Jump to content

R1150RT Clutch Bleed--NOT Necessary?


hal26

Recommended Posts

Purists won't like this one. I bought my 03 RT new at the end of 02. I have dutifully performed all maintenance procedures ever since,except one. I never got around to changing clutch fluid because I did not have the correct speed bleeder. What I did instead was to change out the handlebar reservoir fluid every six months with superb ATE DOT 4. Nagging guilt (fear) finally drove me to do it the right way. Much to my surprise,the fluid that came out looked as good as the new fluid going in. It seems that the easy shortcut,turkey baster method did an excellent job in this application. Now that I have the SB1010S bleeder (ground off the tip so it will work) I will do it this way from now on. I follow the same 6 month regimen and change the front brake reservoir fluid as well. It seems to get dark in this time frame so I do the whole brake bit every couple of years as recommended. FYI,this bike is ridden less than 2,500 miles per year.

Link to comment

That's one of the things I've always wondered about, what if we just changed out the clutch and brake fluids in the resevoirs MORE often that fluid bleeds are called for? Would that keep the fluids from appreciably deteriorating?

 

The other question I had was, I know they say the brake fluid if left in too long will crystallize and damage the ABS parts, hence the yearly flush requirement, but why can my car's brakes work fine without a brake fluid change for 40 years, and it's verboten to leave my bike's in there for only 2?

Link to comment

Clutch fluid was absolutely clear coming out after 10 years of only reservoir changes every six months. Brake fluid...not so much....

Link to comment

I worry about the fluid absorbing water and corroding the body of the slave cylinder.

Bleeding the clutch and brakes is cheap insurance.

Link to comment

As someone else said, cheap insurance.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic......so it readily absorbs/adsorbs moisture. Whenever I change mine I do notice that the lever "firms up" after the fluid change.

 

I just do the clutch every two years along with the brakes. I also use this time to examine everything under the tank together with hoses etc. FYI - I also use Ate Blu and Ate Typ200 (alternating changes!) as they have higher wet and dry boiling points and the can has enough to do both brakes and clutch.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...