runs better, bike even sounds better (wedge Ks make annoying whiney jet noises without power to match- their low end power is neither impressive nor especially linear. Wedge GTs are also not as comfortable as an RT though they can be modded to be so. (Yes, I've owned an 06 for a while, bought used, and am still sorting its design/other issues to get it to suit my taste. Still needs ball joints to sort its wandering handling, for example, and a few farkles. Doubt I'll ever like it as well as the K-RS)

 

I suspect BMW dropped the wedge for its inherent design flaw problems and about the time they discovered they could make a 6 and receive a higher margin for it. I'd have preferred a brick with modernized engine management and other electronics to the wedge bikes- their bit of extra top end doesn't really offset the bikes other problems IMO.

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The best K-GTs are the last of the brick models,

 

Agreed :thumbsup::Cool:

 

 

They are very, very nice, IMO.

 

But I am biased.

:P

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Hear hear! The only Beemer I have owned that I have truly felt fit me and my riding style perfectly. The lack of vibes lets you get the most out of that amazing engine. If I just want to sight see, I use 5th gear for 25-top speeds through my favorite twisties, some braking required. If I want entertainment, 4th gear for 20-70 little braking required, if I want to hold on for dear life, 3rd gear braking optional. Too afraid to try 2nd.

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