wolcott Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Have a '98 r1100rt. Bought it this summer, and it had a slim cable tie-wrapped to the choke cable with duct tape wrapped around the end of this cable. I asked owner what the hell this duct tape wrapped cable is- and he tells me its a headlight modulator and he did not like it, so he wrapped duct tape around the sensor so it would not work. I took duct tape off sensor( I assume its the sensor-its a bulb set into a threaded brass socket/connector of some kind. I put light on high beam and modulator does not work. Has LH side fairing off this weekend to do battery terminal extensions for jump starting. Decided to take closer look. Went to install new Sylvania silverstar bulb.When I disconnected headlight plug, I noticed a circular electronic device that plugs into headlight plug, then the circular device snaps onto terminals of the H4 bulb. Looks like one of the Kisan headlight modulators. Any body have a copy of their manual and why it might not work. 1)Could I clean sensor bulb with something-it is now coated with duct tape residue? 2) Is there a sensitivity adjustment someplace on the circular modulator itself? I doubt if the whole modulator just went kaput- have one on my sportster for last 4 years (signal dynamics brand) and works great. Thanks in advance, Michael Link to comment
BobFV1 Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Wolcott - The sensitivity of the sensor is programmable through the device and your switchgear. This is from Kisan's site: Programmable Daylight Sensor If you turn the high beam on and then turn the ignition on three times quickly, the sequence is interpreted as an active command to change the sensitivity. Software version v.820D allows two settings- High and Low. Software version v.823A allows 8 linear steps between the high and low end. The daylight sensor has a low frequency filter to avoid false triggering. Please note that florescent lamps may not trigger the sensor - it needs constant incandescent light. pathBlazer uses a soft-switching technique. It throttles the current flow through the bulb filament, so that there's no "thermal shock" due to a sudden inrush of current, which can damage the bulb filament or shorten it's life considerably. This is far superior than maintaining a small voltage! Select hi-beam to modulate - as long as there's sufficient daylight. If you enter a tunnel or if it gets dark, it will stop the modulation of the hi-beam and stay ON steady. Select lo-beam to end modulation. All model installation booklets are available on their web site: http://www.kisantech.com/brochures/path-inst-manual.pdf If that doesn't work for you they are excellent at telephone support. Good luck - I think it's a great product - I wired mine to the high beam so I can switch it on and off. Link to comment
BobFV1 Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Ahh - Here's a link to a PDF of the full Kisan installation manual - good luck! http://www.kisantech.com/brochures/path-inst-manual.pdf Link to comment
Chrish1234 Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Make sure the sensor is clean and there is plenty of light reaching it. If it's even under the slightest shadow it won't begin to modulate. Better yet, cut off the photosensor and put a manual, single pole switch in it's place. Now you can have the high beam or modulation, whichever you choose. Chris Link to comment
alanz Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Keep in mind that having a photosensor is part of the Federal regulation. Having a switch to turn off the modulator via the sensor makes great sense, but removing the sensor is not something that I'd recommend at all. The sensor is there so that the light does not modulate indadvertantly at low light levels. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Keep in mind that having a photosensor is part of the Federal regulation. Having a switch to turn off the modulator via the sensor makes great sense, but removing the sensor is not something that I'd recommend at all. The sensor is there so that the light does not modulate indadvertantly at low light levels. Why not add a switch in addition too the sensor? That way you could turn the modulation off when you didn't want it, and still retain the modulation off at dusk sensor feature. Link to comment
alanz Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Ken H, That's exactly what I was suggesting. It would give the most flexibility. What I was cautioning about was an approach made by someone else who advocated removing the sensor entirely. Link to comment
Chrish1234 Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 What I was cautioning about was an approach made by someone else who advocated removing the sensor entirely. That was me I didn't want the photosensor to determine when the unit would modulate or not. I was not impressed with the way their photsensor worked and placement seem to be very critical to it's function. I contacted Kisan and they told me that Federal law required them to manufacture the unit with a photosensor, but it was legal for the end user to convert it to a manual switch. I'm very selective about where and when I use the modulation, so I suppose the manual switch suits my needs. Regards, Chris Link to comment
alanz Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Chris, I understand what Kisan is saying, but the fact of the matter is that the law states that the device must have a sensor in place. Kisan is saying is that they have to manufacture according to the law, but you are free to break the law < s > The full spec for headlight modulators is under section S7.9.4 Headlight modulator statue It's unlikely that you'll get a ticket for not having a sensor, but for the actual statute it says (S7.9.4.1(f)): (f) The system shall include a sensor mounted with the axis of its sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation shall cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament light operating at 3000° Kelvin is either less than 270 lux (25 foot-candles) of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than 60 lux (5.6 foot-candles) of reflected light for downward pointing sensors. The light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R–27) is placed at ground level to simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Get off the law thing, it only applies to manufacturers. Once you buy it, you are free to operate it any way you want. Just don't build one and offer it for sale. Link to comment
alanz Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 I honestly don't know why you think the law only applies to manufacturers. For example, for the past 20 years or so manufacturers have to build a bike with headlights and taillights. If you want to ride one of these bikes on the street, you must use the lights, or risk a ticket. But you are absolutely correct, you are free to ignore any law at any time if you don't think the law applies to you. The authorities might just disagree < s > Link to comment
trptdaddy Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 I removed the tags off my mattress. David Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Unless you own a bike made before the law was enacted. The law still applies to the manufacture of the device not the installation. There is no law stating it must work or that you cannot disable it. Besides I would never have one of the useless things on my bike. As soon as you start to depend on gadgets like that for your safety your goose is cooked anyway. Link to comment
Mike Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 As soon as you start to depend on gadgets like that for your safety your goose is cooked anyway. Au contraire, Ed. I use 'em and I am therefore invulnerable. Link to comment
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