2011 brake flush qu

[Lester V]

I do all my own maintenance except the brake flush so I took it to a master BMW tech (1st flush for the m/c). I was partly doing this to build a repore with this dealership.

 

Prior to the flush I asked the tech his process as I told him I wanted the same front brake firmness. His response was that he just flushes the fluid, no caliper/pad removal or pistons pushed in. I said Ok, as it sounded reasonable and he said the firmness was up to the owner to do. I never questioned him on this.

 

After the work ($150)the front lever was less firm (3/8" difference measured from the lever to the hbar)- it took more distance to pull to get the same braking level. The lever adjustment for travel was adjusted to the max to get the lever closer to the bar. It wasn't adjusted this way before.

 

I don't believe that there is any air trapped anywhere but I am wondering why this drastic change in the front lever and it's feel on braking. I always ride with 2 fingers on the front brake and like a firm lever so I am a bit miffed at something I will probably have to live with.

 

QU: If I attach a strap to hold the lever towards the bar and leave overnight can I get the original factory firmness on my front lever again?

If not then I will start doing my own flushes.

[cris nitro]

A "master BMW tech" told you it's up to the owner to do the "firmness" after he does a brake flush?? Unbelievable. The reason that you're supposed to pull the pads and use wood shims is to simulate new pads to provide the correct fluid level in your master cylinder. Frankly, I don't do that that when I flush and bleed. I do it the old fashioned way, pump, crack, repeat. Works for me.

 

First, I would either bitch to the mechanic and get him to bleed them properly and then never use him again, or

 

Ditch him altogether and bleed them yourself. If he flushed them and they don't feel as firm as before, then you definitely have air in there. You can try the strap lever to the bar trick, but just do a regular bleed process and you should be fine.

[GRB60]

I agree. What could an owner do to adjust them after the tech was done? I wouldn't shim either, since the brakes may have wear to account for the lower level in the reservoir.

[cjack]

I agree. What could an owner do to adjust them after the tech was done? I wouldn't shim either, since the brakes may have wear to account for the lower level in the reservoir.

 

The air is in the calipers which the tech did not bleed properly. At this point, you can leave the system closed and repeatedly push the caliper pucks all the way back. To do this, remove them from their mounting and carefully rock the calipers back and forth up a little on the disks. This will push them all the way in and push the air out into the hose and up the hose into the resovoir. Pump the pucks out onto the disk with the lever and then do it again at least a half dozen times for each side. This will give you the hard lever again.

[slipknot]

Congratulations. You will now do all of your own service work. Your machine, wallet and your self (think safety!!!) will be better off.

[RockMyWorld]

I just had my 10K maintenance done by a dealer and paid $200 for the brake flush! After all servicing was done, with taxes in - $630. YIKES. Never again. Definitely will be learning how to do all this stuff myself.

[racer7]

That's 2 hrs of time or more, materials being only $10 or so.

 

You sure that's all they did after looking at your printed bill? I'm thiking the bill is unclear and something else was also done for tht charge.

 

Given the simplicity of the 11 brake system, seems about 2-3X out of line....Worth a chat with the shop management for education- if there's nothing to back up the charge I'd be real careful about visiting these guys again...

 

If you want to do your own, do your first major service with an experienced buddy who can show you the ropes if at all possible- the shortcuts to getting the tupperare off fast, how to do a valve check and synch, etc etc- all the regular services on your bike are in fact extremely easy to do once you know how or are shown how. However, takes more time to learn on your own than from someone else..

 

You will need a GS-911 or a dealer computer to reset the service indicator. Good dealers will reset service lights for customers who do their own but may bill up to 30 min time- though some do it free for regulars..

[macx]

As soon as I got my 2011, I put barbacks on it that req'd a longer brake hose from the front mstr cyl.

 

Of course, that meant bleeding.

 

I've got a vac pump and was able to draw fluid thru till no air came with no problem, however still had just a little sponginess.

 

Then discovered there's a tiny bleed nipple right at the outlet of the mstr cyl. Cracked that with just a titch of pressure on the lever and a bubble of air came out, then solid fluid.

 

That did the trick. Topped the fluid off and it's just fine.

 

That was a masterful addition - I've got an 04 R1150R and it sure could use something like that, not to mention on the clutch mstr cyl!