outpost22 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Getting ready to do the dreaded fuel line "inside the tank" swap. I think I've pushed it long enough and should have done it when I changed the filter a couple of years ago. I understand that the stock BMW fuel filter may be swapped for a Napa 3032. I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts and was able to get their equivalent house brand filter that is rated to 60 psi. Does anyone know what the stock BMW filter is rated for or how much the replacement needs to be rated for? Hope I can remember all of the idiosyncrasies of the project as its been a while. Link to comment
roger 04 rt Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Getting ready to do the dreaded fuel line "inside the tank" swap. I think I've pushed it long enough and should have done it when I changed the filter a couple of years ago. I understand that the stock BMW fuel filter may be swapped for a Napa 3032. I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts and was able to get their equivalent house brand filter that is rated to 60 psi. Does anyone know what the stock BMW filter is rated for or how much the replacement needs to be rated for? Hope I can remember all of the idiosyncrasies of the project as its been a while. I have seen more that 60 psi on my fuel pressure gauge when, for instance, I forgot to reconnect the return QD. Link to comment
philbytx Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 An R1150RT FI system pressure is set at 3.0 bar +/- .2 bar which is around 42/43 PSI. The fuel pump is rated at 3.5bar. Napa 3032 is made by WIX and here are the specs. Brand:Wix Filters Manufacturer's Part Number:495-33032 (WIX 33032) Fuel Filter Style:Inline Inlet Quantity:One Inlet Size:5/16 in. Inlet Attachment:Hose barb Outlet Quantity:One Outlet Size:5/16 in. Outlet Attachment:Hose barb Filter Element Included:Yes Smallest Particle Filtered:20 microns Filter Housing Finish:Natural Overall Length (in):3.862 in. Outside Diameter (in):1.936 in. Maximum Fuel Pressure (psi):60 Wix Complete In-Line Fuel Filters are designed to protect fuel system components from contaminants in the fuel. They have a built-in gasket which prevents leakage of the fuel under compression loads. These filters withstand minimum internal differential pressure of 75psi. So, no problems with the filter ! Link to comment
rdwalker Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 ... Hope I can remember all of the idiosyncrasies of the project as its been a while. As for the gotcha's: you'll need the tank almost empty or it will piss fuel all over as you open the flange. Make sure you work over surface that can absorb gas as you struggle with the tank; gravel, dirt - in my case, snow. Once opened, wiggle the flange slowly to get the assembly partly out of the tank. I use a small screwdriver to loosen the Oetiker clamps. Note which way the filter faces. You need to install the replacement with flow in proper direction. I always have proper fuel-line screw clamps prepared, but I found that I can reuse and close the Oetiker clamps with side cutters. Be patient wiggling the flange back in place. Watch the position of the thick O-ring that seals it against the tank: it must fit into the grove. A replacement is recommended. Finally: I lubricate the quick-disconnects with Vaseline. This allows them to slide in place without much fighting; less chances of cracking the parts. Good luck! Link to comment
eddd Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 If you haven't already done so, it is a good idea to mark the mounting plate and the tank so that it is easy to align them on re-assembly. Link to comment
tallman Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 rdwalker, Letting the surface (ground) absorb gasoline is a big no no IMO. We live over an aquifer and just a small bit of gasoline creates a lot of pollution. Plenty of ways to collect oil/gas etc w/out adding contaminants to the environmet and then dispose of them properly. Link to comment
outpost22 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Thanks guys for the input! I haven't started the project yet and will probably do so Sunday. I'm sure a lot of it will come back to me once I get started and I also have the maintenance manual, new O-Rings, clamps,and hoses. After the last time I did this, I also purchased fuel line pinchers to make it less messy when removing the tank from the bike as the "plugs" I used leaked a little. There are no QD's on this older model. Tim: I usually try to recover all fluids, though some do spill when working on my rigs when they escape the sides of my catch pans. I have a gravel area for this purpose. Our water table is at about 250' down, but I understand how in Florida with a 2' water table it can be a major issue. We have a major recycling program here and they come to the house every other week to pick up used motor oils, etc. Very convenient! Link to comment
rdwalker Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 rdwalker, Letting the surface (ground) absorb gasoline is a big no no IMO. We live over an aquifer and just a small bit of gasoline creates a lot of pollution. Plenty of ways to collect oil/gas etc w/out adding contaminants to the environmet and then dispose of them properly. Well, I do agree with you wholeheartedly. I did not mean to suggest that one should pour the contents of the tank onto the ground; that's a no-no for me as well. What I wanted to convey is that no matter how careful you are, there is a good chance of spilling of some of the leftovers sloshing in the tank. There is no good way of getting the tank fully empty beforehand and some fuel will remain. The pump flange is on the bottom of the tank, while the filler and vent is on top - so that the tank cannot be worked on upside-down, either. I used a portable tank with a funnel to capture the gas: first I poured it out of the filler opening, then loosened the flange and poured the rest through the bottom. Some leftovers remained, especially behind the baffles. These small splashes of leftovers are what I wrote about: you do not want to get them on yourself or on the garage floor. I have to say that the RT tank is most difficult to work on. On my K12LT, the pump flange was on the side and the tank did not need to be completely empty. On the R12GS, the flange is on top: better yet. Link to comment
tallman Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 This multi use transfer pump works well. $8 at Harbor Freight. It is a pain to move gasoline. Best wishes. Link to comment
outpost22 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 This multi use transfer pump works well. $8 at Harbor Freight. It is a pain to move gasoline. Best wishes. Here is what I use and also sell in my online store. I keep one in every vehicle: CLICK Link to comment
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