Mobil 1 15-50 is it OK

[star57]

I looked troughout the maintenance post but no where did it indicate what type of oil.

I decided on Mobil 1 15-50 for my 04 R1150RT

 

Does it meet with the boards aproval

 

FF

[smiller]

Short answer = a very common choice, and a very good choice.

[eakins]

yes

[philbytx]

OK, I'll bite.....

How many miles you got on the bike ??????

[DBG]

Man, The last time I asked an oil question on this site I got hosed. I run the Mobil twin 20w-50, just cause I didn't dare to ask.

[Rider1200RT]

Yep, 15-50 or 20-50 are both fine.

[star57]

The bke is still virgin......literally

only has 3150Miles

But since I was installing an Odissey battery, the skirt was out I figured why not change the oil, it was either the 10-40 bke blend or 15-50

Germans like to bath in Mobil 1 my Porsche 911 uses 0-40

ff

[SWB]

Lots and lots of opinions out there on this. Recommend my post on oil and eakin's response (redline, other options).

 

Bottom line is that Mobil1 15-50W seems to have cleaning stuff in it as a result of federal standards that BMW doesn't recommend. It's tough to find an SJ oil without the additives. Mobil recommends it's VTWIN syn (marketed towards the Harley market, which is why they only have VTwin 20-50W - Harley's OEM recommended oil vicosity) over regular automotive 15-50 extended syn, and of course, at an additional cost. (Might as well just use BMW's synthetic if you're going to pay $10 a quart!)

 

Most folks use Mobil1 15-50W without (known) consequence, though there are a few guys out there who'd burn me at the stake for saying that. Eakins makes a good case for Redline and Silkolene oils. Like everyone else, I just want something that's cheap, that I can change every 25K miles or so (whether it needs it or not), and something which will keep my boxer running perfect for about 500K miles or so.

 

I'm tough to please, so I guess I'll keep messing with oils.

[SWB]

Just to scare ya, I pulled up this quote from some old thread (can't recall where I got it from, and I'm too tired to look it up). The guy covered lots of technical stuff that I can't really understand anyway, but at least it'll give you some context to the discussion.

 

Re: Synthetic Oil, what's right ?

 

Don't!

 

There has been a lot of good stuff written about oils and bikes recently ....and a lot of unscientific rubbish too.

 

The basic problem has little to do with synthetic versus dino oils. The main problem is that since the later '90s, the extreme pressure additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Diorthophosphate) has been intentionally reduced in content year by year. This is because excessive oil that is burned causes phosphorous (the "phosphate" of ZDDP) to poison the catalytic converter over time.

 

ZDDP is the last-ditch guard against metal-to metal contact in your bearings, under severe service. This is why BMW has SPECIFICALLY warned against using newer (API type SJ to SL) automotive oils. As an alternative to expensice "bike oils", Chevron's Delo400, and Shell's standard Rotella-T (both 15W-40) (both Dino oils) are excellent. Being Diesel oils, intended for big rigs that go 100,000 miles between changes, both have much higher levels of ZDDP than standard car oils, and being classified as "HD" oils, are accepted by BWM.

 

Part of the actual BMW statement on oils (taken from BMW USA Service Bulletin 2855)is as follows...

 

"Recommendation:

"Brand name "HD oil, API classification SF, SG, or SH; CD or CE suffixes are permissable; alternatively, brand name HD oil. CMCC classification G4 or G5; suffix PD2 is permissible."

 

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, NOTE THE FOLLOWING QUOTE....

 

"The API specification SJ [and later] is NOT APPROVED for use in any BMW motorcycle". That means any standard Car Oil is NOT approved.

 

Also note that BMW has even threatened not to cover damage from such oils under warrantee.

 

That "SJ [and later]" part is what causes folks to shutter as they add Mobil 1 15-50W. Mobil 1 15-50W syn is rated API SL (i.e. SJ, SK, SL... SL is "later" than SJ). Seems like BMW is screaming "DON'T USE MOBIL 1" and whispering ("keep using our semi-syn stuff and paying through the nose for it"). I'm absolutely convinced that there are better oils out there than BMW's overpriced synthetic (which again, as I understand it, is PART dino anyway), at a lower price to boot. I'm just not sure which one's they are.

 

Now you know everything I know about the motorcycle/Beemer oil debate, and again, thoughly armed with the "facts", I still don't know what-the-heck I'm doing, and I'm stilling using Mobil1 15-50W 'cause Walmart stocks it.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Damn good thing the bike can't read.

 

Just put whatever makes you feel good in there and forget about it.

 

Any modern oil of pretty much any recent API specification will be fine.

 

All the rest of this is picking fly poo out of ground pepper.

 

Fly somewhere warm, rent a bike and go for a ride. You'll feel better.

[PETDOC]

I was torn between using Mobil 1 and the warning from BMW not to use oils that don't have the proper classification until I read a wonderful 2 part comparison of oils in MCN published a few years ago and saw this article http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html. Convinced me the only significant difference between BMW's synthetic oil and Mobil 1 is the price.

[bmweerman]

60K miles and going strong!!!

[Urban Surfer]

On the back of a jug of Mobil one 15-50 reads " meets API classifications of SL,SJ,SH,ACEA,AB,B3,B4,and MB229.1

So how can you go wrong?

Hey the BMW shops all told me if I bleed my own brakes I don't have any warrantee!

[philbytx]

Common wisdom is not to use synthetics until the bike has at least.....XXXX miles.

Where XXX - 10k, 15k or whatever but YMMV!!!

[harpoon47]

I thought the information at the Internet BMW Riders site was very informative and is a good guide to making a decision you can be comfortable with.

 

http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

 

I thought they did a great job putting the info. together.

[SWB]

I thought the information at the Internet BMW Riders site was very informative and is a good guide to making a decision you can be comfortable with.

 

http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

 

I thought they did a great job putting the info. together.

 

I read this before, and got lost in the technical minutia. Also, this report is 6 years old, and I'm not certain it's still accurate. The authors conclusion seems to be that BMW's SG type "dino" oils represent the best protection for BMW motorcycles. His key reference point, indeed the entire point of his article, is the amount of phosphorous in modern auto oils, which is the main "anti-wear" agent that the Beemer engines depend on. The EPA is mandating less phosphorous for Auto oils, the oil industry is responding, and the result is that modern SJ auto oils have less than optimum amounts of anti-wear agents.

 

This conclusion bothers me:

 

"Are BMW's oils better than the automotive oils? For anti-wear, the BMW SG oil is tough to beat. It has been shown to be better than the cheaper automotive oils, and ahead of Mobil 1 in wear fighters."

 

Well fine and good. Except that BMW recommends it's Synthetic (actually, they market a dino/syn blend) over any dino oil. BMW's API SH rated syn oil is rated at only 941 PPM, BMW's SG dino oil is the highest at 1339 PPM, and Mobil 1 15w50 oils are all between 1058 PPM and 1095 PPM, i.e. Mobil 1 oils are about 10% higher in phosphorous than BMW's own synthetic oil.

 

So, my opinion: Use whatever SJ rated synthetic, because regardless of all the techno mumbo-jumbo, I KNOW from my own research that synthetics don't break down as quickly as dino oils, and because of that, provide better protection over the full duration between oil changes.

 

Alternatively, use good dino oil every 3K miles, and you're engine will probably crap out on you early, like 250K miles instead of 300K miles.

 

Only one thing is REALLY important: Change your oil regularly. (Second thing: Lube them-thar splines!)

[SDMike]

I read somewhere that the new gold cap Mobil 1 is the closest to the old red cap Mobil 1.

 

Anyone?

 

M

[wolcott]

I usually get Mobil 1 at the local Wal-Mart. Yes, this is the closest you can find now, I believe. This summer I noticed that they had no red cap Mobil 1, only this new and improved extended mileage gold cap Mobil 1-also, I don't think I've seen any red cap Mobil 1 at the auto parts store either. Good for 15,000 miles or one year whichever comes first, supposedly.

They upped the price to something like $5.65 a quart. I bought a 5 gallon container for $25.00. I couldn't find Mobil 1 20W-50, I had to settle for 15W-50. That's okay, since when it's colder out, that oil is getting to vital parts quicker. After reading the first page of posts, I see now what happened to my Mobil 1 20W-50. They made it into Mobil 1 V-twin 20W-50 and charge $10 a quart for it, the bastards! I refuse to pay $10 a quart for motorcycle oil. Let them stuff that in their supply and demand marketing equation.

[Bill J]

I'm with you!!! We should not be so bothered about the minmal (if any) differences in oil and just change it regularly and keep the oil level up.

I'm still waiting to hear about the engine that melted down because someone used dino, automotive, or non-BMW oil in their bike.

I thought the information at the Internet BMW Riders site was very informative and is a good guide to making a decision you can be comfortable with.

 

http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

 

I thought they did a great job putting the info. together.

 

I read this before, and got lost in the technical minutia. Also, this report is 6 years old, and I'm not certain it's still accurate. The authors conclusion seems to be that BMW's SG type "dino" oils represent the best protection for BMW motorcycles. His key reference point, indeed the entire point of his article, is the amount of phosphorous in modern auto oils, which is the main "anti-wear" agent that the Beemer engines depend on. The EPA is mandating less phosphorous for Auto oils, the oil industry is responding, and the result is that modern SJ auto oils have less than optimum amounts of anti-wear agents.

 

This conclusion bothers me:

 

"Are BMW's oils better than the automotive oils? For anti-wear, the BMW SG oil is tough to beat. It has been shown to be better than the cheaper automotive oils, and ahead of Mobil 1 in wear fighters."

 

Well fine and good. Except that BMW recommends it's Synthetic (actually, they market a dino/syn blend) over any dino oil. BMW's API SH rated syn oil is rated at only 941 PPM, BMW's SG dino oil is the highest at 1339 PPM, and Mobil 1 15w50 oils are all between 1058 PPM and 1095 PPM, i.e. Mobil 1 oils are about 10% higher in phosphorous than BMW's own synthetic oil.

 

So, my opinion: Use whatever SJ rated synthetic, because regardless of all the techno mumbo-jumbo, I KNOW from my own research that synthetics don't break down as quickly as dino oils, and because of that, provide better protection over the full duration between oil changes.

 

Alternatively, use good dino oil every 3K miles, and you're engine will probably crap out on you early, like 250K miles instead of 300K miles.

 

Only one thing is REALLY important: Change your oil regularly. (Second thing: Lube them-thar splines!)

[Larry]

"Change it regularly and keep the oil level up." Like Bill J said. I very much agree. But look at the date on some of those oil test. To say the least their outdated. As fast as things change today, if a test was preformed now it would most likely be history by years end. I think oils have changed for the best. I work for G.E. Aircraft Engines. If the old lubs were better we would be useing them in our engines, and the new high performance cars. Motorcycle oils are what the oil companies call Off Labels. Their oil with a different label. If the additive package was better, thay'd have one with their motorcycle oil label on it. Oil companies are not dumb,their not going to lose profits. When was the last time you saw a BMW oil refinery?