clutch slip is this close to a record

[bigboy]

hi guy,s

just had a 160 mile ride out in minus 8 always go on 27th dec last ride of the year. Got to say as ever the bike never missed a beat until i noticed whilst dropping down to 4th to overtake the clutch started slipping . I suspect that when i strip it out i will find a seal to be the main culprate as it does not spin/slip when cold. Anyway back to the post the rt has covered 117k miles never had a clutch replaced i have the full dealer history and have contacted the origional owner he Never had any work done to the clutch.

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS CLOSE TO THE RECORD EVEN IF IT AINT

IT, PRETTY GOOD GOING what do you guy,s think.

 

P.S HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EACH AND EVERY MEMBER.

AND LET,S ALL HAVE A GOOD UPRIGHT NEW YEAR

SEASONS GREETING,S

DEREK

[Stan Walker]

I gather from your profile it's an 1100, but what year?

 

They changed the clutch design due to short life on the early 1100's.

 

Stan

[bigboy]

HI STAN

97 R1100RT MET BLUE.

DO I TAKE IT THAT CLUTCHES WERE A PROBLEM AROUND THIS YEAR?.

[Stan Walker]

97 R1100RT MET BLUE.

DO I TAKE IT THAT CLUTCHES WERE A PROBLEM AROUND THIS YEAR?.

 

Ouch, you type very loud and my eyeballs hurt.......

 

BMW changed the design starting with bikes produced from Dec '97. So you probably have the older clutch disc / pressure plate. Check your production date.

 

Based on my own experience with a '96 R1100RT, 100,000 miles is pretty good and it wouldn't surprise me if you have totally worn it out. If you do have to replace it you will also need a new pressure plate as that also changed (assuming that you have the older setup). You can purchase a clutch kit with all the parts (except the one time use bolts).

 

By pulling the starter you can get a pretty good look-see into the area to check for oil leaks.

 

Good luck

 

Stan

[bigboy]

hi stan

sorry about the eyes hope this text is softer.

 

Thanks for the input may i ask if this job is a day job or would it lead into 2 days.I am comfortable with any aspect of work on the bike in your opinion what other work should be carried out when the trans is removed from the bike .

Dont suppose you know a shortcut to removing trans is it possible to lift the rear frame away from the trans or has it 100% got to be removed from the bike to gain access.

 

Stan i have followed quite a few of your threads and enjoy the way you set them out i think you are very competent in your mechanical manor. Are you able to tell me what other parts will be needed when i replace the full clutch i.e seals and gaskets etc.

 

stay upright

derek

[Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs]

I replaced my clutch recently and it certainly could be a one day job. Do a search here for "Ted's spline lube dvd" and buy it. Don't know if it can play on your machines across the big pond, but maybe you can play it on your computer? I'd suggest that even if you had to rent a USA-spec player, it's be worth it. Ted has provided a clear step-by-step to lubing the splines. By the time you get to the splines, the clutch is literally a 10 minute job. It's the many hours to get to that point though. At one point I had posted all of the tools you'd need to complete the job and If I find that I'll post it here.

 

Regarding the rear subframe, do NOT remove it. All reports indicate that it'll be a major pain in the arse to fit it again. Instead, you'll want to remove the 4 bolts. Bolts 5&6 is really a through-bolt, which should just get loosened and act as a pivot to hinge the subframe out of the way of the transmission housing. I attached a rachet strap to the frame inside the tail section and to the gas tank front-mounts and slowly tightened it.

 

Also search here by "spline lube". As long as you are going to break your RT down that far, I'd suggest checking/lubing the splines that are on both ends of the drive shaft. Look at the crown bearings of the final drive pivots. Have you ever had problems with the neutral light? The switch is at the back of the transmission housing. (Hint: get a few extra O-rings as they are delicate.)

 

Here are my photos of a replacement. You can see how I used a rachet strap.

 

[bigboy]

hi steve

many thanks for the info , do i see that you left aal of the fuse box and electrics complete, ifso did it leave enough room for the frame to be lifted up ok. did you remove the full exhaust or did you support it .

[Stan Walker]

may i ask if this job is a day job or would it lead into 2 days.

At three or four hours a day mine is moving into day 7...... I'm still not done. To be fair, I could work at it harder, I pretty much work an hour then go play on the internet......

 

For a first timer, if you work at it, I would guess 8 hours to tear it down, 8 to put it back together, and a few more watching the video of this being done on an R1100RT. Be sure to have a shop manual available too.

 

what other work should be carried out when the trans is removed from the bike.

 

Lube the splines on the input shaft / clutch disc with a top notch high quality grease. Honda Moly 60 is what I'm using.

 

There are places on the clutch diaphragm spring that should also be lubed (very lightly) you don't want this stuff getting on the friction surface.

 

There are 3 more sets of splines and 2 universals in the drive train between the tranny and the final drive. They don't seem to be a common problem but it's worth checking U joints / lubing splines if you have the time.

 

There are 2 sets of pivot bearings that allow up and down motion of the rear suspension. At 100,000 miles I would be surprised if the ones by the final drive were still good. There should be no play in the final drive if you grab the rear wheel top & bottom and try to wiggle it. Same for side to side. If you remove the final drive from the swingarm I would plan on replacing them.

 

Most 1100's have problems with the neutral light getting sluggish or not working. The switch that controls it is mounted on the back side of the tranny and requires removal of the swingarm to replace.

 

Dont suppose you know a shortcut to removing trans is it possible to lift the rear frame away from the trans or has it 100% got to be removed from the bike to gain access.

 

The tranny, swingarm, final drive, and rear wheel can be removed as a unit (or so I've heard). That would save considerable labor. But it prevents access to the other items listed above.

 

Good luck, I highly recommend viewing the video and having a manual to guide you.

 

Stan

[Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs]

hi steve

many thanks for the info , do i see that you left aal of the fuse box and electrics complete, ifso did it leave enough room for the frame to be lifted up ok. did you remove the full exhaust or did you support it .

 

Yes, the fuse box and aft wiring loom stayed on the bike, but you need to pay close attention to the left side where the loom passes as it is changing from a straight path to around a corner as you lift the subframe. Snipping some tie-wraps certainly helped.

 

I left the pipes coming from the cylinder heads and removed the rear section. You might not have to, but it made it much easier especially as you get to pulling the transmission.

 

I did this job myself, and it took a couple of days, particularly because I didn't have all of the tools I'd need, had to go rent a heat gun and was dealing with a nasty head-cold. It sucks to work in a cold garage with a fever.

[bigboy]

hi steve

 

i know about cold garage,s many thanks for your input and the impressive pics they will be of great help to me i am sure. I am glad about the rear frame i had to take it off last year when i did a change on the wiring loom and other tasks WHAT A COMPLETE PIGS A--E OF A JOB . But it was great to get intimate with the bike when i have done the clutch i will be very well aquainted with the machine.

 

Once again many thanks and a happy upright newyear.

 

KIND REGARDS

DEREK

[bigboy]

HI STAN

Many thanks for youe input it is much appreciated.

kind regards

and a happy upright new year to you.

 

DEREK