SKYGZR Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Ok, I've checked the M/C FAQ here, and the power unit on the GT differs from the one on the RS. It does have the (2) longer bleed screws, yet the others are not positioned as in that tutorial. Also, it seems that the "fill" resivoirs are located both in a seperate unit away from and, NOT in the power unit itself. All of the shorter bleed screws are in almost inacessable and seem impossible to get to. The Clymer doesn't have any details or procedure on bleeding this system. Anyone have a clue, or perhaps the BMW shop manual for details? Link to comment
Dennis Andress Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 It sounds like by GT you perhaps mean a 2006 or later K1200 GT?. Do these instructions help? Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Instructions answered everything, and in my sig you will see it's an '03 Brick GT (RS w/"farkels") Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 I'm working on Spiegler lines farkel. So since the I-ABS is really (2) independent system(s), am trying to determine the most efficient way to go about this procedure. My thoughts: So, before removing the stock lines, bleed the power unit/pump system, this should take care of that system. Then, draw off most of the fluid in the handle bar resivoir, crack the bleed screws at the front calipers, and using the brake lever, push out the fluid in the lines. (Can this be done without having the battery "power assist"?) Then remove the front lines. For the rear, basically the same procedure. Draw out the fluid in the rear master cylinder (the one that is a "two" part unit, connected to the pump/power unit), then depressing the pedal, force the fluid out, and remove the two lines? Once again, can this be done without battery power? Seems like it would work without the battery power, as even if there is a fault in the ABS system, one still has residual braking, yet requiring more lever pressure. Once the new lines are installed, then bleed the system using the battery powered procedure. All ears... Link to comment
ArizonaAl Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Change out all the lines and then go through the bleed procedure. FYI, the fluid in the master cyl for the front brakes is for the control circuit-- not the wheel circuit. Al Link to comment
Boffin Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 I'm working on Spiegler lines farkel. So since the I-ABS is really (2) independent system(s), am trying to determine the most efficient way to go about this procedure. My thoughts: So, before removing the stock lines, bleed the power unit/pump system, this should take care of that system. Then, draw off most of the fluid in the handle bar resivoir, crack the bleed screws at the front calipers, and using the brake lever, push out the fluid in the lines. (Can this be done without having the battery "power assist"?) Then remove the front lines. For the rear, basically the same procedure. Draw out the fluid in the rear master cylinder (the one that is a "two" part unit, connected to the pump/power unit), then depressing the pedal, force the fluid out, and remove the two lines? Once again, can this be done without battery power? Seems like it would work without the battery power, as even if there is a fault in the ABS system, one still has residual braking, yet requiring more lever pressure. Once the new lines are installed, then bleed the system using the battery powered procedure. All ears... I-ABS is four seperate systems. 1. Front brake master cylinder to ABS controller. 2. rear brake master cylinder to ABS controller. 3. ABS controller to front brake caliper. 4. ABS controller to rear brake caliper. Andy Link to comment
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