RTRay Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I was just out starting to go for a ride on this beautiful 55 deg day in Northern Illinois and my R1100RT wouldn't start back up after I stopped it for a minute to make a stereo adjustment. It did the same thing last fall and wouldn't start for about an hour, then started right up. I don't hear the fuel pump ramp up when I turn the key on. It will turn over but not start. I checked the pump relay and fuse and they both appear to be in good condition. Any ideas before I call the tow truck? HELP! Terry Link to comment
bigboy Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 hi terry If the fuel pump wont engage with ignition on it sounds electrical, check you have enough fuel in the tank ,i know that sounds silly but it can happen , then check the connector for the pump it,s on the iiner front side of the tank r.h.s , check all of your switches side stand etc. other than this it could be a hall sensor or a motronic problem. Link to comment
RTRay Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 It has over half a tank of fuel. I just got off the phone with my mechanic and he says to check the fuel pump electrical line. I guess I'm going to get to take off the plastic tonight. The left side comes off easy. Where is this fuel pump line at that I'm going to check? He thinks that it might be loose or have a break in it. I was riding last weekend and I shifted my wieght forward to a more comfortable sitting position and the bike burped. It didn't quit, it just cut out for a split second. Does this sound like a short problem? With the help of my wife I was able to get it home OK! It wasn't pretty, but we did it! Thanks, Terry Link to comment
Boffin Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 This sounds to me like a Hall Effect Sensor failure - do a search on HES. A simple repair, but fairly costly if you buy a new HES. There is a good illustrated walkthrough of a sensor repair, complete with part numbers on Ebbo's web page. This takes a little longer but costs a whole bunch less. Cya, Andy Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 This sounds to me like a Hall Effect Sensor failure No, with a HES failure, the pump will still spin up when you turn the key on. This definitely is not an HES problem. -sidestand switch? does RID wake up when you turn the key on? If so, sidestand switch is OK; if not, SSS may be balky. -pump connection (under right rear corner of tank)? -flaky kill switch? try thumping handlebar. Will take a look at schematic (see Haynes manual if you've got one) for more ideas. Link to comment
Boffin Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Oops, missed that one - even though it was writ large in the original post. Do you have a neutral light? Does pulling the clutch in help? (Neutral switch checks) Is the kill switch on (I once spent two hours waiting for breakdown service because of a kill switch in the off position ) If all these check out then the sidestand switch sounds most likely - its position makes a good crud trap. BTW, CRUD is an acronym, it means China River Unidentified Deposits Cya, Andy Link to comment
RTRay Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 OK, I tried turning it on in neutral and I do have a full RID and neutral light. It's on the centerstand right now and it makes no difference if the side stand is down or not. I still don't hear the fuel pump spin up. I also tried hitting the kill switch, switched it back and forth and it turns the RID on and off just as you would expect. How do I get to the pump connection? I have had the full left side plastic off but never the right. I started to take it off one day but it was VERY difficult to get off so I didn't take it all the way off. Can I get to the connector without taking the right side off. What am I looking for? I have the thick shop manual for the bike but I don't see a picture of what I am looking for. Thanks, Terry Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 How do I get to the pump connection? I have had the full left side plastic off but never the right. I started to take it off one day but it was VERY difficult to get off so I didn't take it all the way off. Can I get to the connector without taking the right side off. What am I looking for? I have the thick shop manual for the bike but I don't see a picture of what I am looking for. Gotta take that right panel off. Don't know why you had difficulty with it; I don't recall it being more difficult than the left. You are looking for an electrical connector below the right-rear corner of the tank. Look at right rear bottom corner of tank, you'll see a bolt holding it to the frame of the bike. Now move directly forward from that bolt an inch or two, and you'll see the connector there, about an inch wide and maybe 3/8" thick. The bike harness side of the connector is locked into a tang on the frame. Check to make sure the tank side of the connector is seated properly. In fact, turn the ignition on while you wiggle the connector; that might help confirm whether the problem is right there or not. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Can I get to the connector without taking the right side off. What am I looking for? I have the thick shop manual for the bike but I don't see a picture of what I am looking for. Take the right side fairing off. The fuel pump's electrical connection should be in the vicinity of the right throttle body. Look for the two fuel lines running forward from the regulator to the tank. The fuel pump's electrical cable should be close by. It is a rectangular connector with several pins (I forget how many...but definitely more than 3) It might be attacked to a bracket that's welded onto the frame, unless it has broken off like pretty much every RT I've ever seen. Link to comment
RTRay Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 OK, I WILL get the right side off--this weekend. I just ran out of time tonight. Got to rest so I can earn a living in the morning! Thank, Terry Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Is there a fuel pump fuse or relay? That would sure be easier to check first. Never mind. just re-read your post. Link to comment
Wooster Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have had the full left side plastic off but never the right. I started to take it off one day but it was VERY difficult to get off so I didn't take it all the way off. Mustangman40, I know no left/right differences and wonder, have you missed a screw on rightside tupperware ? Wooster Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have had the full left side plastic off but never the right. I started to take it off one day but it was VERY difficult to get off so I didn't take it all the way off. Mustangman40, I know no left/right differences and wonder, have you missed a screw on rightside tupperware ? Wooster Good catch...I missed that part. If anything, the right side should come off easier than the left since the right doesn't have the glove box to get in the way. Dont' forget: * the screw up by the oil cooler * four screws in by the jugs * three screws on the exposed part of the tank, and one at the very aft. edge of the tank * long screw under the mirror Link to comment
RTRay Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 OK---I couldn't wait until this weekend. I went out and took off the right side plastic-I did have a screw that was sticking. Had no problem getting it off. Once I looked for the fuel pump connection I found it easily and it was not broken off the little mounting metal piece. I unhooked it and put it back together and turned the key and the fuel pump came right on and I started my bike!!!!! I then did some experimenting and found that it must have a short in the connector because I can move it around and cause the pump to not come on or come on depending on where I move the connector. Should I replace this entire connector unit with a new one or is there some way to clean it up and set it so it won't short out? Looks like it would be easy to replace if I had to do it. Is there a connector unit that I could get at Auto Zone or NAPA that I could use to replace this one, or should I use a BMW unit? Thanks! Terry Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I then did some experimenting and found that it must have a short in the connector because I can move it around and cause the pump to not come on or come on depending on where I move the connector. You don't have a short, you have an intermittent open. When I was going thru my fuel system I found this connector to be somewhat corroded. You can't replace it very well so your only choice is to clean it up. Get some pipe cleaners and/or small brushes. I have some brushes that they sell at bird food stores for cleaning hummingbird feeders that are stiff and do a good job. You might be able to get some scotchbright down the holes. The pins are easier to clean than the sockets. Then put some good dielectric grease on them (aka battery terminal grease). Finally, the cause of your bad connection is probably water getting into the connector. I found the boot that goes over the connector wasn't sealed at the top. I put a little RTV into the joint and then secured it with a very tight zip tie. Good luck, Jerry Link to comment
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