R1100RT Disconnect O2 now it barely runs

[Dave P]

96 R1100RT, 100k, I was searching for ideas for how to cure my low speed surging, and I was advised (by an authority I believe) to simply try disconnecting the O2 sensor to see how it runs. so I lifted the tank slightly, and disconnected the O2. Big round plug with the screw in thing to hold it together. Easy peasy.

 

At startup, it runs rough, backfires, wont idle, races when I blip the throttle then pops. Other than pulling my right side spark plug, the O2 disconnect is all I did. So I hooked it back up, pulled the #5 fuse, 10 seconds, reinstall. Still runs lousy. Ran good before all of this- except for the surging. I've crawled all over it and don't see any disconnected vacuum lines or wires. Never touched the CCP or the throttle bodies. Never touched the TPS. don't get it. Didn't see any wires with worn away insulation, but a lot of the black outer wrap plastic is falling off.

 

Any ideas on this? Cause I'm running out. thank you in advance. Dave

[Jim Moore]

One of your throttle cables is dislodged from its housing down on the throttle body.

[dirtrider]

Morning Dave

 

As Jim mentioned, check your Right Hand throttle cable right where it enters the furrel on top of the throttle body. The cable is probably pulled out & sitting on top of the furrel instead of in it.

 

Almost always that is the cause of the problem you are seeing.

 

Disconnecting the 02 sensor will not cause what you are experiencing.

 

If by slight chance that R/H cable is OK then makes sure you don't have a pinched fuel line.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Dave,

The advice to disconnect the O2 was figuratively correct but there is a better was to accomplish "disconnecting the O2", for the R1100RT, remove the Yellow Coding Plug. That might improve your low speed surging, assuming that you already done a quality tuning of the engine.

 

If you literally unplug the sensor, you leave an unheated O2 sensor in the exhaust which might lead to its damage due to carbon accumulation. When you remove the coding plug you tell the Motronic to ignore the O2 sensor and look for a CO pot.

 

If everything else on your motorcycle is working properly check with Mike at Beemerboneyard about the BMW-AF-XIED. He's selling them. He had a Powercommander on his R1100 and removed it in favor of the XIED. He can tell you what it's done. I heard he's very pleased.

[Dave P]

Oilheads- thanks for the advice. Well I examined the (rather large) fuel lines and I don't see any evidence they are pinched. they seem routed nicely on the side of the tank, don't really see how they could get pinched. I will closely examine the cables going into the barrels. Don't remember there being a problem there but I will look again.

 

Roger- Do you mean to pull the cat code plug? I've read so many posts about that little cube- some folks say pull it, some folks say don't.

Mine is yellow, and I haven't pulled it.

 

My plan is to do the whole tune up thing- Valve Adj, TB sync and TPS check / adjust (might hire this out- sounds like I could really screw things up messing with that thing). Thought I'd try this O2 disconnect first. Maybe put a couple new plug in there too. But last Friday this thing was running very nice- except for the low speed surging.

 

Hoping to ride this weekend.... Dave

 

 

[tallman]

Roger's device mentioned will make a dif.

 

When you say low speed surging, what gear(s) and rpms?

 

On most, not all 1100's, I found lower gear and higher rpm's cured surging and made it ez to avoid the small range where it happened.

 

You sound more experienced and knowledgeable, not new to beemers, but I've met folks who short shift and end up w/surging.

YMMV

[philbytx]

What is this surging of which you speak? LOL!

[tallman]

Phil,

 

On my 96 RSL I had to look for surge.

Deliberately ride in certain gear/rpm range to create it.

 

So ez to avoid that in 99% of riding I did that it was a non-issue.

 

Of course keeping it in fit trim didn't hurt.

[roger 04 rt]

...

 

Roger- Do you mean to pull the cat code plug? I've read so many posts about that little cube- some folks say pull it, some folks say don't.

Mine is yellow, and I haven't pulled it.

 

My plan is to do the whole tune up thing- Valve Adj, TB sync and TPS check / adjust (might hire this out- sounds like I could really screw things up messing with that thing). Thought I'd try this O2 disconnect first. Maybe put a couple new plug in there too. But last Friday this thing was running very nice- except for the low speed surging.

 

Hoping to ride this weekend.... Dave

 

Yes, I was saying to remove the Yellow Coding Plug. That will tell the Motronic to ignore the O2 sensor. If you run fuel with 10% Ethanol (where do you live), don't expect much of a change. If you can get fuel with no ethanol, no Coding plug could make a difference. Then it will likely idle with a rich mixture, which you could fix with a Coding Plug.

 

If you have ethanol in your fuel, pull the coding plug and install a BoosterPlug. I have a loaner which you could try for the cost of two-way postage.

 

First, I would do a good job with the tune-up and ride, see how it is.

 

 

Relevant Side Note

We're about to get a lot of information on R1100 fueling. A friend has just installed an Innovate Motorsports LC-1 and has started collecting AFR data. The install went very well.

 

The most important note is that with the Coding Plug installed, the R1100 fuels very similarly (can't see the differences at this point) to the R1150. I will be posting this info in the Wideband O2 thread, soon I hope.

 

Edited August 7, 2013 by roger 04 rt

[Dave P]

Oilheads- Well my first order of business is getting this pig to run again! Hopefully it is those cables and barrels! This oilhead is new to me but from 1994 until last May I rode an R80RT. Old school.

 

Been doing a lot of reading and asking about the surge problem- many of you are familiar with it- steady throttle, like 30mph through town, 2nd gear, the throttle pulses up and down. Pretty regular rythmn.

 

Once we are back running I plan to:

1. Valve check and adjust

2. Couple of new plugs

3. throttle body sync

4. Throttle Position sensor check and adjust (probably hire this out)

 

After all of this, if I still feel the surging I'll probably look into an add on device. Techlusion 1031 was recommended to me.

 

Am I asking for problems running with no CCP? Thanks again! Dave

[Jim Moore]

If you ask this question on Advrider.com in the GSpot section, someone will immediatley pop up a picture of the throttle cable issue. It might be helpful to know what you're looking at / for.

 

As far as running with no ccp, you will notice a decrease in fuel mileage if you do a lot iof in-town riding. Besides that, it's all good.

[chrisolson]

... After all of this, if I still feel the surging I'll probably look into an add on device. Techlusion 1031 was recommended to me. Dave

If you get to that stage of adding a device I would highly recommend the BMW-AF-XIED instead of the Techlusion. Installs inline with the O2 sensor only without having to mess with an injector connection or connector sealing plugs. Works directly to an AFR target with one dial rather than having to adjust 4 separate pots.

[Dave P]

Jim- I've heard about messing up the Catlytic converter with no CCP in place cause it will be running too rich- CO levels too high? Is there a replacement for the yellow cube that would richen it up a bit? I think the pink one is leaner- don't want that. Tune up stuff first of course. Doesn't seem like we should have to buy an add on system to get our bikes to run right, you know? D

[tobyzusa]

Was it the cable seating? You are getting good advice here...

[Jim Moore]

Jim- I've heard about messing up the Catlytic converter with no CCP in place cause it will be running too rich- CO levels too high? Is there a replacement for the yellow cube that would richen it up a bit? I think the pink one is leaner- don't want that. Tune up stuff first of course. Doesn't seem like we should have to buy an add on system to get our bikes to run right, you know? D

 

Lots of folks have pulled their CCPs on 1100 series bikes. I've never heard of a clogged catalytic converter.

[smiller]

Jim- I've heard about messing up the Catlytic converter with no CCP in place cause it will be running too rich

I did all kinds of testing/mods/Power Commander on my R1100 for years and then somehow got the notion that I may have damaged the cat converter so I removed the element, and there was no physical damage at all. It's effectiveness may have been reduced, I don't know, but certainly nothing that would affect gas flow or performance. So it would consider the potential of cat damage from messing with the CCP to be a non-issue.

[Dave P]

Toby- I'll know when I get home in about a half hour if the cable was the problem. crossing my fingers. d

[Dave P]

Toby and everyone- Just checked all of the cable ends- all cable ends are seated correctly at the throttle bodies and it still runs like crap. Shakes like sister Kate. Bad idle. Thought this was gonna be a simple one...Dave

[dirtrider]

Evening Dave

 

Well you checked the easy thing.

 

Now you are going to have to get serious.

 

So, start with that spark plug you removed. Maybe cracked or damaged. Try installing a new spark plug before getting more involved. (always start with what you did last before your problem showed up)

 

If a NEW spark plug doesn't help then follow that spark plug wire up to under the front of the fuel tank & make darn sure you didn't tug on the plug wire & pull it part way out of the coil. Also look to see if that R/H plug wire is/was rubbing on the throttle body cam (I have seen a few 1100's do this)

 

Next, while you have it apart to check the throttle cable seating-- operate the twist grip & make sure BOTH side throttle cams pull off of their stop screws AT EXACTLY THE SAME TIME. If not find out why.

 

If still nothing found in the above then you will probably have to start with the basics, like--

 

A compression test-

 

A cranking spark test across a 3/16" spark gap-

 

A cranking injector spray test-

 

Maybe check the engine sensors like oil (engine) temp, TPS, HES, etc.

 

You need good (even) air flow into both cylinders of the engine, good fuel flow to & through both the fuel injectors, good compression on both sides, good strong spark across both spark plugs, fairly good flowing exhaust to have a good running engine ---so you need to find what you are missing.

 

[roger 04 rt]

... Doesn't seem like we should have to buy an add on system to get our bikes to run right, you know? D

 

I believe you can get your bike to run "right" without any add-on. However, it is also possible to get your motor to run much better than "right" if you add just a few percent to the fueling.

 

Two days ago I had a test drive of a GSW. Great bike. 125 HP engine. Ran terrifically. EPA lean fueled, very twitchy throttle. I believe you can find the epa's effects on every BMW twin over the past 20 years.

Edited August 7, 2013 by roger 04 rt

[Dave P]

Roger- I will go down tonight to look at the plug wires at the coil and also look at the cams and stop screws relationship.

 

As far as all of the other tests, it was running fine (except for the surging) last Friday before I disconnected the O2 sensor. I don't see why my compression would be different, injectors spraying poorly or other problems all of a sudden.

 

All I did was lift the tank, disconnect the O2 sensor and remove one spark plug.

Dave

[Dave P]

Here we are...

 

Plug wires tight at the coil, throttle stops bottoming out at the same point. had a couple of newish plugs (same model plug) in the garage, put a new one in the right side. noticed the left side wire lead was laying kinda close to the alternator so I moved it away from the alternator. Throttle cables seated properly. disconnected and reconnected injector electric connections and connection at air filter. Start up, runs bad and gave me a nice backfire. Dave

[roger 04 rt]

Dave,

Maybe your Motronics adaptive values are off. Pull fuse 5 for 10 minutes, reinstall and see what happens. I forget whether you've done that or not. It's a long shot but easy to try.

RB

[Jim Moore]

The TPS electrical connector is down at the left throttle body. Did you kick that off when you were wrestling with the tank? Do you have quick disconnects? Are they snapped together all the way.

 

These things aren't that complicated. It's something simple. We'll figure it out.

[Dave P]

Roger- Well I have pulled that number 5 fuse, but I only had it out for 10 (or so) seconds, not 10 minutes. guess that's worth a try.

 

As far as bumping the TPS connector, I've been standing on the right side of the bike every time I lift the tank and every time I go poking around under there. I don't think I've even touched the TPS (paranoid)and I have not disconnected the TPS plug. I have reconnected the O2 sensor (first thing I tried). I have disconnected the fuel injector plugs and reconnected and the airbox connector too.

 

There is a flat, black multi pin (4 or 5 pin?)on the right side I've done the same with. There is a peculiar connector up by the O2 sensor that I haven't cracked open. it looks taped or something. I think I'm going to open that thing up tonight. It is right by the O2 connection so it's possible I bumped that spot.

 

By the way, I'm grateful for the online advice- just getting frustrated up here in Syracuse. Dave

[dirtrider]

Morning Dave

 

It probably isn't a compression issue but you really need start somewhere solid & verify ALL possibilities. Even removing a spark plug can knock a piece of carbon loose & hold a valve open.

 

Obviously something happened during removing the tank, disconnecting the 02, & removing a spark plug.

 

There are basically 2 ways to trouble shoot this problem--

 

Just start randomly trying things hoping to stumble upon the cause.

 

OR, have a game plan & work your way through the majors like compression, fueling, spark, etc.

 

The obvious in your case would be a throttle body offset like that mentioned throttle cable on top of the furrel. But you have eliminated that possibility so it then gets more complicated like a spark issue or fuel delivery issue or even a unique issue.

 

On a problem like yours & nothing obvious showing like a cracked spark plug or plug wire pulled loose my troubleshooting tree would go something like this.

 

-Remove both spark plugs & run a quick verification cranking compression test.

 

-Ground one side spark plug wire (or use the spark plug on the engine block), then install a modified spark with a 3/16" electrode gap in the other side & crank the engine looking for a SNAPPY bluish colored spark. Then reverse that to check the other side. If a yellowish or weak spark found find & repair that problem first.

 

-Next, remove the fuel injectors (leaving the wires & fuel line hooked up then point them into a glass jar & crank the engine looking for a good spray pattern with enough spray volume to properly run the engine. If one side spray pattern is weak looking or the spray cone is odd find out why.

 

From there it would depend on what I found in any the above.

 

I have found over the years that it is quicker just to verify the basics than to jump around hoping to find something by chance.

 

 

Added: One other possibility-- with you lifting the fuel tank up (if) there was any water down in that R/H lower tank wing that might now be in the main fuel supply & causing issues.

 

You might try running a quart or two of fuel out & into a glass jar, then letting sit overnight then look for water in the bottom of that jar.

 

Edited August 8, 2013 by dirtrider

[Dave P]

Dirt- I do have a compression tester (gage on a hose) but how on earth do you install the thing? There probably is a special oilhead compression tester needed. The spark plug hole is like 8" in there! I was quite gentle when I removed that plug. Also had the right valve cover off for a little painting.

 

I've been avoiding an injector disconnect since currently it isn't leaking. I also have not removed the tank, just lifted it, but I suppose the water in the fuel idea could be a possibility.

 

What does a backfire indicate? Seems like something fuel related is scrambled eggs. Dave

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Dave

 

On the compression tester?--- I use a Snap-On compression tester that has long hoses with appropriate spark plug thread size/reach on the end. Snap-On uses very stiff adapter hoses that are strong enough to twist the threaded end into the plug hole from the gauge fitting end.

 

You have a couple of homemade choices-- You can take an old spark plug then break the porcelain out then weld (or epoxy) a long pipe on that gutted spark plug body then connect your compression gauge to that pipe.

 

Or, make a long pipe/tube with a rubber stopper on one end (hole through the rubber stopper), hook that to your compression tester then simply hold that in the plug hole while cranking the engine.

 

When you say backfire are you talking about (conventional) backfire into the intake system? Or, are you talking post-fire with it firing in the muffler? (firing in the muffler is technically not back firing)

 

[Dave P]

dirtrider- Well my compression tester has a pretty stiff hose with an O ring at the fitting, from what I remember, in order to get a good reading, that o ring needs to be compressed- like with a wrench. I should actually get it out and try it before I say it can't be done. Just hook it up, disconnect the injectors and crank it a few times, right? record the numbers.

 

As far as the backfire, It wasn't like it blew the windows out on the garage door, wasn't really loud. But my wife heard it upstairs. Guess I didn't know there were two different kinds of (mis)-fire. That's probably the right term. Dave

[roger 04 rt]

Dave,

There's a long hollow spark plug wrench in the tool kit. Could the hose be snaked up through the center?

[Peter Parts]

Betcha the issues will become very clear as soon as you try a short ride with dual vacuum gauges. (Far less helpful, a ride with them newfangled electronic gauges.)

 

Ben

 

Edited August 8, 2013 by Peter Parts

[Peter Parts]

Can't seem to get a picture of dual vacuum gauges mounted on my R1100S to open on this thread.

Ben

 

Edited August 8, 2013 by Peter Parts

[Dave P]

Peter- The bike is running so poorly at this point I dont think it is rideable. So a short ride is not in the cards. I've got a homemade balancer I made for my airhead with red transmission fluid in it, guess I could hook it to the vacuum ports and see what happens, just a look at, no adjustments...

 

I think I'm going to start going trough a specific list of things to check- got to put together some sort of adapter on my vacuum gage. so i wont have those figures until the weekend.

 

The #5 fuse pull to reset the FI system: is it 10 seconds or 10 minutes, and is that with the ignition off?

 

Cant wait to get this solved and tell you all about it! Dave

[dirtrider]

Evening Dave

 

Not a lot to re-set on the BMW 1100 Ma 2.2 system, just the limited adaptives. Those can't get far enough out of whack to cause your kind or non rideable backfiring so you have some other issue than pulling the #5 fuse will solve.

 

[Peter Parts]

Peter- The bike is running so poorly at this point I dont think it is rideable. So a short ride is not in the cards. I've got a homemade balancer I made for my airhead with red transmission fluid in it, guess I could hook it to the vacuum ports and see what happens, just a look at, no adjustments...

If things are really off the rails, it will just suck the red stuff into one TB.

 

There are only a few systems and likely only one is bad. So just basic checking might reveal which: compression (including valve function), spark, spritz, butterfly..., Each has its own basic check if you work logically. Pity you can't do vacuum testing, even just one side at a time.

 

I miss the directness of wrenching on my modified R80RT. Oilheads are quite a different world.

 

BTW, you didn't touch the factory-set butterfly stops?

 

Ben

[Dave P]

Peter- from 1994 until last may, I too rode an R80RT!

 

I didnt touch anything TB related (butterfly stops included). All I did was:

 

1. Lifted the back of the tank

2. disconnected the O2 sensor

3. Removed the right side spark plug

 

That's all I did. don't see how the throttle bodies could be out of sync. Dave

[Peter Parts]

I see you checked the plug wire. Any number of places where spark can get aborted, esp. with a somewhat elderly high voltage system. Maybe even some spark wires dislodged when you moved the tank.

 

Might be time to look further at spark, first to "read" the plugs (comparing the two). Then. while resting plug(s) on chassis/ground, seeing if you can see a spark (including on a plug with a large gap... doesn't have to be the Oilhead plug size), trying to run engine with a plug with a very small gap... all the usual tests.

 

BTW, you definitely want pointy iridium plugs for these bikes, not the inconceivable multi-electrode plugs - should help with the surging, since you might be out riding happily this weekend.

 

Ben

Edited August 9, 2013 by Peter Parts

[dirtrider]

Morning Dave

 

You have a lot of things on your list to check. I'll add one more.

 

One I should have mentioned yesterday was to pop the timing hole cover off then put a timing light on one of the spark plug wires & check the running ignition timing (if you can keep it running).

 

See if the spark is consistent as well as fairly steady on timing.

 

You might have moved the HES (hall effect sensor) wire pig tail enough to have that now acting up (they usually just work or quit but you never know with older electrical things.

 

The BMW 1100 had a rather poorly built HES that the wires near the sensor (sensor is under the lower front belt pulley) would crack & deteriorate the wire insulation, therefore causing the sensor signal to become corrupt or non-existent.

 

If you washed the bike with the tupperware off then that HES sensor would be even higher on my possibility list.

 

[Dave P]

Peter / Dirt- Last night I grounded both plugs and checked the spark. They look like they are sparking ok to me and look the same on both sides. Also took Q tips soaked with alcohol and cleaned off several electrical connections FI, TPS, airbox and that flat 5 pin on the right side. Didn't start it up.

 

Fabricating a adapter for my compression tester today. I didn't wash the bike with the bodywork off, I'd like to wash off the outside of the throttle bodies- kinda grimy.

 

So I should check my timing? it does idle after it has been running a minute or so, but when I rev it, it runs up, breaks up and pops. I'd want to check timing at idle, but also with rpms up. right? Dave

[Dave P]

Dirt- as I'm reading about Hall Effect Sensors it sounds like the wiring coming out of the sensor is its weak link. If I remove the HES and examine it, maybe rewire any bad sections and reinstall wonder if that might be a plan... Dave

[Peter Parts]

HES (or the chain of stuff connected to it) - is quite plausible fault.

 

Timing with a light.... ha, ha, ha.... I find this a terrible pain of the Oilheads world. I'm sure there are ways of getting hints about adequacy of timing, but not much more. Time to read a book about ECUs. Timing might be the only thing ECUs do better than smart CV carbs. Timing curves are really complex.

 

BTW, many junky contact cleaners. But if you can get stuff made by the DeOxit company, you've got a good one (audiophiles use nothing else).

 

I don't know if anybody mentioned the vacuum take-off ports on the bottoms of the TBs (not sure about your model....). Not likely to lead to your symptoms (even if it is always the first thing mentioned whatever the problem along with dirty fuel filters), but have a look.

 

Vacuum gauge(s)?

 

Ben

Edited August 9, 2013 by Peter Parts

[Mark K]

Dirt- as I'm reading about Hall Effect Sensors it sounds like the wiring coming out of the sensor is its weak link. If I remove the HES and examine it, maybe rewire any bad sections and reinstall wonder if that might be a plan... Dave

 

At 100k, you need plan on replacing the HES wiring if it looks like it hasn't already been done. Plenty of info/sources here if you do a search.

 

I am puzzled by the sudden stumbling.......are you certain that both TBs are closing completely when you release the throttle? You hear them both click against their stops?

 

Perhaps you disturbed a vacuum hose/plug?

[Dave P]

Mark- yeah maybe i can get int that this winter.

 

I've checked and checked vacuum hoses and wiring over and over. there is nothing disconnected. I hardly touched anything. Have not touched the TBs. Have hot touched the TPS. All I did was disconnect the O2 and remove a spark plug. Have not made my compression tester adapter yet so I haven't run the comp test yet.

 

I just removed he tank and re-examined the electrical connections under the tank. everything appears as it should be. disconnected the HES plug, cleaned the contacts and reconnected. drained a couple pints of gas out of the tank. No evidence of any water in there. I've cleaned every terminal I can find. Still idles bad, runs high and is slow to drop after a throttle blip. no pinched fuel lines. Throttle cables seated correctly.

 

Going into a week of diagnosis here. Dave

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Dave

 

This is getting more & more bizarre.

 

Your problem isn't vacuum lines (those hardly effect the above idle operation)

 

Do make sure your throttle bodies are fully seated in the forward rubber boots ( I have seen those pull out far enough to cause issues)

 

When you took a gasoline sample did you disconnect the pressure side fuel line then use the in-tank fuel pump to pump out the sample? If you just sucked a little gasoline out the filler opening with a hose that would more than likely miss any water that is heavier than gasoline & settles to the tank bottom.

 

Are you absolutely sure BOTH throttle cams lift off the stop screws at the very same time? (positive, positive, positive?)

 

Do they both stroke FULL OPEN together then SMOOTHLY return to the idle stop screws at the EXACT same time? (again POSITIVE)

 

See if you can get a timing light on that thing. Point it in the timing hole then run & revv the engine. You should see the spark "advance" in a linear fashion & not jump around too much (1100 Ma 2.2 is a lot steadier than the dynamic 1150 Ma 2.4 system)

 

Make sure the timing light always flashes, if the timing light goes blank during your engine misfires then look for the possibility of you losing spark causing that engine misfire.

 

OK-- now more info from you-- Tell us EXACTLY how you removed the fuel tank, what hoses you disconnected, any wires pulled on or disconnected, how far did you tilt it, etc (the more we know on EXACTLY how you removed the tank & disconnected the 02 sensor the better possibility of helping you find the problem).

 

 

 

Edited August 10, 2013 by dirtrider

[Dave P]

I GOT IT!!! I GOT IT!!! Mark- I owe it all to you!

 

Went back down one more time and checked the throttle stops. Well I thought I heard the plates clicking at the same time when I snapped it closed. Well i was really only hearing one side (the left side) the stop on the right was about 1/8" from being closed. fiddled with the little cam on the right TB and "Bing!" it snapped into position. Started it up and we're back in business!

 

Bet you all think I'm a doofus. I appreciate your help and patience. Dave

[dirtrider]

clip---Bet you all think I'm a doofus. I appreciate your help and patience. Dave

 

Afternoon Dave

 

Congratulations on your success.

 

Nobody thinks of anybody on this site as Doofus, just consider it a hard fought learning experience.

 

The good new is: bet you NEVER get caught by throttle cable to furrel being out of position again.

 

[Jim Moore]

Congrats. You're part of the club. Now, when someone comes on and says, "I pulled the tank and now it runs like crap," you can jump in and tell him about the throttle cable trick. It's kind of a race to see who does it first.

[Peter Parts]

I GOT IT!!! I GOT IT!!! Mark- I owe it all to you!

 

Went back down one more time and checked the throttle stops. Well I thought I heard the plates clicking at the same time when I snapped it closed. Well i was really only hearing one side (the left side) the stop on the right was about 1/8" from being closed. fiddled with the little cam on the right TB and "Bing!" it snapped into position. Started it up and we're back in business!

 

Bet you all think I'm a doofus. I appreciate your help and patience. Dave

 

Dual vacuum gauges would have revealed that instantly and clearly.

 

(Wish I had a nickel for each time I ran in circles fixing my own gear.)

 

Ben

Edited August 11, 2013 by Peter Parts

[Dave P]

You know I kept checking the barrels on the tops of the TBs and everything looked good, i never got on down on the creeper to look up from underneath.

Once I did that it was obvious. Now onto that surge question...Dave

[dirtrider]

Clip---- Now onto that surge question...

 

Morning Dave

 

The place to start on the surge is to first check & then re-set the cross side Throttle Body balance as you are already in there.

 

Once the TB balance is within reason then either follow your original path on trying it with the 02 sensor disconnected (that won't hurt the 02 sensor), OR simply remove the CCP from the fuse box then ride it for while to see if the surging is lowered to an acceptable level.

 

If running with the 02 disconnected or with the CCP removed doesn't make you happy with the runability & lower the light throttle surging then you will have to get serious & add something to add more fuel to the light throttle surging operating range. See Rogers info on the LC-1 or his new BMW-AF-XIED product.