bmweerman Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Hello again mein troopers As some of you know I'm doing a spline lube and clutch plate replacement on my RT. According to Ted's Video the bearing carriers need to be heated to break the locktite and that excessive force will strip the threads...OK..great. Well the inner one came out just fine But this sucker..... Is not budging....I don't know how I could heat it up any more. Have spent 2 evenings on this bad boy. Any thoughts? TIA Cameron Link to comment
steve.foote Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 What are you using to heat it up with? Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 I hope you are using a really long breaker bar!!! The torque spec on those fixed journals is 150 Nm on the early bikes, and was chaged at some point to be 160 Nm. It takes a lot of heat (10+ minutes) and a lot of torque to start it turning. Once it starts it should turn out smooth, if it's jerky you still need more heat. HTH Stan Link to comment
BUSTED Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Bruno and me took mine apart where I broke down with no heat assistance. It was a real bear and I'm lucky no damage to bike. We found a 10' piece of pipe laying next to a fellows garage, and slipped it over the wrench. I say don't do this at home! Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 We found a 10' piece of pipe laying next to a fellows garage, and slipped it over the wrench Lucky you didn't disturb the Earths orbit with that lever........ 10 foot, wow!!!!! Stan Link to comment
Ken H. Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Where are you concentrating the heat, the housing or the bolt? In this case because you are trying to release the compound I believe you will have better luck heating the bolt. Blow the heat down the center long and hard. You want it so hot you would easily burn your finger if touched. That and a long breaker bar (although 10' might be a bit of a stretch ) and it will come. Unlike ill-fated transmission drain plugs sometimes, I've never seen one strip out or anything. The pivot bolt is very hard material. So don't be afraid to lean into it so to speak. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 We found a 10' piece of pipe laying next to a fellows garage, and slipped it over the wrench Lucky you didn't disturb the Earths orbit with that lever........ Now THAT'S Funny But seriously though..I will work on that tonight and let you guys know what happens. This darn working for a living serioulsy cuts into my "renching and riding time Thanks again. Gratitude with Attitude Cameron Link to comment
smiller Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Any thoughts? Yep... when you reassemble use blue locktite! Even though I will do doubt take a shot for this comment I think blue is quite adequate in this application. I've never seen one strip out or anything. I have. Mine. Luckily the female threads in the transmission didn't strip, but the bearing carrier bolt failed, fractured around the Allen head socket hole. Added about a week to the repair process to get another one. Link to comment
Edgar Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 It looks like you suffer from project creep! I have the same problem. One school of thought on the clutch repair is to keep the back wheel together with the drive shaft/final drive and roll the gearbox back to expose the clutch. Then with assistance roll it back together being careful with the pushrod and be done with it. Now that you’re into the drive shaft plan on replacing the bearings in pairs as needed. They generally come out in two pieces. You may get lucky and not need to replace them, but be prepared. They’re $40.00 apiece. When you connect the driveshaft back up, the front (tranny end)connects up first, leave a rag in the final drive end of the drive shaft housing for the drive shaft to rest on to provide some elevation of the shaft for an easier connection. When the shaft is mated up with the final drive, push the pieces together, pull the rag out and button it back up. Good luck! Link to comment
USAF1 Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Just a bit over 200 degrees F is key! Get spit on your finger, and then touch the surfaces being heated......it should "Sizzle" when your close. And yes.....the longer the breaker bar, the better. Mine is 20".....added to the wrench it's about 32"! Pat Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 It looks like you suffer from project creep! Absolutely! Now I know what to call it. Do I need a prescription for the cure or is there something OTC to treat that condition? Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 Just a bit over 200 degrees F is key! Get spit on your finger, and then touch the surfaces being heated......it should "Sizzle" when your close. And yes.....the longer the breaker bar, the better. Mine is 20".....added to the wrench it's about 32"! Thanks!!! That info is going to help a lot!! Link to comment
chopperdan Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 I used a propane torch with mapp gas. It's alot faster than a heat gun. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 I used a propane torch with mapp gas. It's alot faster than a heat gun. I LIKE IT!! Link to comment
Pilgrim Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I used a propane torch with mapp gas. It's alot faster than a heat gun. I LIKE IT!! Aluminum undergoes no radical color change before it puddles. Pilgrim Link to comment
RFW Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Use a concentrated form of heat like a propane torch. Yes, Really. A heat gun heats everything ....slowly. A torch will heat the bolt faster, without trying to heat the entire casting. While it is still heating start working the bolt. Once it starts to move, stop heating and keep working it as it cools. Works every time for me! Bob. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Aluminum undergoes no radical color change before it puddles. Pilgrim If that isn't the voice of experience, I don't know what is. Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I wonder what the result is if you get the aluminum just below melting then apply that 10 ft extension.... Modern Art anyone? Stan Link to comment
chopperdan Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Aluminum melts @ 1220.666 °F, 660.37 °C A hand torch reaches a heating temperature around 1,050°F. I'd use caution but you'll be fine as long as you don't get crazy with it. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 14, 2005 Author Share Posted December 14, 2005 God I love playing with stuff that might blow up!! Torch Worked And it only took a 12 inch wrench! Hey thanks a LOT you guys Cameron Link to comment
Ken H. Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Ah that will buff right out... Onward! Link to comment
Art.. Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Aluminum melts @ 1220.666 °F, 660.37 °C A hand torch reaches a heating temperature around 1,050°F. I'd use caution but you'll be fine as long as you don't get crazy with it. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material melts at 3,700 F while the base-material aluminum underneath will melt at 1,200 F. Mapp gas flame tip temp is about 5300°F. Propane is 3500°F. Link to comment
Uggles Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 God I love playing with stuff that might blow up!! Did you check for fire sprinklers first??!! Link to comment
chopperdan Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I beg to differ. I you just look at the gas conparisons charts I would say yes. Like here But torch output is what matters. Like here None of this matters because the job is done and it worked. Link to comment
KMG_365 Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 God I love playing with stuff that might blow up!! Did you check for fire sprinklers first??!! That's sick! I had the exact same thought! Glad you got it out, BM! [only slightly related humerous aside] Urban legend at the Hotel del Coronado: A rabbi was back in the litchen giving a kosher blessing to the food at a very fancy orthodox banquet and somehow it involved waving some sort of fire around (I presume over his head? Perhaps someone who knows more about this could verify that). The Hotel del Coronado is the largest all wooden structure west of the Mississippi River, built in the 1880's, Thomas Edison supervised the installation of the electric lighting system, and it was one of the first buildings to have "Fire Sprinklers"! You can guess the rest of the story, but imagine how black and brackish the water standing in those ancient iron pipes must've been! Link to comment
Art.. Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 With the right blend of oxy and a # 7 Victor tip, propane, MAPP or Acetylene can be used to cut 5" thick steel. Been there / done that. Alu will cut like butter. I guess my point is that you should be careful. Maybe with that tip and that mix, 1050 is the max temp. But like Pilgrim alluded to, things can go very wrong very quickly. Link to comment
chopperdan Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Art, When did we go from comparing A hand torch reaches a heating temperature around 1,050°F. To an oxygenfuel torch ? Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 Well either way thanks chopperdan... Finally got back on the project and had to do the same routine to get the swing arm off. Took about 10 minutes to do both sides with no damage to anything...frickin beautiful! Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 Did you check for fire sprinklers first??!! Where would the fun be in that? Thanks for the historical aside Jamie...that was great! Link to comment
chopperdan Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Bmweerman, Glad to have been of assistance. Link to comment
USAF1 Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 So.....did the spit sizzle? Pat Link to comment
bmweerman Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 Yeah...thanks for bringing that up...I meant to thank you for that one...I love down and dirty tricks like that!!! And, as you said, that's just about the right temp Thanks again! Link to comment
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