stripped drain plug in final drive

[Snowcat]

Have a stripped drain plug in the final drive. Actually, the allan part of the plug is stripped. I have an idea of what I am to do about the situation but wanted to know if anyone has been confronted with this before. Thought I would drill out the drain plug with the bike on the center stand. After drilling through the plug, I would use an EZ out to remove the plug. Hate the thought of taking the bike to a dealer for the removal of a stripped plug. Thanks in advance.

[dirtrider]

Morning Snowcat

 

Please keep in mind that an Easy-Out is the most mis-named tool in existence. That tool should really be named "next to impossible to get out after use".

 

An easy out works great IF what you are trying to remove is already loose & moves easily. If it (the fastener) is tight to begin with then all that easy out will do is expand it even more & make it tighter yet.

 

If you then break the easy out off (they are very very brittle) which is ever so easy to do you then have real problems as they are too hard to drill out.

 

I presume since the hex in the plug is stripped that the plug was tight enough to allow the proper tool to strip the hex.

 

I have had good luck in the past with using a small punch at a slight angle & driving the plug head in the removal direction to loosen it.

 

Next, maybe try using a slightly larger torx & driving that into the hex socket (works great if the plug isn't frozen super tight).

 

Or, a favorite of mine, is using a slightly larger allen that I have ground down to be a very tight fit in the hex then driving that in & putting a socket on the allen stub.

 

You will probably need to mix metric & standard allen & torx sizes to find a slightly larger (drive in) size.

 

[AndyS]

As DR suggests. I personally like to drive a close fitting TORX bit into the cavity left by the hex. The act of tapping it in, can also help to loosen things. It must be a tight fit, or it too will just turn.

[Snowcat]

Thx for the reply. Haha, funny you should mention the over sized torx. Just tapped one in and it seems pretty tight. Haven't tried removal of the plug until a replacement plug is in hand. I know what you mean with the EZ outs. They can sometimes make things worse. As always, this forum is a great source to go to. Thx to all.

[AndyS]

Maybe some heat on the housing too. Of course be careful, but is worth it to try and reduce the risk of damaging that bolt.

[Snowcat]

Yep heat is good. If nothing else I thought I would go for a half a day ride just to warm things up a bit. Thx.

[AndyS]

I was thinking a little more localised and hotter than that!

[dirtrider]

Yep heat is good. If nothing else I thought I would go for a half a day ride just to warm things up a bit. Thx.

 

Afternoon Snowcat

 

IF, heat is needed (probably not) you will need more than a ride-it-warm heat.

 

One of my favorites used to heat an allen head or torx head bolt without damaging the surrounding housing paint is to take a proper fitting allen wrench or old torx driver. Then heat that with a torch, stove, or other means to be glowing red hot. Then simply insert in the bolt head.

 

That will localize heat the bolt head & expand it, then as it cools it will usually shrink & contract enough to allow easier removal.

 

[Snowcat]

Thx for the localized heating tip, good idea.

[wymanwinn]

i would NOT use heat but rather this...

 

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/15048/

 

or this...

 

http://www.sockitout.com/

 

 

wyman

[Snowcat]

I love tools and have more than I use but I have never seen these extractors before. Thx for the tool idea. Starting to get a lot of ideas to try. Thx.

[pmurphy]

Assuming we a talking about the RT, I believe that that fastener is a torx, and not a hex.

Might not be stripped at all. Max's site does show a torx for that application.

[Snowcat]

I will check it out. I purchased the bike used and someone has tried to take the plug out. Not sure if the plug is hex or torx at this point although I did manage to tap a torx in the plug and it seemed pretty tight. This leads me to believe that what you are telling me is correct. Thx for the info.

[na1g]

There's a tool for every problem job. Ya just gotta find it!

 

I was going to suggest one of those impact drivers that you hit with a hammer. I've had some success with that but maybe not a good idea on the alloy transmission case? Could make a PITA problem into a $$$$ problem.

 

Please let us know how you make out, Snowcat.

 

pete

[Snowcat]

I think you are correct in maybe not using an impact driver in this situation. They are no doubt a good item for the tool box, I have two (nothing like having a backup). Ordered the new drain plug and o-ring today, will arrive next week. I will let all know how things go. Haha, if I start begging for someone to bring a trailer to my house, you will know things didn't work out so well. Until then..........

[Clive Liddell]

I hope I'm in time with this comment

 

It's a good idea to check that you can undo the filler plug before attacking the drain plug!

 

Good luck

 

[Snowcat]

Hey, you know you have a great point. I must check that first. All of the imput is great. Love this forum. Man, I hope the filler plug isn't that tight. Anyone ever use Kroil? I have used in the past to loosen frozen fasteners with great success. Small can will last for a long time. Thx Clive.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Snowcat

 

I wouldn't worry too much about removing the fill plug (probably have to swing the muffler out & remove the rear wheel to access that fill plug).

 

If you can't easily get the fill plug out when the time comes it is just as easy to remove the rear wheel speed sensor & fill it though that hole.

 

[Snowcat]

Yeah I feel ya Dirtrider, good idea. Didn't know that tip about the rear wheel speed sensor removal to fill it. Trying to do this the easiest way I can, had a total knee replacement this past winter making getting up and down from the floor a real exercise. Really need a bike lift. Oh well I can manage. Thx Dirtrider.

[Snowcat]

All is well. Received the new drain plug for the final drive yesterday. The damaged plug as well as the new drain plug are T45 and not hex. I gave the old plug a few shots of Kroil to help remove it, the stuff never seems to fail me. I tapped in a T45 into the damaged drain plug until tight and removed the plug, no problem. Removed the exhaust and wheel to get to the fill plug, removal was a snap. 180 ml of fluid in the final drive and installed removed parts, no problems. Did a shake down run of 300 miles, it was a perfect day, and checked for leaks and found none. I would like to thank all who tried to help me get through this little problem. The forum is a wonderful source of info and knowledge from a group of great people. Be safe.