Tire Size?

[SKYGZR]

Ok, the GT currently has the "optional" size rear- 180/55-17. The "standard" size is listed as a 170/60-17. The machine seems to be "slow and sluggish" as far as "flickability/transistion" changes w/ the 180.

 

Would changing to the 170 help with getting this machine to respond a bit quicker?

 

The previous owner(s) usually rode 2-up, and I will usually ride solo.

 

It would seem that the "narrower/taller" profile would be the better selection for quicker handling...all ears...

[biggy]

SKYGZR,

 

Your '03 GT came with the wider wheel and tire size when sold new, so the wider tire is standard for that bike. I would not recommend using smaller tire since the rim has 5.5 inch width. If the handling feels sluggish, try looking at the suspension especislly the front shock.

Also, you stated the previous owner rode two-up a lot, maybe the rear shock has too much preload set in. Try turning the knob on the left side of the bike counter clockwise to remove some.

Good luck! I miss my '03 GT

[SKYGZR]

The riders manual indicates that either size can be used on the 5.5 rim, and that the 170 is the "standard", the 180 is the "optional" size. The main reason for considering the narrower profile is that the RS uses a 160/60 on an 18" rim, and seems that machine is a bit "quicker" in it's temperment. The GT's wheel base is aprx 66mm longer than the RS, and this may contribute a bit to the slower feel.

 

I have already backed off the rear preload.

[NCStephen]

A few things that will help with the quickness feeling.

 

1) Make sure your shock/preload is set right. Get the Bike without Rider SAG right so that it is about 3/4 inch. Go ahead and do it for how the bike is set up day to day with bags and contents if applicable. Then check and see if with rider and gear it is about 1.5 inches. I was surprised when I did this as the preload was far more towards firm than I would have expected. If you have had yours low as well then you have slightly altered the geometry of the bike towards slowness. (I think I had my factory shock set at about 8/10 towards firm. The dampening was then about 7/10 towards firm) The other reason for this will be that then puts the operating range of the suspension more towards the middle of its stroke and spring range.

 

2) Tires really do matter in the feel you get. Different brands and models really do affect how the bike then feels. I cannot comment on the newer Z8 and PR3s. I found the Z6s the slower of the tires I had. The PR2s felt nice but wanted to fall into a turn a little more once past mid lean. Roadmasters were a bit more linear in that feel, quicker than than Z6s but without the slower speed fall in of the PR2s. The tires that really transformed the bike to a much quicker feel were Q2s. I love them and while trading mileage on sporty Touring tires (9,000-10,000) for Sporty tires that tour well (5,000 -6,000), still find them a joy to ride. (I guess about 8 sets now)

 

3) Remember also that the RS/GT really needs to be set up with your body some before the turn. You lead with your pre turn setup, it follows as in dancing. If you just try to push it around, it does feel big and sluggish. Dancing with it, it takes on a different personality because it does know the dance and does it pretty darn well.

 

Then again, as you probably realize, It is about 3 inches longer and 120+ pounds heavier than the R-RS. How does it compare to the R-RS two up to the K GT one up?

 

Hope this helps with your concerns

 

 

03, K-RS 5.5 rim, 180/55 tire

 

NCS

[tallman]

A K RS/GT of that vintage can be ridden fast.

 

But in technical riding it will always seem to move slower than an R RS(L).

 

Weight/wheelbase/geometry etc.

 

To make it "faster" in technical riding one needs to work quite a bit more than on an RS(L).

 

I have 100,000 plus on those 2 bikes and the GT does many things much better than the boxer, but the boxer excels in technical rides, for me, YMMV>

 

BTW, when the K1200 first came out, back in the day, when the speed limits were still 55 on the roads in Deals Gap, I know a rider who ran the course multiple times (with some road surveilance) at 10 minutes and change on a K1200 RS.

That is still the fastest time end to end I know of wrt BMW bikes so maybe it depends on the rider.

 

For me, the boxer was quicker in the mountains, maybe just me?

 

For everything else, the GT suits our needs better.

Best wishes.

[Dennis Andress]

Ok, the GT currently has the "optional" size rear- 180/55-17. The "standard" size is listed as a 170/60-17. The machine seems to be "slow and sluggish" as far as "flickability/transistion" changes w/ the 180.

 

Would changing to the 170 help with getting this machine to respond a bit quicker?

 

The previous owner(s) usually rode 2-up, and I will usually ride solo.

 

It would seem that the "narrower/taller" profile would be the better selection for quicker handling...all ears...

 

Avon Storms always felt like they gave the K-RS power steering...

 

Interestingly, one of the differences between a K1200 S and a K1300 S is that the rear tire size went from 190/50 to 190/55. This slight increase in tire height is supposed to make the bike quicker in turns. The Pirate sells an adjustable final drive stay that can accomplish the same thing.

[NCStephen]

Just remembered some information about current wider tire profiles. They are such that there is actually a bit more rubber on the surface when approaching maximum lean than when vertical. I am not sure that would be the same in narrower profile tires.

 

NCS