Accessing the trans filler plug?

[macx]

I took a look the other weekend and started to de-tupperware that side but gave up because I didn't have all day :-/

 

Tried to do some searches but have found nothing specific about any good way to go about that. The parts fiche didn't show things clearly enuf to use as a guide, either.

 

One thought I've been toying with and, yes this is probly close to sacrilege, is to cut a round hole in the tupperware in line with the plug large enuf to get the plug out and in and a small funnel or turkey baster for filling.

 

It's down low, mostly behind one's leg or foot, and a ~1" dia hole shouldn't be all that noticeable.

 

I've been looking for a soft rubber snap in plug maybe 1" diameter similar to a car body floor pan plug but have so far only found grommets which have holes thru them. Even looked in McMaster Carr with no luck, plus a number of the normal car parts places.

 

I've put 41k on my bike in 2 years and intend to keep up that kind of mileage accumulation, so really hate to think of all that work to get that tupperware off and back on every time. (Changing and balancing my own tires every ~10k is bad enuf! Just put on the 5th set.)

 

Thanks for any tips.

 

If I do take the plunge and cut that hole, I'll do a brief write-up with pics, esp if I can find a black rubber plug for it.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Morning macx

 

The secret to doing service on the later BMW boxer 1200RT's is to combine services.

 

For instance do the final drive gear oil change at rear tire change time as the muffler is already turned out & the wheel removed.

 

Same with the trans gear oil service. Do that when you have the tupperware removed for other services such as air filter replacement or TB balance.

 

I guess I don't understand the "all day" on tupperware removal as that is a 10 minute job at most.

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Little mini cordless screwdriver the size of a compact pistol makes it very quick.

Just don't pay more than $25 for it. They're out there. Many come with a brace of bits too.

[terryofperry]

I do not know if the plastic removal is the same for the Hexheads but over at the MOA site there is a write up on it. I have it on pdf if you like.

 

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?35262-HEXHEAD-Tech-R1200RT-Plastic-Removal-2008-Model

 

Terry

[lkchris]

Pretty difficult to do any service without the service manual.

 

Of course if you have the instructions for installing valve cover protectors, the bodywork removal instructions are in that, too.

 

The right side is the easy side, as the temp sender connector comes apart lots easier than the power socket and maybe radio connectors do on the left.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

There's also a youtube vid, maybe from Max. Can't seem to find it though right now.

[macx]

When I first took a look it sure looked like quite a number of pieces had to come off - more than just the one piece that surrounds the cylinder.

 

I had to take off a bunch of that stuff when I changed headlite bulbs and adjusted the headlights cuz I couldn't get my old stiff hand in there. Really turned into a long, frustrating job for something that should have been quick and simple. The memory of that really turned me off for taking off a whole bunch of the stuff cuz it seems to be interconnected - in general it seems one piece won't come off without loosening and removing several others.

 

After some research I found out that the stuff has to come off to change or clean the air filter, too, and of course synch the TB's. So, combining tasks requiring the removal became obvious as I got more into it.

 

I did find some of the Max UTube vids, but didn't see one on that, yet anyway.

 

I took a quick look at the BMOA link and it looks like that'll get me there, thanks much!!

 

I've done lots of work on my 04 R1150R, even to swapping gears inside the trans, and in general have been wrenching on all kinds of mechanical stuff for 45+ years so that's more of an interesting exercise and a joy than a mystery or a scary venture into the unknown. I just never have had the patience for involved body work.

 

It happens Im due for a fairly extensive service - plugs, valve check, TB check (I have a TMax I've used on my 1150 a number of times - heck, I even used to synch the dual 4bbls on my 426 Hemi years ago, anyway - - )air filter - I'm in a dusty area, and the trans which is where I started out with all this.

 

I do the FD when I change tires - just put on my 5th set.

 

I do have the service CD from BBoneyard, mainly for checking the valves.

 

So at least on the first foray behind the tupperware, I'll set aside a nice weekend day.

 

Thanks for all the input and ideas and links!!

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

found it

 

[racer7]

The tupperware really is only 10-15 min if you know how and have the right tools. And unlike, for xample a GoldWing, BMW plastic fits well and goes back on easily- if it doesn't line up you've screwed up, plain and simple.

 

Suggest you get an electrci driver, a couple of differnece torx 25 tools and a torx 30 for the couple larger ones and rad the instructions on the MOA website.

 

Once you've done it, you'll see how easy it is.

 

Re the headlight change, it is also easy and only takes 5 min- can be done in the dark if you know how, but it is done by feel, not by sight. If one has problems with feeling or doesn't have a mental image of how the parts work, then it is a serious nuisance.

Learning from a friend who knows beats messing around to figure it out. No matter what, its a bunch easier than an LT..

[dirtrider]

Morning macx

 

When you do the air filter-- before removing the cover & snorkel look closely at how the R/H throttle cable is routed over the cover. It is very easy to end up with the cable not routed correctly & pulled tight therefore effecting the R/H TB balance.

 

[OlGeezer]

 

I guess I don't understand the "all day" on tupperware removal as that is a 10 minute job at most.

 

DR - I am by no means a pro wrench, probably just the opposite, but for the 27 times I did service on my RT, never was I able to remove the body panels in 10 minutes and, yes, I had an electric screwdriver. I would say it was at least 20 minutes (there ARE at least 16 fasteners on each side) and at least 30 minutes to get them back on (fit and alignment issues). This is the number 2 reason I got a GS with the number 1 reason is that I never warmed up to the new body design. 32 fasteners in 10 minutes is about 20 seconds per fastener. Maybe if I'm working flat rate, in a shop, on someone else's bike, maybe I could get close to 10 minutes OFF, but not 10 minutes ON.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon OlGeezer

 

Electric screwdrivers are slow. Personally I use an 18 volt variable speed drill with the slip-clutch set to just above screw break-free for removal (accept for the 4 screws up above the front fender).

 

I usually reinstall with a 1/4" drive small hand ratchet & 10" extension. Front 4 screws with a little homemade finger spinner on a short driver then final tighten with that 1/4" drive ratchet.

 

If the power socket wire plug doesn't fight me then under 10 minutes removal easily. On my personal RT I have an old style 15 amp power socket wired directly to the battery & those come apart real easy like.

 

Going back together probably a bit longer as I use that 1/4 drive ratchet & spin it with my offhand finger until snug then hand tighten.

 

[OlGeezer]

Afternoon OlGeezer

 

Electric screwdrivers are slow. Personally I use an 18 volt variable speed drill with the slip-clutch set to just above screw break-free for removal (accept for the 4 screws up above the front fender).

 

I usually reinstall with a 1/4" drive small hand ratchet & 10" extension. Front 4 screws with a little homemade finger spinner on a short driver then final tighten with that 1/4" drive ratchet.

 

If the power socket wire plug doesn't fight me then under 10 minutes removal easily. On my personal RT I have an old style 15 amp power socket wired directly to the battery & those come apart real easy like.

 

Going back together probably a bit longer as I use that 1/4 drive ratchet & spin it with my offhand finger until snug then hand tighten.

 

That's what I meant. I use it like a screwdriver.

 

I doubt if many on this forum could beat you in a race, even if your opponent had choice of "weapons".

[racer7]

I also like those e drills with slip clutches- way faster.

 

Except- every once in a while when doing tech checks for cages at track days, I'd run into some idiot who used one to try to tighten lug nuts or other wheel fastener.

The 25-30 lb/ft most generate at max doesn't cut it when you're trying to keep wheels on at a buck 50 or better......

[macx]

Well! All good suggestions worthy of consideration.

 

I just used my 1/4 drive with, in most places, a standard extension of maybe 3 or 4".

 

If I were doing this frequently, as in a shop environment, I'd most likely go for an electric assistant.

 

I did use one little trick I've used for years (literally, I started wrenching on hot rods 50 years ago)for the screws in difficult access places where I couldn't get one of my chubby fingertips on the screw to hold it on - all it takes is a little dab of grease and the screw sticks to the bit. Gun grease works but stickier wheel bearing grease is even better.

 

I just cracked them loose maybe 1/8 or 1/4 turn with the ratchet, then spun them out with my fingers on the socket or the extension, doing the reverse going in.

 

I agree with the observance that at least the BMW plastic fits well which makes it easier to reinstall. Took a bit of study to figure out how that upper / front piece goes on but once I got that figured out it went on easily.

 

I had hoped someone would come up with some way to hold the lower part of the plastic away just far enuf to access the bottom plug - the towel sounds as likely a possibility as anything I've thought of.

 

I believe someone said in another post something about the trans seeming to shift more smoothly after changing fluid - I do believe I noticed that, also.

 

Now to find that post about a longer lasting replacement for those expensive but short lived stock plugs and that's probly as good as the servicing effort will get.

 

But 10 minutes to remove or reinstall? I don't move that fast any more. 15 to 20 is probly what I'll settle in at now that I'm used to the procedure, and using a simple socket & ratchet.

 

Thanks for all the input!