front forks

[faster pastor]

New owner questions..

I have a manual but can't find answers there.

1: Does an 99 R1100RT have nylon bushings on the fork tube inside the slider?

2: What is the best way to change oil in the forks?

Thanks

 

Faster Pastor

[Selden]

You will get multiple, possibly contradictory responses to these questions.

 

As far as I know there are no nylon bits inside the front suspension.

 

1. The most thorough, but labor-intensive way is to remove the front wheel, disassemble the front suspension, and pull the sliders. This lets you turn them upside down, flush with a solvent such as kerosene, and clean the inside.

 

2. Less work, remove the front wheel, and remove the drain bolt at the bottom of each slider (accessible with the axle shaft removed). In my experience, this still left a fair amount of sludge behind.

 

3. Doing one leg at a time, remove the cap from the top, pivot the top clamp out of the way, and remove the fork tube cap (you will need a 22mm spanner to prevent the fork tube from turning). Stick a yard stick down the tube to get a baseline measurement of the distance between the surface of the oil and the top of the fork tube. According to the shop manual, each leg takes 0.470L (approximately 16 ounces), but having an equal oil level both legs is probably more important than trying to measure the volume down to three (or even two) decimal places). Attach a ~1m long piece of vinyl tubing to the end of a turkey baster, and suck out the old oil. I used method #2 the first time, and I was quite surprised at how much gunk I was able to suction out a few months later. This approach can be done without removing any body work from an RT.

 

The next question is what oil to use to refill the fork tubes. It doesn't much matter, as the oil is mainly for lubrication, not damping as in a traditional telescopic suspension. Ten weight fork oil is fine. I usually add about 20% transmission seal to the mix to prevent seal leaks. The left seal on my 99 RT had a fairly significant leak at 65,000 miles, and 40,000 miles later, it still hasn't leaked a bit.

 

Whatever method you choose, note that there is a small air bleed screw (1) at the top of each fork tube; this must be loosened, then tightened with the suspension in a no-load position during final assembly.

 

[faster pastor]

I have the bike stripped down. So I can do either. If you use step 2..how do you put fresh oil back in? In taking the tubes apart do you need to remove dust cap, retaining clip, seal and washer or will they just slide apart?

Really appreciate the input..I can blunder through..but willng to learn from those who have bravely gone before..Winter is still heavy up here..might as well keep cleaning and servicing..

Faster Pastor

[faster pastor]

Well boys I dove in pulled wheel and forks. The reason I was looking at the front end was a slight misalignment in the front forks. Here's what I found.

There is one steel bushing inside the fork right at the top that has teflon coating..it is fresh looking. The inside of the fork is lined with plastic coating. So I will change fluid in both forks. I found a bent front axle. I will fix the issue and have nice ride as soon as the snow melts...wwhhhoooooa ya

Faster Pastor

[Tom R.]

I found this Fork Seal Replacement helpful when I replaced mine a couple of years ago.

[faster pastor]

Project done.. went well...I was wrong about the "lining inside the fork" ... it is a series of teflon bushings..same as 1150 RT..everything was clean and in nice shape..straightened the axle..slid together perfect..axle was so bent it was hard to get out...good to go

Faster Pastor

[kmac]

I would seriously consider looking at a new, or good used axle on my own bike over a straightened one. Not that it can not be straightened, and not that I know the numbers for the fatigue and other issues that could arise, but just for peace of mind and safe keeping.

I would hate to read about a funeral here. Well any funeral sucks, but a fellow rider and inmate is worse.

[faster pastor]

I really do appreciate the concern. I put the axle on an industrial straight edge. Very slight bend,nothing sharp. They are made out of soft metal,not strong and brittle.Ten taps with another piece of pipe over top so hammer doesn't strike axle..Finally got it true.These axles will not fracture but they will bend. Do not put a ding or crease in axle...Were good..thanks for caring..

Faster Pastor... I do to many funerals as a Pastor..don't want to attend my own