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BMW R1200RT shocks


Tommy78

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Posted

Hi

Is it normal sitting on the bike and moving up and down to test the shocks to hit the bottom the shocks?

Have a 2005 model so no ESA. From the red dot i rotated 5 clicks

and rebound 3-4 mm clockwise (reset to factory first).

 

My weight is 225lbs + gear.

Got 53k km /32k miles on it now.

Started to feel a bit strange, wobbly when i drive lately.

How mouch bounce is normal when hitting a speed bump?

Found nothing wrong with the rear wheel and tyre. Its all thight.

 

If i were to replace shocks with Ohlins. Do i need to do front and rear? Or can i skip front and just do rear?

 

 

Guest Kakugo
Posted

Hi Tommy. It sounds like your shocks are done for.

A few options to choose from:

 

1) Shock rebuild. No idea if you have somebody local who can do the job but it's feasible. Price is usually about half what you'd pay for a new set of shocks but be sure they give you a full warranty on the rebuild.

2)Ohlins. Enough said.

3)Wilbers. That's what I am using right now. Quite happy with them and came with a five year warranty!

4)Hyperpro.

 

I would strongly recommend against changing a shock at a time. You'll end up with a very unbalanced bike.

Posted

Search CraigsList for used Ohlins should cost $600 - $800 pair.

Buy used OEM non ESA BMW shocks to replace yours. I've got a pair for $200.

Check out RaceTech for a rebuild of your stock shocks. If you buy new Ohlins ($1500pr) keep your old OEM's so you can sell your Ohlins separate when you sell the bike.

Posted

At 32k your OEM shocks are way past dead. It's not just about bottoming but topping the shocks, too, especially over speed bumps.

 

Now's your opportunity to ditch BMW's OEM shocks and get good ones like Ohlins or Wilbers that actually have good rebound damping.

 

Don't mix shocks -- replace front and rear together. I'm partial to Ohlins. Good shocks will transform your bike in ways that will bring a huge smile to your face every time you lean into a curve, especially if the pavement isn't perfect. The improvement in control and comfort on any surface will amaze you. You won't recognized the bike. It'll be better than new.

 

Also, Ohlins and others are rebuildable when they wear out, unlike the disposable OEMs.

Posted (edited)

Is it spesific to BMW R1200RT that the shocks does'nt last longer?

What about other models/Brands? (Yes im new to MC :) )

 

Do the Ohlins or Wilbers match the size of the stock shocks?

No need adjust the headlight and height remains the same?

 

Edited by Tommy78
Posted

Most stock bike shocks lose their best performance by 30k. BMW stock shocks are pretty mediocre as new and are really bad when worn. The only recourse for worn OEM shocks is to replace them. Good aftermarket shocks can be rebuilt when they're worn, which is less expensive than replacement.

 

Ohlins and Wilbers build shocks specific to your bike, and the spring height will match stock. A professional installer will adjust the optimal ride height to your riding weight, or if you install them yourself there are instructions included for you to set them up. There should be no need to adjust the headlights, but you may want to confirm the aiming, which is pretty simple.

dirtdreamer50
Posted

A friend's 04 1150's rear shock was gone by 30k miles, probably 80+% of that was two up with gear. I had an 03 1150 with 66k miles on it and the suspension still felt fine to me when I recently traded it for a 1200RT. tomp dd50

Posted

Thanks for the replys guys. Since i need a new rear tire, i am going to let the BMW deler check the shocks while it's there.

 

Anyway i am thinking of replacing this one with a BMW K1300GT 2009 or a 2010 R1200RT (next season).

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have replaced both with Wilbers shocks.

I tried first to increase the knob further by and experimented with the rebound. But i still bottom'ed the rear shocks at speed bumps etc. or simply sitting on it.

Any the result is:

Front: Much thighter now, and i did a few test brakes and one emergency today and i did'nt get lunged forward like before.

Rear: Test ride all over the country side to hit those speed bumps i bottom'ed ,and that problem is gone. The bike feels much more solid, no more bouncy bouncy :)

 

I installed them myself, so it was a nice learning experience

Posted

I have a couple of questions about the Ohlins.

 

The rear shock for my 05RT comes in 2 models: 46DR and 46DRS. The DR costs less but does not have the preload adjustment on a cable that would probably allow it to be mounted on the bike similar to the OE knob under the rear seat.

 

1. So,if I got the DR, without the cable, how hard would it be to access the adjustment knob on the shock itself when it needed to be changed?

 

2. If I got the DRS, ($212 more), where have you chosen to mount the cabled adjustment knob? In the same place as the OE or somewhere else?

 

Thanks, Basil

Posted

Get the DRS if you'll be changing preload often. I mounted mine where Ohlins recommends, above the muffler, between the left side case and the rear wheel. It points rearward so it's pretty easy to reach from behind the bike.

 

Enjoy great shocks!

Posted

You can put the remote adjuster low on the frame or move it under the seat to get it out of the weather a bit- whatever you prefer. Nothing hugely critical about where you mount it. Once you find your setup, you won't use it much..

 

You will probably not believe how much improvement a first class shock set will make for your bike. Many who have done it will tell it is the best money they're ever spent on a bike part. I ride a K1200RS that has Ohlins and my 08RT will get them or similar when factory ESA dies- I don't use ESA enough to need to repair or replace it.

 

I do take some issues with previous comments about BMW shocks. In general they're as good or better than most other brands use and mine are still in fine shape at 40K miles on my RT (the RS shocks got changed mostly because the bike got some track use, not because stockers wore out). But they are a compromise design compared to the best ones.

 

Do be sure to get pro assistance with your purchase or installation. If you're new to this sort of thing, the few $ you spend with a good shop to get the most out of a pricey shock set will be money well spent. Remember that Ohlins and similar are rebuildable so at some point you will eventually need shop services for that, unless you also plan to equip yourself for shock service Your bike can last long enough to need several shock rebuilds if well maintained.

 

malcolmblalock
Posted

I have a dumb question. I ride an 09 RT that now had 53,000 miles and original ESA shocks. I weigh 195 plus gear and ride mostly one-up. My question is this--how do you know when the shocks need to be replaced? Mine feel as solid as when I bought the bike. No bouncing. No bottoming out. The bike feels very solid when riding on all surfaces. I use the ESA to change damping when riding harder or when on the slab and enjoy the convenience of changing on the fly. When I have a passenger, I go to two helmets, and when I'm solo but loaded with gear, I go to 1.5 helmets. So, back to my question--how do you know when the shocks need to be changed?

 

I had an earlier 05 RT with ESA, and I could tell at 72,000 miles that the bike was wallowing and bouncing a bit so I changed to some Hyperpros, and the bike rode much more stable. But my 09 at 53,000 miles still rides like it did when I got it.

Posted

I don't think you need new shocks and I think you know how to tell.

 

I have been in this duscussion too many times.

 

I read here "BMW shocks are junk after 30,000 miles" I disagree.

 

You answered your own question. No bouncing around means the shock is good.

 

No bottoming out means the spring is good.

 

I parked my R1100RT with 137,000 miles on it. Original shocks. I did replace the front spring (not the shock) a while back.

 

When I rebuilt the motor a while ago, I wrote to one of the shock folks to get mine rebuilt. His response was "if its not leaking and your spring is good, it won't do you any good"

 

The rear shock got to the point that I had to turn the rebound screw all the way in to get the response I wanted so it was on its way out. By then I had a better idea, just replace the bike.

 

Now riding an R1200R with your same thoughts. Shocks and suspension are good.

 

Just a note, if you get new shocks and have them set up by a racer, they may be set up for racing...

 

Its a personal thing, season to taste. I like that BMW ride and some times I have them set on "Princess" for my comfort especially on long trips. When I get to the twisties, I make the adjustments for that type of riding.

 

Only my $.02 flame away!

David

malcolmblalock
Posted

David, I guess I've read so many threads on the forums about the OEM shocks being trash at 10,000 (or X) miles that I figured that I must not be able to tell the difference between a trashed shock and a good shock. I will admit that I don't ride exceptionally hard; have never drug a peg (but have touched my foot twice), but I'm a 64 year old guy who's been riding only 10 years (now, over 200,000 miles), so I must be ignorant.

 

I'd love to read other's reaction to my thoughts/experience, shocks-wise, to see if you and I are the only ones to get decent OEM shocks.

Posted
I'd love to read other's reaction to my thoughts/experience, shocks-wise, to see if you and I are the only ones to get decent OEM shocks.

Well you are not.

I can assure you that there are 100 satisfied riders with the stock shocks to 1 that complains, then there are unsatisfied ones.

The ones that do nothing but complain, have chosen the wrong type of motorbike. I suggest if you want racing bike performance...buy a racing bike.

 

Sorry but all the complains really start to get to me.

My 05 1200RT has 39000km on the clock and with the side panniers, I can stay with quite a few 650/750/800 sports bikes.

And with the panniers taken off, I can round a few of them up and pass them on windy hill roads.

That's good enough for me on a bike that neither has high power to weight ratio, nor is designated as a pure sports bike.

On top of that, I am certainly not some "great" rider..average at best.

 

Posted
David, I guess I've read so many threads on the forums about the OEM shocks being trash at 10,000 (or X) miles that I figured that I must not be able to tell the difference between a trashed shock and a good shock. I will admit that I don't ride exceptionally hard; have never drug a peg (but have touched my foot twice), but I'm a 64 year old guy who's been riding only 10 years (now, over 200,000 miles), so I must be ignorant.

 

I'd love to read other's reaction to my thoughts/experience, shocks-wise, to see if you and I are the only ones to get decent OEM shocks.

 

I think the OEM shocks are just fine. I can only speak for myself but, I think that $1500 spent on riding lessons at the track would allow me to go faster in the twisties than $1500 spent on some great new aftermarket shocks. Don't get me wrong. I think Ohlins are better than the OEM shocks. I just don't see the point in replacing stock shocks because...well, because you read that they're crap. Remember, this forum tends to bring out the outlier issues with our bikes.

 

Caveat: If you sit on your bike, jump on the pegs, and your bike bounces up and down crazily...then your shocks are blown and now you have to decide whether to buy new OEM or aftermarket. But...that is a different question than replacing a perfectly good pair of OEM shocks.

 

My 2 cents....

Posted

You know folks, a finely tuned set of quality shocks does more for you than make the bike more race ready.

Posted

I must say I have never used ohlins. I do have a 2011 Kawasaki Versys with good adjustable factory shocks front and rear.the springs are stiffer and handling is great. On any thing, getting the sag correct and damping makes for a much better ride.

 

 

 

Posted
You know folks, a finely tuned set of quality shocks does more for you than make the bike more race ready.

 

That's exactly my thought, a point I have tried to hammer home with remarkable lack of success for years.

But again if people really want to believe their shock are still sound at 40000km (and they aren't, trust me, even if they are Ohlins) and that's just a waste of money I won't argue with them.

Posted

Such a silly thing to argue over. If you think your $2k shocks were worth the money good for you. If you are happy with the way your 50k+ mile shocks ride good for you. Noone is right or wrong here.

Posted
Noone is right or wrong here.

 

I'm inclined to agree Erik, unless there is something obviously wrong with the shocks.

 

My RT ESA shocks are on 56K now, quite a lot of it two up.

Usually I have them set to comfort, but if the road surface gets 'wallowy' or the bends get 'twisty'

switching to normal, or sport setting cures any bad behaviour.

They work for me, and the riding I do.

 

If they are worn out, I must have managed to compensate, as mine seem fine to me.

:)

Posted

Does any one know what the correct ride height (sag) specs are for a R1200RT? Suspension full exteneded and then compressed by the bikes weight alone. I replaced the front unit on my RT with and Ohlins unit and the sag specs they give appear to be very generic and not for an RT. I would like to know the numbers for both front and rear.

Thanks

Eric

Posted (edited)

30% of suspension travel. On my 2000 RT it said right in the owners manual 55 mm. I think I had it set to 46 mm.

 

My R1200R has 120 mm by the book. It is 41 mm with me on the bike. Rear is 140 mm travel, so 46 mm is where I have it. These are all with me on the bike ready to roll.

Edited by David R
Posted

Thanks for the information, I spoke with Gary Christopher at Ohlins, he is one of the technical guys and he said boxer twins are different animals and sag should be 45 to 50 MM with rider on the bike. He added that this should apply to both front and rear.

Eric

Posted

Having personally tested shocks with an objective measuring device for MCN using my former (2004) RT, I have two thoughts on the subject:

 

1) Those with worn stock shocks rarely know it. It's not like *poof*, one day your ride and handling suck. It degrades slowly over time, and you do not notice the subtle shifts from good to bad to worse. Sort of like watching grass grow.

 

2) The person installing and tuning the hardware is MUCH more important than the brand of hardware. THAT'S where all the difference is. I see alot of guys on here arguing about Ohlins vs Wilbers vs YSS and on and on, but if you don't tune the hardware perfectly, you can see 0 net benefit or worse. Nobody argues about that, but they should, because THAT is where you will finally see a night and day difference. Tuning took awhile for each set of shocks we tested for MCN, and the difference between slapping the shocks on and having them tuned was MORE than the difference between stock and aftermarket shocks.

 

3) Hate to say it, but there IS right and wrong here. There is an objective measurement you can use to see that your shocks are worn, or not. You may not *feel* it, but feeling is opinion. Worn behavior is fact. So is the actual loss of control that accompanies worn out hardware. See article link below.

 

That's my experience, anyway. My 1200RT with ESA is turning 14,000 miles and the stock shocks feel fine. You guys don't know what bad stock suspension is. An RT with 100,000 miles on original stock suspension is still better than any stock Harley I've ridden off the showroom floor. Article here http://www.mklsportster.com/Articles/mcnsuspension.pdf

 

-MKL

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Thanks Moshe. I read the article and looked at the graphs and I just do not see $1500 difference between stock and Ohlins.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

FWIW, my OEM rear died at 24,000 miles. A replacement non-ESA OEM was quoted to me at $1400 (ESA was quoted as an additional $1000). I bought an Ohlins online for $650. (It died after a year and was replaced by Ohlins in 4 days!)

That being said, I have felt no difference through the tuchas between the OEM, or either Ohlins in handling, cornering, braking, ride or acceleration. I don't spend any time on track nor do I ride hard but if it isn't noticeable on the road, is it really worth the extra cash?

Posted

AN UPDATE:::

 

I sent my stock shocks to Klaus at HyperPro. Even though his website says he CAN rebuild the stock shocks AND the lady who answered the phone assured me that they could. WRONG. Klaus called me yesterday and informed me that they could rebuild the rear shock; but the front shock CANNOT be rebuilt. He also recommended that with my weight [240], my wife's weight [140], and luggage, that I should have a beefier spring than the stock. Bottom line, I would be better off buying a new shock that was already rated for the extra weight. So I am back at square one. I am searching for a set of shocks that CAN be rebuilt for my 2009 R1200RT.

Posted

Most shocks become worn out because the rebound dampening losses it's strength. ( they return too fast) Most front shocks are non adjustable, so you cannot increase as they wear down. I got a used R1200R that was adjustable, and increased the (harder) bottom screw about 3/4 hard and I like the results.

Problem is , you cannot get at screws once installed, a-arm covers bottom.

I don't know if these can be re-built either?

Posted

The stock shocks I just replaced on my RT only had 16k on them (at best). That said, there was no amount of adjustment that could make them perform like the Ohlins. The cornering, ride, and all around performance of the bike has been enhanced greatly. I was lucky in the price I paid for new in the box shocks as I purchased them from a fellow reader on this forum. But that said, now knowing the difference, I wish I had done it (and yes at full price) years ago.

Posted

Happy Birthday to this thread, it just turned 4.

 

I got a cop bike and the springs are very heavy.

 

Only just got the wilbers sorted out.

 

I think they ship them to go on racing bikes :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've owned both Ohlins and Wilbers. You made the right choice going with Wilbers. I consider Ohlins and Wilbers about equal as far handling. Both are impeccable. Where they differ is in longevity. Every rear Ohlin I've ever owned has had the handling go down dramatically after the 35k mark. The single pair of Wilbers I have on my 2005 RT didn't go south until after 70k. Also, I had two of three rear Ohlin shocks blow seals after 35k. It's never happened on the single rear Wilbers. I got my RT in April of 2005 and had Wilbers on it before May 2005 was up. These shocks now have over 120 thousand miles on them and have been re-conditioned only once. At about 75k for the rear and 90k for the front. Both shocks are still handling great. The stock non-ESA BMW shocks tend to not last more than 20k without having seal issues. And they handle like Wilbers do... when the Wilbers need a rebuild. Actually the Wilbers STILL handle better when they need a rebuild.

  • 1 year later...
OldBMWMaster
Posted

I am going to call Klaus today. I found a set of BMW shocks and they are already shot. I should have saved myself the trouble and bought the Wilburs to begin with.

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