GS driveshaft removal questions

[Missouri Bob]

I’m thinking about pulling the driveshaft out of my 2008 R1200GS so that I can have the u-joints replaced. From what I read, the shaft should just pull out (with some force) without removing the swing-arm.

 

1) What is required to put the shaft back into place?

2) How does one line-up the front of the driveshaft with the transmission output?

3) How is force applied to the shaft to get it to “seat”?

4) What about the boot between the swing-arm and the transmission, can I get by with pulling it back from the transmission?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob

 

[Bernie]

I’m thinking about pulling the driveshaft out of my 2008 R1200GS so that I can have the u-joints replaced. From what I read, the shaft should just pull out (with some force) without removing the swing-arm.

Insert a large screw driver or similar pry bar between the output shaft and the front u-joint, after you pull the boot back and lower the swingarm as far you can, disconnect bottom shock mount first.

 

1) What is required to put the shaft back into place?

Patience and a second person with good eyes and small fingers.

2) How does one line-up the front of the driveshaft with the transmission output?

It takes some fiddling, It is best to disconnect the bottom shock mount to let you easier lift and lower the swingarm to help line up the splines.

3) How is force applied to the shaft to get it to “seat”?

After you get the spline started, you can take a rounded steel rod and apply force with a hammer on the center of the rear u-joint, it will not take much force.

4) What about the boot between the swing-arm and the transmission, can I get by with pulling it back from the transmission?

Yes, by moving the swing arm up and down you should be able to do everything you to do. Don't forget to grease the boot on the swing arm side.

 

Thanks.

 

Bob

[Smidsy]

Are there any problems you noticed which prompted you to want to proactively rebuild the driveshaft? Mine seems to have a lot of driveline lash but I'm not sure how much is normal.

 

Where are you having the driveshaft rebuilt?

[Missouri Bob]

The rear u-joint is looser around one axis than it is around the other. A few years ago, I had a u-joint failure on a different hexhead. Wanting to avoid an on-road failure, I think it might be prudent to have the u-joints replaced.

 

If you poke around this forum, you will find someone who replaces the u-joints with ones incorporating grease fittings. The work is not inexpensive but it is far less than the repairs resulting from a failed u-joint.

 

Bob

[10ovr]

MSI dose a great job,,I have used them 6 times,,Give them a call,, $250 + shipping http://www.machineservice.com/products/drive-shafts/

[Ken H.]

Are there any problems you noticed which prompted you to want to proactively rebuild the driveshaft? Mine seems to have a lot of driveline lash but I'm not sure how much is normal.

Personal opinion, one could spend their whole life (and budget) rebuilding/replacing stuff that might go wrong. While there have been some driveshaft failures, as a % of BMW shaft driven bikes on the road it’s exceedingly small. Absent any clear indication that there is a developing problem – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

 

BTW, “a lot” is a subjective term, but total driveline lash at the rear tire is always pretty large on BMW bikes compared to some others. If it was coming from the driveshaft you almost certainly would have much more obvious symptoms. When they do fail, it’s catastrophically.

 

[Missouri Bob]

Again, the rear u-joint seems less than entirely healthy AND I have experienced a u-joint failure. While doing a pre-trip inspection, I discovered that that particular u-joint was within a (very) few miles of grenading.

 

Bob

 

[Smidsy]

Any tips on performing a U-joint inspection?

[Missouri Bob]

As I was turning the rear wheel, I felt a "clunk" that I had not felt before. When I disconnected the torque arm and the caliper I was able to expose the rear u-joint. It didn't look good. Most of the needle bearings had left the caps. I've posted these photos before. In both photos you can see where the two yokes were beating against each other.

 

 

Although I cannot say with certainty, had I inspected the u-joint several hundred miles earlier, I may not have noticed anything. I don't think that these failures provide much advance notice. I was just lucky.

 

Bob

[Smidsy]

Thanks Bob!