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Final Drive Lubricant R1200RT Info.


FIRST_BEEMER

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FIRST_BEEMER

I have 20K on my R1200RT. I`m looking for info on the proper lube to be used in the rear drive. The BMW Manual calls out Casrol SAF-XO

What would be equal to or better than this. Also what SAE would this be. Thanks.

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FIRST_BEEMER

Yes that`s the claim of BMW. ooo.gif But it`s a ring and pinion unit like anything else. I will not abuse my equipment because someone thinks it`s a lifetime lube. dopeslap.gif

I have heard this claim on car transmissions too. eek.gif Yeah Right. dopeslap.gif Not my Bike. thumbsup.gif Thanks.

I called a dealer and they said it`s just good old 75-140 synth. gear lube. Hows that for lifetime info. dopeslap.gif

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I have 20K on my R1200RT. I`m looking for info on the proper lube to be used in the rear drive. The BMW Manual calls out Casrol SAF-XO

What would be equal to or better than this. Also what SAE would this be. Thanks.

 

The correct viscosity (75W-90 ...but 80W-90 will also be fine), of any name-brand API GL-5 gear lubricant. That is what SAF-XO is. There is no magic brand that is needed; it's just that BMW is a "Castrol Partner" so they plug Castrol products.

 

Bob.

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FIRST_BEEMER

Thanks for the info.

The dealer is telling me 75-140 synth.

I would think 75-90 would be the proper SAE. Thanks again. thumbsup.gif

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I just took a quick look at my final drive. I see one plug halfway up in the rear. I do not see a drain plug on the bottom. It looks like you'll have to suck the oil out or stand the bike on end to drain it. Personally, if BMW says not to worry about it I won't.

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Thanks for the info.

The dealer is telling me 75-140 synth.

I would think 75-90 would be the proper SAE. Thanks again. thumbsup.gif

 

Castrol states that their SAF-XO lubricant is a "full synthetic" 75W-90 API GL-5 gear lube, and this is exactly what BMW recommends. It seems strange to me that your dealer has ignored BMW and claims you need 75W140!! Who knows more about BMW requirements, your dealer, or the Factory, I wonder!

 

As for the Synthetic versus Dino versions of GL-5, the main difference in the rear angle drive is only that synth will probably last longer. But BOTH pass the GL-5 requirements, so either complies with the requirements.

 

 

As for the "140" part of the "75W-140" rating, it is basically of no benefit at all compared to 75W90. The "140" part means that the oil will not thin out any more than a "straight" 140 weight oil would AT THE HIGHEST RATED OPERATING TEMPERATURE. But the oil in the rear drive NEVER gets very hot! So 75W140 oil would be "wasted" in this application. The benefit of a wide range multigrade is that it can handle very wide operating temperature swings, but the rear drive does not experience wide temperature swings!

 

Bob.

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I just took a quick look at my final drive. I see one plug halfway up in the rear. I do not see a drain plug on the bottom. It looks like you'll have to suck the oil out or stand the bike on end to drain it. Personally, if BMW says not to worry about it I won't.

 

That plug part way up is the drain plug. You have to release the paralever link and let the drive pivot down so the fluid runs out of the hole. Then reassemble and refill through the hole that the ABS sensor mounts in with .23l of fluid. I changed mine at 6k. I don't believe in lifetime fluids. I figure when they say lifetime they mean until the unit fails then the lifetime has expired of the fluid and also the unit. Don't believe everything thing BMW tells you. They used to say R1150RT's didn't surge thumbsup.gif

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I just took a quick look at my final drive. I see one plug halfway up in the rear. I do not see a drain plug on the bottom. It looks like you'll have to suck the oil out or stand the bike on end to drain it. Personally, if BMW says not to worry about it I won't.

 

That plug part way up is the drain plug. You have to release the paralever link and let the drive pivot down so the fluid runs out of the hole. Then reassemble and refill through the hole that the ABS sensor mounts in with .23l of fluid. I changed mine at 6k. I don't believe in lifetime fluids. I figure when they say lifetime they mean until the unit fails then the lifetime has expired of the fluid and also the unit. Don't believe everything thing BMW tells you. They used to say R1150RT's didn't surge thumbsup.gif

 

Amen to that, David. Show me an oil lubricated mechanism, and I'll show you particles in suspension. The most common rear drive failures are bearing related, either through improper shimming on assembly, or oil contamination (particulates). I'm changing mine at 6000, even if it is a PITA.

Every time I change engine oil in any of my vehicles, I can feel the difference, and it is not my imagination.

Paul in CA

'05 R1200RT

'98 XR400R

Other vintage

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I just took a quick look at my final drive. I see one plug halfway up in the rear. I do not see a drain plug on the bottom. It looks like you'll have to suck the oil out or stand the bike on end to drain it. Personally, if BMW says not to worry about it I won't.

 

That plug part way up is the drain plug. You have to release the paralever link and let the drive pivot down so the fluid runs out of the hole. Then reassemble and refill through the hole that the ABS sensor mounts in with .23l of fluid. I changed mine at 6k. I don't believe in lifetime fluids. I figure when they say lifetime they mean until the unit fails then the lifetime has expired of the fluid and also the unit. Don't believe everything thing BMW tells you. They used to say R1150RT's didn't surge thumbsup.gif

 

Amen to that, David. Show me an oil lubricated mechanism, and I'll show you particles in suspension. The most common rear drive failures are bearing related, either through improper shimming on assembly, or oil contamination (particulates). I'm changing mine at 6000, even if it is a PITA.

Every time I change engine oil in any of my vehicles, I can feel the difference, and it is not my imagination.

Paul in CA

'05 R1200RT

'98 XR400R

Other vintage

 

One think I like about the new drive unit is that the bearings appear to be sealed. I know that means they have a lifetime lubricant frown.gif but it also means they won't be contaminated by the metal coming off of the gears during normal wear / break in. I think the early lube change on anything with gears wearing together is the most important one. I like to change all my vehicles drive units and transmisions after a few thousand miles then I'll go to longer intervals.

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