Aftermarket Radio for R1150RT-P

[Jimozach]

Hi There.

 

I have a 2004 R1150RT-P into which I am installing an aftermarket marine radio. The simple question I have is how to power it...where best to connect the positive and negative leads. I would like to wire it so it only powers on when the key is in the full on position, so there's no risk of leaving the radio on when key is in the off position. Thanks.

[Boffin]

There is a connector strapped to the fairing supports on the LH side of the bike, near the glove box. There are three wires to it, the brown is ground, one wire is battery the other switched power - live whenever the bars are not locked, so you can have the engine off but the radio on.

Sorry I do not remember the wire colours and I am away from my bike until Thursday

 

Andy

[PAS]

I would think BMW uses the same colors for all the models. My 03 RT shows this

Brown for ground, Red/white 12V from battery, Violet/black 12V from ignition,

 

Then there are the 4 speaker wires

Hope that helps

[Jimozach]

Both,

 

Thanks for the reply. I think the difference is that this is an RT-P, so it never had a radio to begin with... the glove box housed the second battery. So where PAS says the connector would be, I have pos and neg battery leads. That said, I don't believe the radio connector ever was or is there, so I think I need to find an alternative. Thoughts appreciated! Jim

[Solo6]

The RTP is not a built-to-purpose copcycle, it's a modified RT. If you look, you're likely to find the original radio wiring under the Tupperware, cable-tied out of the way.

 

My POV RTP has a Yaesu FTM-10R ham radio. The radio itself is in the top box (powered from the aux battery through the RTP fuse block), and gives me AM / FM, Line In and Weather band in addition to the two ham bands. The control head is weatherproof and compact, which mounts pretty much wherever you want (mine is on the handlebars).

 

It's easy to get a ham license, there is a very simple 35-question technical exam (NO Morse code), 26 correct to pass. Anybody who can't pass that exam after a couple of nights of self-study probably shouldn't be wiring anything on an RTP!

[Jimozach]

Thanks, that makes sense. I will look again with a bright flashlight. The radio I am installing is a marine-grade AM/FM/CD/MP3 unit with wired remote(head). The only thing I know about HAM is that it makes a nice sandwich.

[Solo6]

You'll need to pull the Tupperware to find it.

 

You'd better check if that CD player works when mounted vertically. You might need to put it in the top box.

[Jimozach]

Good points, Tupperware is already off, will take a closer look. Radio can be mounted vertically.

 

I am still interested in anyone being able to tell me what alternatives I have to wiring the radio for power, in the event I cannot locate the stock power connector. Thanks!

[PAS]

Jimozach, I would like to know what the brand and model number is of the radio and remote. It's an idea I have been kicking around but haven't found one (CD player)that world work vertically.

[Outta Control]

You guys are great thanks for the info. I am actually in the process of installing a stereo on my RT. Going back to the wires to power the unit. I've attached a photo of what looks like the connector in questioned by Boffin, so which is which.

 

[dirtrider]

 

Afternoon Outta Control

 

What bike are you working on?

 

If other than a 2004 R1150RT-P then you need to start your own thread on your bike as otherwise you would be hijacking Jimozach's 2004 R1150RT-P radio thread.

 

[Outta Control]

Don't mean to hijack the thread but I am working on a 04 R1150RT.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Outta Control

 

That's probably close enough but with the OP having an RT-P you probably should still start your own thread on YOUR problem.

 

 

Multi bikes on the same wiring thread can really turn into a can of worms if there is ANY difference in the wires between the bikes. We might be talking about a 6 way black connector on one bike & that could be a 4 way green & 2 way white on a similar bike so, especially when it comes to wiring or circuit issues, the problem & bikes really should be kept separate.

 

The OP here has a RT-P (police) & those are noted for have strange wiring harnesses & oddball extra circuits.

 

I will give you a little info here but if you want more follow up from me you will have to start your own thread so we don't hijack the original thread's intent.

 

On your bike you (should have) both a black & blue radio connector (the black should be close to the blue).

 

So- first locate both the blue & black connector, then go into your fuse box & put a 4 or 10 amp fuse in the #8 fuse slot (if you don't have one there now.

 

Then use a 12v test light or voltmeter & probe the radio connectors for (key off) 12v power all the time (should be a red wire with a white stripe).

Next- turn the key on & probe the connectors for a violet or light purple wire with a black stripe (that should be the 12v ign circuit), just make sure it goes on & off with the key.

Next- locate the brown or dark tan wire & that should be the ground circuit.

 

If your bike didn't originally come with a radio prep kit I don't know how much you will find though.

 

[Outta Control]

Thanks Dirtrider.

[Jimozach]

Outta, I will look for that connector, thanks. PAS, here is the unit I am installing:

 

http://www.bossaudio.com/marine/marine-single-din-car-audio-stereo-in-dash-mp3-cd-cdr-cdrw-4-channel-280-watt-usb-aux-input-weather-band-mr1650ua/

 

To your point about the vertical install, you are right that the CD will probably not work correctly, it will skip. So, you say, why put it in? Reason is, that this unit has a hard-wire input cable that has a female USB connector on the end of it. Idea is that you plug in a flash drive with your music and it feeds the unit in exactly the same way as the CD would. I have moved away from CDs anyway...my music library is all mp3s, and my 200+ CDs collect dust upstairs. The beauty is that I will run the USB cable up so it sits right next to the remote head, and I can switch tunes easily....different drives with playlists...rock, country, alternative...whatever. That and also consider that a standard CD holds ~15-18 songs, an MP3 ~150, but a 2 gig flash drive ~400-500. Btw, the unit I bought, I had a very similar Boss unit installed on my hot tub. You could literally pour water on the head unit or remote and it would not matter. High quality, lots of features and the remove is great. Finally, 1/8 aux outlet on the front so you can plug in an Ipod. Give it some thought!

[Jimozach]

D.R. or any other kind soul for that matter. Took another look and cannot find any connectors where you'd expect to see them. Would appreciate any other suggestions on how to power it so that the unit is only on with the key in the "on" position. I am doing the install tomorrow if possible.

[dirtrider]

Evening Jimozach

 

Good question, with you having an RT-P I would imagine there are a bunch of unused 12V B+ & ign circuits that you could use (IF) you take the time & effort to find them.

 

That will take probing any & all unused wires you can find then see if they are hot all the time, controlled by the ign switch & if they are fused or not & what fuse they are on.

 

OR-- you can go down to your local auto parts store & buy a couple of fuse taps (many styles from a simple brass leaf to a more complex double fuse affair that replaces the original fuse.

 

See picture below for a simple fuse tap.

 

You can then tap the OUTPUT side of fuse #3 & fuse #8 (if you have that fuse 8 in your RT-P fuse box fuse). Then make a harness & run that to your radio.

 

I really don't have much more for you than the above as those RT-P's are a distinct beast when it comes to wiring. Every time I do any wiring on those things it is a new & unique experience.

 

 

[Jimozach]

Evening D.R...

 

I always appreciate your guidance, I learn something every time. This time, it's how to tap fuses. Much to my surprise, there is literally nothing I could find. You'd think there'd be no shortage of 12V connections, but trust we when I say I look for the better part of an hour.....nuttin. So, and by saying this I might get my hand slapped, but I tapped the front running light wires (the taillight & the small bulb at the very tip inside headlamp assembly). I had the epiphany that this was a logical place because lights are only on with the key in the on position. With the running lights, they are also on in the far counterclockwise key position, which I like. Lastly, the tap is only about a foot away from the radio.

 

Do you see any issues with this solution? I ran the radio for about two hours total and had no apparent issues. Jim

 

 

[Jimozach]

Outta,

 

BTW, I have that same connector. I volt-tested it with a number of combinations and got nuttin. As I said in my response to D.R., I tapped the running lights and it seems to work fine. Stereo sounds great and love the USB feature to play MP3s. PAS and Solo6 are correct, a CD will NOT play properly in the vertical position. It will skip and potentially damage the drive mechanism and the laser. I spoke to tech support at BOSS and they said don't do it, it's a waste of time and money. With my unit, I can use the USB thump drive that holds tons more music than even an MP3 CD. I also can plug in my 160gig IPod into the AUX jack. Jim

[Boffin]

BMW are really marginal with their wire gauges. I would use that tap to trigger a relay, taking the relay feed direct from the battery.

 

Heat build-up in the loom due to running the cable close to or slightly over its max capacity will cause gradual deterioration of the cable until it gets to a critical point. After that, the breakdown is rapid with high-thermal energy, potentially leading to the loom catching fire - maybe the bike.

 

Check the price of a new loom to help the decision process...

 

On my bike I have taken a Live and Ground connection forward from the battery using 30amp-rated wire. These go to bus-bars which then feed the front-mounted farkles, such as GPS, Driving lights, 12V cigar socket, temp gauge etc.

I have however, just removed the ABS and I am changing this layout to take advantage of the chasm left by the departed ABS/Servo unit.

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

Morning Jimozach

 

 

Actually I do see a possible problem with where you tapped the power.

 

The front running light is on fuse #2 & that also feeds the ABS brake system.

 

Same with tapping the taillight wire, on the 1150, that circuit is powered from the ABS controller (it is also monitored for tail light current draw). I don't know how much current your radio draws but you sure don't want to overload the tail light driver in your ABS controller.

 

If you want to use the front running light do as Andy said & use a small power relay triggered off the running light wire. BUT, that means you will still need to get 12v B+ to that relay from somewhere.

 

Did you see if you have a #8 fuse in your fuse box? If not put a fuse in there THEN test for power at that blue connector.

 

If you decide to change to a different power source you can run a wire harness under the fuel tank without removing the tank. Just make your wire harness & cover it with small convoluted harness covering (available from most auto parts stores or from E-Bay), then push a stiff wire along the R/H side of the fuel tank, then tape your harness to that stiff wire & pull it through.

 

[Solo6]

 

Have you removed the wiring that connects to the aux battery? Especially the charge wire, which is hot with the engine running?

 

That big, fat hot lead feeds the RTP fuse block under the seat. If you connect it to the + terminal on the battery, you will have power to the original radio connector, through Fuse #7 (IIRC) in the RTP block.

 

The block has several switched and non-switched fuse leads, so you should be able to find one that works for you.

[azccj]

Is installing a radio on a RT really worth the hassle? Many who have the factory radio remove it because you really can't hear it when you're traveling at highway speeds. Another consideration is will you be riding the bike around town or is it going to be a long distance tourer? If it's for touring, then you will find that every 50 miles or so you'll loose the reception of the station you're listening to and will need to scan and find something else. When I had my K1200lt and my Goldwing I found the continual scanning thing very tedious and both those bikes had the radio and its controls integrated into the bike. I found that the best solution if you want music is a Garmin Zumo 550 with headphones and mini amp. Not only is it a GPS unit but it will play mp3s, audiobooks, and is XM satellite radio ready if you have the GXM 30 antenna. You can listen to about 200 different channels of stuff and it makes no difference if you're on the west coast, east coast or anywhere in between, the reception is the same. Also it's all controlled through the Zumo's display screen which makes for a nice clean install.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Jimozach]

All,

 

Great feedback from all of you, TYVM.

 

Of all the options I see, Solo6, your options makes the most sense to me, primarily because I am a relative newb when it comes to these things, and DR and Andy are, well, technicians of the highest order. To your point, the aux battery wire is indeed there next to the glove box, strapped the frame. I understand your instructions, but what I am not clear on is how I go about finding a switched lead once I connect the big fat red one to the pos terminal. Can you advise me on what to do next?

 

D.R., I am also going to check that blue connector again as well.

 

Azccj, I have put in a 90W four channel Boss marine stereo that eventually will get a boost from an DUAL amplifier that will go in the rear radio box. I have also replaced the stock speakers with 180W two-ways. Eventually, I'll put the other two speakers in...somewhere. I don't disagree with you at all on the stock radio, and agree as well on the FM reception. On the latter, you have the same reception problem in a car on a long drive. Thing is, the unit I bought has an aux input that I have run up from the radio to the dash. I have done the same with the USB connection. My IPod has ~11K songs on it, and 2gig thumb drive will hold ~450 songs. Finally, the unit has a wired remote with a small LCD screen that shows station info and track info, as well as volume, track skip and mute. FM will probably be reserved for my 25 mile daily commute, listening to local NPR. I've tried the earbud/headphone route. As much as the audiophile in me loves the sound that that arrangement can offer, I have never liked the "isolation" from the outside world that the earbuds creates...even at the lowest sound level, your ears are still plugged up.

 

Thanks again all.

[PAS]

Jimozach, What are the rough dimensions of the remote and where did you mount it?

[Jimozach]

Hey PAS,

 

It is about 3.5 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick. Right now, I have it temporarily mounted with a extra-strength velcro pad to the left-hand flat "peak" of the dash panel that sits right behind the windshield bracket. This is only temporary. An accessory shelf is a must for this bike, so I will soon add either of the following:

 

http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/product_info.php/rcu-r1150rt-accessory-shelf-bmw-r1150rtr1100rt-rcu00005-p-90

 

http://www.bmrproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=010_CPR1150RT&cat=6

 

On that shelf I would put the remote on a ram mount, then will also have a second mount for my Ipod and a third for my Galaxy SIII which is also a great GPS. Also on that shelf will be the two-outlet cigarette accessory outlet I ran from the powerlet. Finally, what will also lay there (and this is important if you are considering this radio) is the USB input cable that feeds from the unit and acts as input as I mentioned earlier AND the aux input that also runs from the unit into which I can plug my IPod...if not using the flash drive.

 

How's that for TMI?? One final point that's a real plus with this radio is that the face (head) is detachable. So even though it is weather-proof, no reason to leave it in there in very hot, cold or rainy weather.

 

One final-final point...you will need an amp for speeds above 55mph, and there isn't a radio that I know of that does much above 80W..it's a simple space issue. My unit is 70W x 4 channels, and I think you probably need a solid 120W per channel. In the RT-P, I have a place for it...the radio box. Not sure what you would do in an RT...side case but the wiring would be cumbersome. I have one in mind if you decide to go that route.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

[Solo6]

Since you're not going to be swapping CDs while riding, you might want to mount the radio in the top box and use the glove box for stuff you want handy . . .like, say, GLOVES . . .

 

Depending on configuration, you could even mount it under the floor of the top box, with a slot cut in the plastic to allow you to feed CDs. Also, if you have a former CHP motor, it may still have the bracket on the right side where the repeater was mounted, which would also be a good location for a weatherproof radio chassis.

 

If you PM me your email address, I'll email you a couple of files with wiring info, RTP supplement, etc.

[Jimozach]

All,

 

I thought I would provide everyone an update, especially those who have an R1150RT/RT-P who would like to add a stereo to their ride. I listened to alot of feedback on the pluses and minuses of a radio vs. ipod and earbuds, bluetooth, speakers in the helmet, etc. etc. I personally did not like the experience of sound being fed directly to my ears via earbuds or helmet speakers (I find they prevent me from being as aware as I should be of external sounds around me), so I did go the radio route and I am very, very happy with the result.

 

I have a 2004 R1150RT-P

 

Radio: Boss Marine MR1630UA w/wired remote

Speakers #1: Pyle PL42BL 4-Inch speakers (replaced stock speakers)

Speakers #2: Pyle PLMCS32 (external, dash-mounted

 

It was the second set of speakers that made all the difference. I can hear the sound VERY well at 75mph, particulary the radio and the MP3s that I access via the built-in USB cable. It does have an Aux input for an IPod or similar, but I find that the sound level is too low at higher speeds. Do note that you CANNOT use the CD because the unit is vertically mounted. However, when I plug in an 8 gig thumb drive to the USB port, I have hundreds of songs....a thousand if I wanted. The remote is great and gives me dash access to volume, tuning, mute, tracks, mode and play/pause....really no need at all to access the radio itself. This allows you to easily do what you need to, especially to lower volume, mute or pause at stops. The face of the radio is also detachable.

 

I had thought originally about adding an amp, which I eventually decided against because it would have had to go in the radio box (alot of wires to run back and forth), plus I probably would have had to vent it somehow to dissipate heat. It was the second set up speakers that killed the amp idea, because they give the extra boost needed.

 

Most of my riding is in the 45mph-65mph and the sound is great, and as I said, very "hearable" at 75mph for those times when it's needed.

 

At 65mph, cruising down the country highway nearby, I am in my element when Queen's "We Will Rock You" or Bob Jovi's "You Give Love a Bad Name" comes on, LOL! What an experience compared to no music!

 

One final note that will most definitely affect hearability...I wear a half-helmet except in temps below 50F. I expect that I might not hear it so well at 70mph wearing a full-face helmet.

 

I have some pics that are too big to post, will email them to anyone who might be interested in seeing the install. Jim

 

 

[dmottv]

Jim, I'm definitely interested in your installation and pics for my '01 RT-P. I sent you a PM with email address. Thanks very much.

 

[Mark James]

I just got my bike last Sunday. Rode it 150 miles. Great bike. So I am just beginning the journey. It is a 2004 R1150RTP with 67 k miles. Overall it is in good to very good condition I am interested in seeing your pictures and getting your advise. Have started the teardown and the snooping around for sounds I don't care for.

Thinking about blacking out all of the white, but not sure what to do with the radio box on the back. The wife is not interested in riding long distances so no need to make it a two seater.

[Jimozach]

Hi Mark,

 

Welcome to the site and best of luck with your new ride! I have had my 2004 RT-P for ~18mos and have put ~8K miles on it since. I could not be happier with it, and I'l still hard pressed to imagine a bike that could beat its speed, handling and comfort.

 

Send me PM (click on your user name and select from dropdown) with your email address and I will send you pics and some info.

 

Jim