Speedbleeder Part #'s

[Tom R.]

To Jamie or any others knowledgable on Speedbleeders:

 

I searched and found the following from August '05 and just wanted to see if anything has changed:

 

For the 2002-2004 R1150RT I would use:

 

6 x SB7100 (7mmx1.00-Long) for the control circuits. You don't need different sizes, but the longer ones just make it easier to get the hose and wrench on them and there is no clearance issue that I found.

 

2 x SB8125 (8mmx1.25) for the front two calipers.

 

1 x SB6100 (6mmx1.00) for the rear caliper.

 

1 x SB1010S (10mmx1.00) for the clutch. You'll need to bevel (file, or drag on the concrete! ) the tip down a bit to make it easier to start the screw into the filler adapter.

 

Thanks to this board, I am going to perform a brake flush on my '03 RT and just wanted to confirm the recommendation from Jamie from last year. I plan to buy the hose and bleed bag along with the bottle of sealant as well.

[Ken H.]

That list is correct.

[Tom R.]

Thanks Ken!

[KMG_365]

Hi Tom, sorry I didn't see this earlier. As Ken said those are correct, but I would like to add that you should carefully follow the directions on the thread sealant (bake it on) lest it act like a lubricant and loosen the bleed screws as the parts heat up, vibrate and cool down!

 

Also, since they only thread in so far you might want to be sure you get good coverage right after that first thread, and perhaps just a bit on the first thread as well. And exercise care when starting them to avoid cross-threading.

[PETDOC]

Does anyone know if the same speedbleeders work in the '04 GS with servo ABS brakes? And do you permanantly replace OEM bleeders with speedbleeders or just use speedbleeder to bleed system then put OEM bleeders back in place? Also saw in another thread that on front caliper the OEM bleeder has a flat tip and you may have to file a small amount off speedbleeder--any truth to that? Thanks for any advice.

Dave

[Ken H.]

Does anyone know if the same speedbleeders work in the '04 GS with servo ABS brakes? And do you permanently replace OEM bleeders with speedbleeders or just use speedbleeder to bleed system then put OEM bleeders back in place? Also saw in another thread that on front caliper the OEM bleeder has a flat tip and you may have to file a small amount off speedbleeder--any truth to that? Thanks for any advice.

Dave

Yes, the R1150GS with ABS would be the same.

Yes you permanently install the speedbleeders.

I've not heard of that on front calipers. You may be recalling filing the tip of the speedbleeder for the clutch bleed point on hydraulic clutch equipped bikes. The only oddity on the front calipers that I know of is that some bikes from the factory have a "grub screw", a plug on one side instead of a bleeder that can be removed and discarded.

[Tom R.]

Thanks Jamie.

 

The Speedbleeders arrived the other day. I will take a close look at the sealant on the threads and follow your advice.

[Bill_Walker]

While we're on the subject, and to consolidate ordering information in one thread, does anybody have a take on regular vs. stainless steel? The SS ones cost twice as much. Is corrosion an issue with the non-SS ones?

 

Hmm, aluminum calipers, no? Sounds to me like SS would be a good idea.

[KMG_365]

[ . . . ] saw in another thread that on front caliper the OEM bleeder has a flat tip and you may have to file a small amount off speedbleeder--any truth to that?

I do remember someone saying that they were having trouble getting the SB to seat all the way down snugly if they didn't truncate the point on the SB a bit to match that of the stock bleed screw. While I didn't notice that on my '03 RT or Leslie's '02 RT, it wouldn't hurt to take just the tip off of the SB, as I didn't remember which model bike this person said they had. For purposes of illustration here are the various bleed screws:

 

They are L-R: stock 6mm rear caliper, stock 7mm (short ABS control circuit), stock 7mm (long ABS control circuit), stock 8mm front caliper, truncated SpeedBleeder 10mm clutch screw (and also front caliper on the R1100RT), non-truncated SpeedBleeder 10mm clutch screw.

 

You'll notice that the stock 6mm and 8mm screws that go into the calipers are truncated, whereas the stock 7mm ones (both the long and short) that go into the ABS control pump are not. It would be a very easy thing to file/grind off the tip of the SB to match the stock screws as the metal is VERY soft. This would eliminate any possibility of bottoming out the tip of the SB on the back of the caliper before achieveing a tight seal against the seat (look at the shiny ring just below the tip to get an idea of where the seat hits the screw). Of course this is JMHO.

 

does anybody have a take on regular vs. stainless steel? The SS ones cost twice as much. Is corrosion an issue with the non-SS ones?

 

Hmm, aluminum calipers, no? Sounds to me like SS would be a good idea.

I used an old 8mm stock screw in the end of the tubing attached to my syringe I used to drain the old BF and I noticed that it corroded shut in about 8 months when it sat with BF in it. The stock 6mm and 8mm caliper screws seem to be made of pot metal, but I don't know what kind of metal the non-SS SB's are made of. Seeing as how BF is so hygroscopic, if you were planning on keeping the bike for awhile, I guess it might be worth investing in the SS ones to make your life easier over the years that you own and service the bike, but it seems like the standard SB metal doesn't corrode as easily as the pot metal used to make the stock caliper screws (the ABS screws look like the same sort of "brassy" metal as the SB's). On the other hand, the SS screws might just be an option for "show cars" where the screws are exposed and are supposed to look pretty.

[PETDOC]

Ken,

I checked the speedbleeder web site and based on posts by ownwers (?) they indicate the front Evo caliper requires SB8125L (M8 x 1.25 x 32.34), whereas you suggested SB8125 (M8 x 1.25 x 27.99). Any thoughts on this and just out of curiosity what does the 32.34 stand for?

[PETDOC]

Ken,

Right after I sent last email I went back to Speedbleeder web site and clicked on link of new Speedbleeder, SB8125LL (http://www.speedbleeder.com/News.htm) , and answered part of my original question; however, I'm still in a quandry as to which would be best for Evo brakes the 8125 or 8125L.

[KMG_365]

I'm still in a quandry as to which would be best for Evo brakes the 8125 or 8125L.

It probably doesn't make that much difference for the front calipers that use the 8mm X 1.25 pitch threads, which in this case is the 8125(x) series. The only really important thing is that the screw fits and seats properly--the thread diameter (in this case 8mm) and proper pitch (i.e. 1.0 vs. 1.25). The other final numbers appear to describe the overall length (in mm) and since the front calipers are so easily reached, I would think that the shortest ones (i.e. the 8125's) would be the least vulnerable to being broken off by a piece of road debris. JMHO.

[PETDOC]

Jamie,

Thanks for the feedback. The Speedbleeders site has a picture of the 8215 and 8215L. The only difference appears to be the length of the portion you insert the drain tube over. I'm assuming longer may be better as it will allow you to get a better purchase on the bleeder by the drain hose.