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Another heated clothing question


JayW

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I am waiting for a Gerbings heated jacket liner to come in the mail from Santa. I'll also be getting the BMW adaptor, and the dual controller to allow for future flexibility.

 

When Mrs Clause ordered it, the folks at the BMW dealer said that they would not recommend using the power outlet on my R1200RT. They said it could be used, but it has to be done a certain way - turn on the key, let the self-check process complete, start the bike, THEN plug in the adapter. Apparently you must also unplug the unit before turning off the bike.

 

Is all of this true? What if I stall the bike? Do I need to unplug before starting it back up? I would prefer the convenience of using the built in receptacle, rather than hooking up directly to the battery. I have used other accessories in the stock receptacle without going through this ritual.

 

Jay

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I just bought the same liner and was told I should use the wiring harness directly to the battery which I did..It's a simple install on the 05 and 06 models. I plan to change the plugs on my battery tender and air compressor to match the plug on my jacket liner..There seems to be something going on with the electrical system on the new RT's..My brother went to test ride one today and when the salesman tried to start it the battery was dead..The service manager where I bought cautioned me not to leave the key in the ignition and not to use a battery tender..He said just leaving the key in the ignition for some reason seems to be draining the batteries..

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The oem power sockets are limited to 10 amps - not 10 each but 10 total between the 2. If you try to use more Gerbings units than that (one jacket liner and one set of gloves simultaneously is slightly less than 10 amps) you're going to have to wire the circuit to the battery as suggested.

 

_When_ you plug the Gerbings circuit into the oem outlet is irrelevant - before starting, after starting, before turning on the key, after turning on the key. I'm not sure if it would matter if you insert the plug _while_ the test sequence is in progress, but I've tried all the other variations with no ill effects.

 

Congratulations on the heated clothing - youre going to LOVE it!

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I just bought the same liner and was told I should use the wiring harness directly to the battery which I did..It's a simple install on the 05 and 06 models. I plan to change the plugs on my battery tender and air compressor to match the plug on my jacket liner..There seems to be something going on with the electrical system on the new RT's..My brother went to test ride one today and when the salesman tried to start it the battery was dead..The service manager where I bought cautioned me not to leave the key in the ignition and not to use a battery tender..He said just leaving the key in the ignition for some reason seems to be draining the batteries..

 

I leave my key in the ignition for weeks at a time with no ill effects. I also use a battery tender confused.gif

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The service manager where I bought cautioned me not to leave the key in the ignition and not to use a battery tender..He said just leaving the key in the ignition for some reason seems to be draining the batteries..
It's my understanding that this is due to the "electronic immobilizer" whereby the bike and ignition key are constantly "talking" to each other. (At least that's what I've heard from more than one dealer.) In fact, I was also told that mounting an electronic toll tag could also be a problem as well but one of my riding buddies has a toll tag on his K1200R and has had no problems whatsoever (and he doesn't use a tender).
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it has to be done a certain way - turn on the key, let the self-check process complete, start the bike, THEN plug in the adapter. Apparently you must also unplug the unit before turning off the bike.

 

Is all of this true?

FWIW I just received a pair of their gloves (already have the jacket liner) and for the first time that I've seen, Gerbing themselves are now including an insert in the packaging that says the exact same thing.

 

Personally I just forget about the whole acc'y socket baloney and wire the Gerbing harness directly. It's not like you can accidentally leave the heat clothing turned on and run down the battery or anything.

 

As a side note though, I would say that waiting to turn on the clothing until any bike is running is in general a good idea. An additional 100W (or whatever depending upon what heat pieces you are wearing) load during cranking in cold weather can't be helping the battery get the bike started.

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Another vote for wiring directly to the battery! Mine is wired from the batt to the dual controller back to two plugs comming out by the seat / tank. Then I plug in. I switch it on after the bike is running , generally.

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Maybe wiring it to the battery is less of a hassle than what I am imagining. I don't want to cut into anything, and I don't want an ugly adaptor end flopping around or obviously visible when I am not using the clothing.

I suppose I'll just try the OEM socket first, and if it doesn't work well, then tap directly into the battery. I was given the impression that if I don't do the sequence properly that I could end up with error codes from the computer, but nobody seems to have had that happen on this forum.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Jay

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The oem power sockets are limited to 10 amps - not 10 each but 10 total between the 2. If you try to use more Gerbings units than that (one jacket liner and one set of gloves simultaneously is slightly less than 10 amps) you're going to have to wire the circuit to the battery as suggested.

 

To that load add the GPS if you use the BMW Navigator or, like I did initially, tap into the power lines for that unit. Gerbing's jacket liner & gloves via dual controller to accessory socket plus GPS caused accessory circuit to 'die' while riding. At next stop light I turned GPS (2610) and engine off, restarted engine, and got heat back.

 

Have now installed a Blue Sea fuse box via a relay, and 30 amp fuse to the battery. Also a separate fused outlet connected directly to the battery for charging with a Battery Tender Plus (model DEL-021-0156). Added an extra switch under the seat that allows me to select either accessory power (switched) or battery power for turning on the relay. GPS and Gerbing are connected to the Blue Sea.

 

While navigating routes, I will use battery power to the Blue Sea to keep GPS on while gassing up or stopping for lunch. A battery monitor connected to the Blue Sea and positioned next to the GPS reminds me that power is still on after switching off the ignition. With only the GPS it glows a dim green but it reminded me recently, by flashing red, that the Gerbing stuff was still plugged in after I had turned off the ignition.

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I took out my R1200RT last week in 30 degree temp with a Gerbing jacket plugged into the socket. No problems. The jacket is awesome, though you really do want the rheostat with it; with the rocker switch, you're constantly switching on and off, as it gets too hot in seconds.

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I took out my R1200RT last week in 30 degree temp with a Gerbing jacket plugged into the socket. No problems. The jacket is awesome, though you really do want the rheostat with it; with the rocker switch, you're constantly switching on and off, as it gets too hot in seconds.

 

Sounds great - maybe like putting on a warm shirt straight from the dryer, except it doesn't cool down. I've never tried heated clothing before, but do ride year-round. I anticipate that the jacket liner will allow me to lengthen my rides and ride in any TN winter temperature. I am hoping that with long underwear, and the heated grips and seat on the RT, that I won't need the heated gloves, pant liner, or socks.

 

Jay

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Maybe wiring it to the battery is less of a hassle than what I am imagining. I don't want to cut into anything, and I don't want an ugly adaptor end flopping around or obviously visible when I am not using the clothing.

I suppose I'll just try the OEM socket first, and if it doesn't work well, then tap directly into the battery. I was given the impression that if I don't do the sequence properly that I could end up with error codes from the computer, but nobody seems to have had that happen on this forum.

I have the same bike, same Gerbings rig. I used the factory outlet with no problems, but ended up going battery-direct anyway. It's an easy mod to do. The Gerbing fused pigtail can hide under the seat out of the way when not in use. I placed a piece of dual lock on the back of the controller, and another small piece on the base of the tank, just above the forward edge of the seat. I stick the controller there. Probably looks a little strange when I reach down there to make an 'adjustment' wink.gif

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Does anyone know the draw of Widder Vests? I installed a rear socket with the intent of both rider and passenger using Widder vests, will the RT push enough current to run both?

Fran

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Does anyone know the draw of Widder Vests? I installed a rear socket with the intent of both rider and passenger using Widder vests, will the RT push enough current to run both?

Fran

 

Yep. According to the documentation, current draw is 33W for size 36-40, 35W for size 42-48 and 48W for size 50-56.

 

Hope this helps thumbsup.gif

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I'll put in my kudos for the Aerostich Kenetsu electric liner. About 3 years ago my starter died on the way back from Hollister CA to Houston TX and I had to do a dead run from Indio CA to Houston in December (22 hours 1600 miles). It got down to 17 degrees near morning and I was warm the entire time. The wind block capability makes a huge difference, and while I never had the thermostat (electronic version) turned all the way up it was close. There are many good ones but I do like the zip in my jacket, Darien, version. thumbsup.gif

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I don't know about you guys, but I'm having a serious issue with my Widder heated vest. While ridding is so incredibly warm and confortable, I wouldn't want to get off the bike even after reaching destinations. I took a 130-mile ride to the lake on the other day, I ended up coming back without doing anything.. not even takng a pee. Your vacation can be ruined, as all you would remember is paved roads and traffic signs.. grin.gif

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I'll put in my kudos for the Aerostich Kenetsu electric liner. About 3 years ago my starter died on the way back from Hollister CA to Houston TX and I had to do a dead run from Indio CA to Houston in December (22 hours 1600 miles). It got down to 17 degrees near morning and I was warm the entire time. The wind block capability makes a huge difference, and while I never had the thermostat (electronic version) turned all the way up it was close. There are many good ones but I do like the zip in my jacket, Darien, version. thumbsup.gif

 

I'm with you on that one.

 

My Widder vest and chaps were warmer in the heat department, but because of the chaps my arms were hot and cold. The Kinetsu keeps me good to about 10 degrees, then I am only slightly cool down from there.

 

I also like the way it zips into the Darien jacket making it easier to get on. I just wish there were a liner for the Darien pants! bncry.gif

 

Jim cool.gif

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